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Everything posted by woodsnake

  1. Thanks for that info- I am in the middle of getting my 68 on the road again, (ruined clutch cable after motor swap) doing the initial start on the rebuilt engine in my 69 (it has been primed a couple of times, also having clutch issues, waiting to start (after getting assembled in 2012) and getting my 67 emptied out for its ride to the sheet metal guy. Oh, and I have a 302 block going to the machine shop tomorrow... The guy doing the sheet metal on the 67 likes the fast back, that may work out to my advantage.
  2. Thanks, no I was not aware. A lot has happened since I bought the car, a LOT. I know it is usually better to keep one thread going, rather than 10 questions about the same thing.
  3. Panel bond may be an acceptable option. I was just going to post a new thread on this topic, as I had a body guy out last night to look at this. I came into a little money, and want to accomplish as much as I can, without just pissing it all away. I am at that 'now or never' moment in life, and not getting any younger.
  4. Thank you again, for the pictures, and insight! While the car is growing on me, this task is more than I want to undertake with what I already have going on at the moment. I will look harder at finding the fault under the hood, before I take the whole thing apart.
  5. Thank you so much for the info and pictures! I had no idea it was THIS involved! Would it be possible, to just separate the halves of the block? When I had battery power hooked up, I noticed the attempt to smoke on the engine bay side of the firewall.. I'm hoping it was only chaffed through the bulkhead, and could be repaired without (NOW!) having to remove the entire thing.. Thanks again, that is some great info!
  6. Slowly but surely, progress does get made....My 71, will now crank with the key, however, I have a short some where in the harness, near the fuse panel, as the last time I had 12V under the dash, I could see smoke trying to get out of the harness. I have a few extra days off, and want to remove the fuse panel, and wiring forward into the engine bay area.. Any tips on getting this accomplished? Thanks!
  7. If it isn't too much trouble, yes I could use some shots of the entire harness, on both ends where possible...My harness is crap, at best..
  8. Midlife= Thanks for your response! It would appear then, that I in fact do not have the NSS from the trans, in the correct female plug. I have repaired the four pin connector that the NSS is in, but if that isn't the correct spot, what should go there? Or what other lead am I missing for that connector? The alternator harness is also missing from this car.....I don't think I will buy another mustang in this condition...I just am not as familiar with them as a Cougar, of an earlier vintage. Or a postal LLV. I am learning those pretty well now...
  9. Here is the plug I was referring to.. I would like to replace the main harness, from the fuse panel forward into the engine bay..The battery fuse had popped, and that is the single biggest reason I had the no crank. Unless I now have the 4 pin from the trans in the wrong plug in?? And, what are the 'bullet' ends for here? and the other 4 pin female plug?
  10. I'd be interested in a wiring harness, fuse panel forward into the engine bay, for a 71 if you have one.. Text me, rather than gamble on my getting the notice- 516-655-3360
  11. By any chance, do you have a picture of the other end of the connector for the alternator, that goes into the harness?
  12. Thanks for posting that picture! I did find the majority of my problem..A couple of things..Corroded fuse in the fuse panel, and I found that the 4 pin connector block that the neutral safety switch goes into has been semi stripped, causing intermittent contact..I have to now repair those almost but not quite broken wires. However, I was able to make the engine turn over now by turning the key!! Pretty big day here in Colorado!
  13. Brief update- Put the front end up on jack stands, and got under the car. I adjusted the NS switch, so that in park, the drill bit fits through the hole. Before I made this adjustment, there was still no attempt for the starter to engage, when I was turning the key. On a stock 71 Mustang, is there a rod, (other than the ignition rack) that is supposed to be a player in this set up?? I noticed a protrusion, or mounting location on the steering column tube, that looks like it should do something, and I just am not that familiar with FOMOCO products after the 71 model year to identify it.
  14. Thanks, I have the strut braces in the trunk. I had planned on taking the motorcycle up to the mountain today, but the threat of rain and cooler temps tells me today will be a car day!!
