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cobra3073

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Everything posted by cobra3073

  1. This started off as a 302 2V - 3 Speed Grande Original Color, but now a BBF, C6, 4:11 Traction Lok 472 CID (429 + 460 Crank + .060 bore), Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam, Intake, 850CFM Holley ~BT
  2. Dan, As others have stated or inferred, it really doesn't matter whether your 351C is a 2V, 4V, CJ, HO or Boss unless you are shooting for or desire something rare and even that has qualifiers. ALL 351Cs can be built to perform at the equivalent (or better) level of any of the other 351C engines produced by the factories. It just mean swapping out a few parts and maybe a bit of machining. Based on your previous posts (you never actually introduced yourself or stated definitely what you REALLY want out of your car), I understand you are essentially looking for a daily driver with a bit of a "wow" factor. You REALLY need to be honest with yourself and decide what you can live with (or not live with) as it relates to your Mustang. Modifying any car usually means compromising, just as the factories do when they build cars for the masses. That is why our cars have so many different options and/or styles. If the car is still at the machine shop and you have not yet ordered (or had them order) the parts for the apparent rebuild, you need to STOP and decide what your REALLY want. Believe me, we here on the Site can help lead you in the "right" direction; you just need to give us something concrete to work with as to your true desires for the Mustang. Many of us have a heck of a lot of experience in making changes for different desired results. ~BT
  3. Mustangsally, Glad you decided to "officially" join us! I think I have the original "twin" to your car, except my yellow/black '73 Q-Code came with a C6. Right now, it is undergoing a transplant to a 545 (but that is another story that is chronicled elsewhere here on the Site). Seeing your car has given me an idea, specifically that I think I am going to go "BLACK" for my paint; that is a GORGEOUS paint job you have on your car...THANKS for sharing and WELCOME! ~BT
  4. Welcome aboard, Kevin! As the original owner of a '73 Mach 1 that I have and continue to restomod, I look forward to reading of your "journey" with your '73 Mach 1. Please take your time and go through the different forums...there REALLY is a heck of a lot of GREAT information here that will surely assist you as you work on your car. I think you will also find that you could not ask for a greater group of folks to interact with you relative to our hobby. Again, WELCOME to the site! ~BT
  5. Barry, You are "on it!" Great decision and work. ~BT
  6. March 28, 2018 - Update As noted in a post in another section on the site, I am currently working a couple of issues relative to the stock shifter and valve body. To recap: My current intent is to use a stock Ford shifter but since I am using a Broader transmission with the full manual valve body, there are potential issues with missing gears when shifting due to the lack of lockouts. I am researching information relative to my options and am thinking about making some alterations to the stock shifter's detents or maybe going to an after-market shifter. I really don't want to go to a cable type shifter but right now ALL options are on the table. Another potential "opportunity" has to do with hood clearance. The car currently has a full metal Boss 429-type hood scoop that I had grafted into the car when I was stationed in the Republic of the Philippines. This is a hand made one-of-a-kind deal that I really would like to keep but am not sure the scoop will be tall enough to clear the Trick Flow Street Intake, a 1" HVH spacer, the Holley HP 1000 carburetor along with the @ 3 1/2" Ford Racing Air Cleaner...it is going to be close. I may have to take an extra hood I have access to and cut it up to install a fiberglass Boss 429 hood. As y'all might have gathered, I love the look of the Boss 429 hood scoop on our cars. LOL I will post some more pictures after I clean up the engine bay a bit...it is really getting FULL. ~BT
  7. I have been using an aftermarket ratchet shifter on my car with a full manual reverse pattern valve body for 15 years. I don't know why you would want to try without a ratchet shifter. You will slip it into the next gear to easily with the stock shifter. I agree. I have been using an aftermarket B&M ratchet shifter in my car for 13 years or more. It has never missed a beat. My valve body was also built by Broader. They are good guys and know their stuff. It would be very hard to not miss a gear or accidently go into N/R when shifting fast or hard with the stock shifter. I am using a B&M Star shifter in my car. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-80675?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-b-m&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp4uAvdaO2gIVB7bACh18DgPjEAQYASABEgKlo_D_BwE I am using the stock long console, but I did modify the cover plate and hole to look a little nicer. I think it turned out pretty good. Kevin, THAT does look really nice! Do you have the Reverse Valve Body? Refresh my memory please...what are the specs on your engine/transmission? Thanks! ~BT
