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Cobra2572

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About Cobra2572

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    2001 Cobra convertible. 1971 Mach 1 351 C 4V 4 speed

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  • Location
    Lynchburg, VA
  • Region
    Southeast

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  • Sex
    Undisclosed

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  1. It may also be useful to point out that a 2 stage air compressor is much preferable over a single stage.
  2. Mike, I would suggest buying the biggest air compressor you can afford. 5-7 HP, definitely a cast iron pump, preferably an 80 gallon tank, and at least 15-20 CFM. If you are going to do any sandblasting you will need a decent sized air compressor to run one properly. I had a Dayton Speedair for a lot of years and a Quincy that could handle about anything. Ingersoll Rand also makes a quality air compressor. After that you can select a variety of air tools to fit your need. A set of torches and a mig welder can also be invaluable for restoration. Good luck. Buying tools is a lot of fun.
  3. I would do the body work. Make sure the primer is sanded well back off any unscuffed paint. I would then DA with 320 and use a good scuff pad to get into the corners and crevices that will require good adhesion to make sure the new paint sticks. These areas are usually the first to flake off. I would then use a good sealer to get the car into one color, then paint with base/clear. You could use single stage paint if you have a dirt free environment but base clear gives the best finish. If it is indeed factory paint I wouldn't expect any lifting or other adverse reaction. The sealer should help with any issues like that. Good luck. Dave
  4. Pegleg, Unless I missed it, a couple of your questions were not answered. The original paint in 1971 was likely a dispersion lacquer but at best may have been a single stage enamel. Both types of paint are probably still available although I would stay away from lacquer even though it's probably the cheapest finish. Single stage enamel (with a urethane hardener) is an okay choice and would be able to be buffed (orange peel, contamination) since in your case, there's no metallic to disturb. Urethane basecoat/clearcoat systems are the most expensive but are the most durable. The clearcoat allows for good buffability and blocks UV rays that can fade the color. I'm not sure of the EPA rules in the UK but most paint here is solvent based. California may be the only state that requires waterborne systems. I've been away from the automotive painting scene for a while so there may be other options and certainly other opinions. My car is also Grabber Lime and I will be using base/clear for the final finish. Good luck. Dave
  5. If Don does not have them get in touch I think I know where some are here in N.C.. He will ship anywhere but requires a Postal Money order or cash no credit card, no PayPal no cashiers checks. The picture is one he probably had 8. PM me if you need contact info. David He only has 7 now.
  6. The one thing that I did question but did not dispute (intuition tells me that this would be a bad idea while standing at a DMV window) was the weight. The clerk looked it up and I was guessing in the neighborhood of 3600-3700#. She tells me it's 2750 or something like that. I figure she mixed it up with a Mustang ll or they compensated for the missing sheet metal consumed by rust.
  7. The drama is over. I received a bill of sale from the previous owner and made the trip back to the DMV. I had to have insurance on the car whether driven or not (or lie about it on the checklist or pay a no insurance waiver fee) so I insured the car on Monday, transferred the title Tuesday morning and cancelled the insurance when I got home.
  8. My first new car was 1972 Plymouth Scamp 2 door hardtop with a 318 automatic. Black on black with a vinyl top. It stickered for about $3200 and I bought for about $2950. Then I saw the movie "Vanishing Point" and went and ordered a 1973 Dodge Challenger 340 4 speed. Oddly, in 73 the 440 was only available in the Cuda if I remember correctly. Years later I bought a Plum Crazy 69 Dart with a built 440. My in-laws owned a Chrysler-Plymouth-Desoto dealership so I have a long history with Mopars. I bough a 67 GTX 440 Super Commando from them when I was a senior in high school. Hard to imagine a 17 year old kid driving that to school these days.
  9. I'm not sure what price you are considering for your car but according to the Virginia DMV my disassembled, rusty 71 Mach l has an average NADA retail value of $39,500. At least that's what they wanted me to pay taxes on without a bill of sale. Fortunately my wife works for a university so my kids got free tuition.
  10. I spent most of my life in OH and bought and sold a lot of cars and never was asked for a bill of sale (that I can recall). It must be the delta between my reported purchase price and the perceived value that generated the DMV request.
  11. I finally had an opportunity to get to the DMV to transfer the NC title from the previous owner into a VA title in my name. The title was properly filled out and notarized. I was informed that I also needed a bill of sale with purchase price or...I could pay taxes on the NADA average value. See picture below for DMV letter and value. I believe I will get a bill of sale.
  12. I have a set of metwrenches that can go either way. So if I find a Prius motor at the local flea market, I'm ready. I have used Dave's "swinging" metric wrenches that can go either way and hate them... Sorry Dave.::thumb:: I prefer the term "bimetric wrenches.
  13. That's not a bad idea Don. The trunk floor is one of the few areas that might actually support something over 4 pounds without falling out on the road. Would that make your car an import and require metric wrenches? I have a set of metwrenches that can go either way. So if I find a Prius motor at the local flea market, I'm ready.
  14. Thanks Jason. Never thought of that one. Its helpful information like that that keeps me coming back to this sight.
  15. That's not a bad idea Don. The trunk floor is one of the few areas that might actually support something over 4 pounds without falling out on the road.
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