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    Owner of Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering. Maker of suspension, chassis and steering parts for all vintage mustangs. Have 65 FB mustang fully restomodded with 331 and T5z drivetrain


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    Anaheim Hills, CA
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  1. It's an evolution of design. There are vintage and modern vehicles that have the two parts integrated into one part and that is where the inspiration came from. Weight is one advantage. It is lighter than the two separate parts which means better response time for the suspension. For a street car that is not typically an issue but for a track car it can be important. Cost is another advantage. One part can be designed and built which reduces cost. Things can be optimized when you combine them together also
  2. I now have Integrated Strut Arms for 71-73 Mustang (fits 67-73 Mustangs and a bunch more Ford and Mercury vehicles). They combine the lower control arm and strut rod into one heavy duty high performance and fully adjustable product. I built a 65-66 Mustang version last year and have finally gotten the 67+ version ready to go. Here is a link: 1967+ Integrated Strut Arms
  3. I haven't done any more with it. It would require some more measurements before I could make one. I have been busy launching a new product...Integrated Strut Arms which consolidated lower control arms with strut rods in one unit. I've got them on sale for 65-66 Mustang and 62-65 Falcon/Comet. I'm working on a version that will fit later mustangs, mavericks, comets, fairlanes, torinos, etc and hope to have it on sale soon. The link to the 65-66 version is here: Integrated Strut Arms
  4. I built a prototype "Strut Arm" a while back as some of you may know. Got around to building a second prototype Strut Arm and installed the prototypes on the '65. Here is a link to a write up with pics. So far they have worked out very well. I know its a '65 and not a '71-'73, but when I get these into production, I'll be working on the design for later models that will fit '71-'73. Combined LCA and Strut Rod units- road test success
  5. I got asked by a customer about roller spring perches of which I had to respond that I don't currently make them. His gripe about existing roller perches is that they make the car sit up higher in the front. Cobra Automotive makes a nice set of bushed spring perches using oil impregnated bronze bushings that probably don't increase ride height...it's a nice clean design, but they go for $339. :-/ So...i've come up with a design that won't change the ride height. I'm using COM-12 3/4" Teflon lined spherical bearings with chrome moly bearing cups and a 3/4" shaft...probably 4130 chrome moly. The spherical bearings are load rated for at least 20,000 lbs each or 10x the load that the roller bearings are rated for and they are PTFE lined for self-lubrication. Here are some pics of a prototype that I hacked up to show what they look like. Still have some work to do on these and some testing. I haven't settled on a price yet, but they will be competitive with the roller spring perches out there now, but much higher load rating and no change in ride height.
  6. Thanks. My wife would do this :@ if I had that clip laying in the front yard.
  7. Here is a diagram of the dimensions I took from a car. Could someone verify these and provide the dimensions that I don't have shown with a ? 71-73 mustang dimensions.pdf
  8. I went to the Fabulous Fords Forever show in April and I got some measurements from an accommodating owner. It's not going to be a symmetrical piece as you guys probably know. The drivers side mounting holes on the firewall are further back than the passenger side and the two holes on that side are not inline either. I'll post a dimensional diagram later and hopefully someone can verify my measurements.
  9. Hot roll and cold roll is stronger than that. Hot roll A36 has 36,000 psi yield strength and cold roll 1018 has 54,000 psi yield strength. These are minimums and they tend to be stronger than minimum requirements. DOM tube has 72,000 psi minimum yield strength but I was looking at one of the Material Test Data Sheets for some DOM tube I bought and the batch had yield strength in the 90,000 psi range...::thumb:: This brace can be made to be very strong with these materials. Chrome moly 4130 is a little weaker than DOM in its normalized state. I've talked to the old timer welders at the industrial supply store I go to and they say to use ERS70-2 wire and heat the 4130 chrome moly tube to take the chill out if it before welding. I have not used chrome moly for anything yet...haven't needed to. 4340 is strong but more difficult to weld and requires pre-heat, post-heat, etc.
  10. The rod end is a self lubricating teflon lined rod end. The turnbuckle is greased with silver anti-sieze compound when it is assembled. The hardware from the turnbuckle forward is essentially the same hardware that is used in our adjustable strut rods. Years ago, I had TCP adjustable strut rods on my personal car and I remember them seizing up on me after less than a year. I am always sure to use anti-sieze on threaded joints from that experience.