  15. I made it through about ten pages searching, and didn't find what I'm looking for.. So here is where I'm at. I bought my car with out an engine or trans, back in 2011. I had enough small block stuff laying around I thought it might do a "Christine" and heal itself....I was wrong. So I pulled an engine out of an 84 F-150, and found a C4 with the correct shifter linkage. Put a bunch of new parts in the 5.0, new oil pump timing gear set, etc. No "performance" parts, no new cam. I installed a duraspark ignition set up, with a new 600 Holley on an Edelbrock intake. I had a set of headers laying around, and so I threw them on to finish it up. I started the car for about a minute, just to make sure it would run. Now, all these years later, I am back on it. Since the work was originally done, I also replaced the missing ignition lock and tumbler set. When I try to start the car with the key, I get nothing. The engine will "try" and start by jumping the solenoid and dumping some gas in the carb, but the battery cables get hot fairly quick. Is there a switch, at the bottom of the steering column that could be a player? I have NOT tried to start it in neutral yet. I only had an hour or two of daylight yesterday when all this happened. Thoughts?
  16. As you already have the assembly out of the car, maybe there is a shop locally that can set it up for you? I did the ring and pinion in my 69 Cougar while I was going to tech school, but they had all the tools needed. For the cost of all the parts involved, it may save you some money just having them done, so all you need to do is install the pumpkin again...
  17. I have the same problem on my 69 Cougar, the alternator is just gross looking, now that the rebuilt engine is in the bay. I haven't decided if I just want to buy a new one, or try and use carb cleaner, paint thinner, or something else. I think as long as it doesn't get submerged and soaked, almost anything would be OK. Even simple green or some other cleaner, brushed onto the grimy spots....
  18. I need front grill stuff, got anything? Fasteners, wiring clippy deals, etc...
  19. Well, I had some time last weekend, and went down to work on my stuff. I got my 68 Cougar titled and on the road, and my motorcycle again too!! I looked at the VIN on the mustang, but didn't have tome to move a fender out of the way. The dash says "1971" to me...How hard would it be to put on 71 bumper mounts? I know, plus 71 fenders...
  20. So, my 71 mustang has 73 fenders on it?? Fuuuuck.
  21. Other than drilling holes for steam, I didn't make any changes to the block for the heads. HOWEVER, since you asked, I don't know if I would recommend Trick Flow to anybody. Here is why. I bought my heads while I was on deployment over seas, and then sat on them for a few years, until I was ready to build the motor. From the factory, the heads had a bad valve in them, and even though they were still brand new, in the bags in the box, no warranty was offered to me. Also, when you are using trick flow heads, they require a few more considerations than other, in line heads. Had I known then, what I know now, I would have gotten the next step up, and given myself better options. Or just stuck with an Edelbrock head. I see a lot of projects coming together this year for me!
  22. The car has the standard 71 grill, I think. It is a plain Jane car, 2V 302 from the factory. I guess I will have to go get a better inventory of what is still with the car! I think my plan is to make look like the Mach, as it already has the hood, and holes drilled in the trunk for the spoiler. While it is true the car is growing on me greatly, I am now in a position to buy my own house, and I need my money back out of the Mustang to help with that purchase. I will try and get some better info, and then check back with what I need. There is a guy on Facebook who goes by Ford Mac in Colorado Springs. I'm sure he has everything I need, but I think he wants a bit much for his stuff. I guess not really, if you are in the business, but I am still in at the hobby level.
  23. Looking for misc. parts for my 71 in the greater Denver, Co. Metro area. I am looking for mostly very small parts, fasteners, etc for the grill area. Perhaps interior parts, and maybe suspension pieces. I have a grill for my car, but I don't have think I have everything I need to put the car back together.
  24. Finally some news worth reporting! I have finally been able to get a transfer back to Colorado!!!!! I am now living in Denver, and have been back to look at where I left off with my fleet of projects. Are there any members in the greater Denver metro area that may have parts for sale? I am greatly looking forward to getting the car road worthy! I have had far too long of a break in the repairs, and now I have to remember where I was at with the Mustang, the 67 Cougar, and my 69 Cougar as well....
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