  8. Thanks Randy! ...not only for the support you provide to members on THIS site but for what you have done across the "Net." Your positive reputation is obviously well deserved. ~BT
  9. Very nice indeed, David! BTW, according to my references, the 332 was available (and used) in the '59. ~BT
  10. Yes, those OE parts were definitely difficult to source but I actually have sources now for the individual parts. Bobby (Competition Carburetors in NV) who did the modifications on my 1000HP carburetor advised against using a ratchet shifter with the manual valve body. Did you have any major issues using the ratchet shifter when you had the manual valve body? As an aside, I was looking at changing the manual valve body out but unfortunately I purchased the transmission (new) from a forum member on the 460 Ford forum years ago who had gotten it from Broader and Broader is unable to give me specifics on whether the valve body is a "regular" manual one or has a reverse pattern without tearing into it. Jay at Broader also advised that just swapping out the valve body for an automatic one would entail tearing into the transmission as there are a number of parts he removes when building the full manual valve bodied transmission that would need to be replaced, i.e., governor, tubes, modulator, etc., so I might just pressed on with what I have. By the way, are you (or others reading this post) using an after market shifter, now)? If so, which one and are you also using the original Mustang console? Thanks! ~BT I have been using an aftermarket ratchet shifter on my car with a full manual reverse pattern valve body for 15 years. I don't know why you would want to try without a ratchet shifter. You will slip it into the next gear to easily with the stock shifter. Which shifter are you using? ...and Yes, I realize one can slip the transmission easily into the next gear with the stock shifter which is why I am trying to do my due diligence. I have come to understand from one of the transmission "gurus"/racers on another site that the stock shifter works great with the reverse pattern valve body since "D" becomes 1st gear and you simply pull down as you go through the other two forward gears. I also understand that you can put a weld at the detent between "neutral" and "Reverse' which will act sort of like a lockout or stop. Please keep the observations coming y'all. ~BT
  11. That is ABSOLUTELY great that you two members were able to get together on this Mustang...GREAT story from both of you. Just shows you can NEVER give up hope and that stuff out here on the "Net" last for a long time. To think that your initial search on here was nearly two years ago and along come a new member who was doing a search to try and find the owner of a car his wife purchase is REALLY something. I, for one, would like to read of the "end" to this story to determine which of you decide to keep the Mustang. Good Stuff!! ~BT
  12. I believe the attached link shows what you are looking for :). https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/12950-Pressure-Line-Outlet-Tube-Assembly-Power-Steering-Used-1971-1973-Mercury-Cougar-/-1971-1973-Ford-Mustang.html ~BT
  13. Yes, those OE parts were definitely difficult to source but I actually have sources now for the individual parts. Bobby (Competition Carburetors in NV) who did the modifications on my 1000HP carburetor advised against using a ratchet shifter with the manual valve body. Did you have any major issues using the ratchet shifter when you had the manual valve body? As an aside, I was looking at changing the manual valve body out but unfortunately I purchased the transmission (new) from a forum member on the 460 Ford forum years ago who had gotten it from Broader and Broader is unable to give me specifics on whether the valve body is a "regular" manual one or has a reverse pattern without tearing into it. Jay at Broader also advised that just swapping out the valve body for an automatic one would entail tearing into the transmission as there are a number of parts he removes when building the full manual valve bodied transmission that would need to be replaced, i.e., governor, tubes, modulator, etc., so I might just pressed on with what I have. By the way, are you (or others reading this post) using an after market shifter, now)? If so, which one and are you also using the original Mustang console? Thanks! ~BT
  14. I place an order for those pistons at Rockauto (+0.020"). Then I need rings, also +0.020 I guess? SEALED POWER E251KC Full Set Yes, the rings you need should be .020 oversized. However the part number you cite (E251KC) appears to be standard size. You will need Seal Power E251K20, per my research. ~BT
  15. By the way, based on your desire to continue with the stock set-up, the information Hemikiller gave you was "SPOT ON." Just order the stock replacement pistons for a '73 351C 4V motor. If it was me, and the block HAS to be bored, I would go for the .020 oversized if I could find the pistons. As someone else has noted, the 351C block should not be bored more than .040 over. Going to .020 over would give you a couple more possible rebuild options without going to sleeves in the block. That having been said, .030 over pistons are probably more readily available.