  11. The following link goes to a blog post I made on our website today. I've finally completed a prototype of combined LCA and strut rod. I'm struggling with the name so if you have suggestions i'd like to hear about it. It's been about 9 months since I first thought about this product. I vacillated back and forth with the design, but this one looks like a winner. There a still a few things to work out, but it's close. I'm hoping that we go into production in July. The blog is about the 65/66 Mustang version, but there will be a version that will fit later Mustangs as well. There are similar products out there but my price will not be anywhere as high...probably in the $475 per pair range. If you try to buy aftermarket strut rods and LCAs separately, you'll pay more...even for our stuff and I try to keep our prices reasonable let alone other vendors who are higher. I'd like to hear your feedback! PTP Engineering Link New Product Blog Post
  12. Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering now offers Adjustable Lower Control Arms for your 1970-1977 Maverick or Comet. We have taken new Moog LCAs and replaced the small end with a teflon lined self-lubricating high strength rod end. We also boxed the bottom of the LCA for added strength. Please visit the link below for more information. Thanks PTP Engineering - 1970-1977 Adjustable Lower Control Arms OK...ignore the 1970-1977 Maverick/Comet comments and insert 1971 to 1973 Mustang... 1971-1973 Mustang Adjustable Lower Control Arms
  13. Yes they can and you have a good idea. All we need to get this going is get a car to Anaheim California for one afternoon. I promise i'll give it back when i'm done...:whistling: But really, I remember when I put a one piece export brace on a 65 FB...had to use a jack to spread out the shock towers about 3/16" to get it to fit. Franks problem with the MPG unit is that it has movable rod ends at all 3 corners so there can be shock tower and body flex. One piece export/monte carlo bar that fits all will be a challenge. You would have a few diff ways to go (these are just brainstorming ideas...i'll just throw them out there): Drill holes oversize and use grade 8 hardware to install it and rely on clamping force to hold the bar in place. 5/16 UNF bolts have over 5000 lbs of clamping force and 3 at each shock tower would be pretty solid. But, you can overdrill so much before it gets sloppy. Make the V to the shock towers solid and the cross bar adjustable. If the V is solid and rigid, the heim joints on the cross bar are only going to see tensile or compression loads so there shouldn't be any movement of the shock towers even if some of the linkage (the cross bar) has more degrees of freedom. Use solid rod ends like these, and have each of the 3 legs be adjustable. Once the unit is adjusted, torque the rod end bolts to hold it all in place and to make it rigid. A 1/2" grade 8 bolt has over 10,000 lbs of clamping force when torqued to spec. I like the solid rod end idea actually...it allows for a lot of adjustment. You could probably "fix" the MPG unit by replacing the existing rod ends with solid ones if the existing hardware is strong enough to provide good clamping force. One of the biggest challenges is to get the dimensions correct. Not only is there the distance from the shock towers to the firewall, but the shock towers are at a lower plane and it looks like they angle in a bit. You almost need to make up some plates for all 3 corners, install them on a golden car and then weld in some braces to connect them all together and then remove the part from the car and use it to build a jig.
  14. We have reasonably priced complete adjustable strut rods and new for 2016 we have DIY adjustable strut rod kits for those who want a cost effective DIY kit where you can modify you old strut rods and we supply everything else. Complete instructions are provided. We are replenishing stock and will have more of these for sale later this month. The LCA brackets for the complete strut rods look a little different now than the pic on the website. We have the LCA brackets precision laser cut now. Adjustable Strut Rods and DIY Kits
  15. I could make you a new set of strut rod brackets that have the steering stop further out to stop that problem. How much gap between the stop and the spindle when you crank it all the way right and left? Not the best solution, but you could grind down the nose of those GW uppers without compromising them but then you'd have to re-powder coat them or paint the exposed metal. There isn't a lot that needs to be removed. Looks like the tubes are open at the end in one pic but not open in the other pic. The nose of the uppers don't look like they follow the contour of the ball joint plate...aftermarket uppers should have the nose of the uppers angle back more than that. If and when I get around to it, i'll design some uppers that won't have that problem.
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