  16. According to that picture, the block casting number is "D2AE-CA" not D0AE-CA and it was built on January 11, 1973. So, that would appear to be a 351CJ block (based on the 4 bolt mains that you referred to in an earlier post) and it would have had the open chamber heads. ~BT
  17. My apologies Nik...I did not mean to hijack your thread. I put in my vote...I personally like the Boss 429 Scoop but as to your question, I would say Yes. ~BT
  18. Yeah Chuck, I knew that would bring out a comment or two lollerz ! It boggles my mind how many L88-type hood scoops there are out there of different heights while we are limited on what is available for our community. I tell you, I SINCERELY miss being overseas where I had guys in my shop who could craft metal by hand (at a reasonable rate). Makes me wish I had spent some time in my youth learning how to massage metal. ~BT
  19. Bringing this one back up as I proceed with my 545 install. I currently have a hand-built metal scoop grafted into my '73 Mach 1 hood. This scoop was tall enough for the old 428SCJ with a DOVE Single plane intake utilizing two stacked air cleaner elements, without any problems. y'all might recall I also have a 472 (429 with 460 crank bored .060) in my '73 Grande using a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake without any fitment issues relative to the hood while using a stock NACA hood. While I have not yet test fitted my current NACA modified hood yet on the 545 application, I am thinking it might not "cut the mustard as I might need another inch or so. Any of you seen any NACA hoods utilizing the Boss 429 scoop versus the standard coupe/convertible hood. I found a vendor who can supply a fiberglass Boss 429 scoop that is 4" at the front which might work if my current hood does not clear. If go that route, I will probably store my current hood and just order another one and cut it up as appropriate. If this doesn't cut it, I might have to go to an L88 ( :angel:) type hood. Any thoughts? ~BT
  20. As some of you may recall, I have installed a 706HP/736Tq 545 CI motor in my '73 Mustang. I have also installed a Broader 1000HP C6 and am currently trying to work all the linkage issues associated with using a stock shifter. I purchased the transmission several years ago and it currently has a manual valve body. The car most recently had a 428SCj/Toploader combination and quite frankly I like the idea of controlling the shifts without having to deal with a clutch. The manual valve body approach with the C6 appeals to me on some levels. Question for you racers or modifyers: Are any of you running a manual valve body with the stock shifter? If so, how do you like it on the street? Any MAJOR problems with the lack of "lock out" for a given gear? Since the Broader transmission did not have the transmission shift lever installed (there are so many different applications and Broader noted that most folks run after market cables), I have had to find a source for all of the different C6 linkage parts. This was a chore but I have been able to do so and would hate to NOT use the stock shifter, at this point. I have dropped the pan and have the valve body out right now in order to install the stock shift lever, so this would be a good time to change the manual valve body if I decide not to use it. Any inputs would be appreciated. BT
  21. Yes Rackerm, would make it sorta like that one; I just got to convince the First Lady to let me stripe it...so far she is not budging. She told me I can do what I want to with the two '73s and the 2003 Marauder but she likes the '69 as it is now. She has been talking about driving it to church, although she says it is a bit "loud." lollerz BT
  22. Manu, While it really does not matter as to the year of the block, you still might want to verify the casting date,which is located under the block casting number. As others have stated or inferred, the D0AE-C casting number seems to be all wrong for a '73 Mustang. That having been said, ALL 351C blocks are essentially the same once you get away from 2 bolt versus 4 bolt main caps; but it should be good to know exactly what you have ...my $.02. BT
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