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    1973 Mustang 351C-4V 4BBL 4 SPEED CONVERTIBLE White


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digithead's Achievements

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  1. Man, so last spring I opened the door and rolled out my 73 with no ENGINE even in it, and started painting engine bay. This spring, newly rebuilt motor in there, I opened the doors, charged battery, pumped it twice, and fired right up and idle perfect! What a change 1 year can make. Heres hoping your convertible summer is a good one!!! In Upstate NY summer is short so you cant miss a month with engine problems etc.
  2. man that screams fuel problems to me. Do you have gauge to check fuel pump pressure? If not can you just have it pump into a coffee can and check it? In between those short parts were you pumping it? If so, then it may be bad carb and it was just running off short squirts from accelerator pump?
  3. Thanks guys. Yes, I'm at that peace of mind point where I want to drive it and summers are short. I cant have it down a month. Kinda stupid to have $30K in the thing and a wonky tranny. I always wanted a good burn out machine. So with wonky third it was tough going to burn in second and get to third. LOL I'd be burning in second then taking 25 seconds to get 3rd it sucked big time! The dude who built runs a class shop. Even has a cool dyno tester for trannys that has big electric motor to drive the inout shaft. Has a PC hooked up. THats where I came in helping him keep this old tester alive. So we trust each other. Man its such a joy to shift now. He moved some parts around and welded something custom not sure what, but the pushing pressure is lighter now and smoother and move even over the stroke of the pedal. Damn clutch pushed pretty hard before him and people didnt like to drive it.
  4. Pretty pumped to have my 73 Vert outta the garage in Upstate NY where the snow never stops LOL. So I have done most everything to this car but the tranny. I've never had one apart and dont feel like learning the hard way. One of my customers is a good local Transmission place (over 40+ years). I made appointment for first thing in April so I'd have car for whole short summer. Took about 10 days to pull it. He said it was very gunked up inside and had some hack work done years ago. 3rd and reverse were really hard to shift into and out of. Came back just perfect. Man this guy does nice work. Shifts like a brand new car now! He thought it would run 1100 dollars and it was 1600. He said it was a lot more labor to get apart. Something about set screws that are worn off. He had to cut a shifting fork with plasma cutter then replace it after. In any case, since the whole car is so nice , I had no choice but do the tranny too. LAst year I got the motor professionally built to 460HP so it was shame not to shift it nice. Heres hoping we get a NICE NO RAIN SUNNY summer for our verts!!!!
  5. This sounds like a carb problem more then fuel delivery. Ive never seen a case where angle of filter mattered. The fuel pump will do its job and push right thru that. If in doubt, you could get a gauge and measure fuel pump pressure to rule that out, but I dont think it would give you that hesitation symptom. Any good carb guys around who know how to clean and tune them properly? Sounds lean at low end and when you step on gas and add more air it leans further before picking up
  6. Thats so much Chuck! I will print this off and talk it over with the builders. You are spot, I have spent my whole life saving up money and I realized I am not having any fun with it, might as well spend it on something i enjoy.
  7. digithead

    New garage

    I almost dont know where to start. I have decided at 58 I am going to spoil myself and build a garage to really work on stuff. I want a lift, I want a heated floor (I live in upstate NY with long winters). I have some land restrictions because I live in residential neighborhood and have zoning. My current "old garage" is on 24w x 19 deep. Its not worth fixing. I have the cash to do it right. Id like to tear it down and start over with poured concrete floor and the drive up to it will be concrete. I can do in floor radiant heat. Because of zoning, I will be lucky to get 24x24 when done or maybe 24W x 32 deep with a variance. But I am set on a lift of why bother. I have done lots of reading on all styles of lifts to get up to speed. The fact that I havent built garage gives me too many options to figure out where to start. So I'd like a 24' wide 2 car garage with a large or oversized single door. I envision a lift on one side, I dont care, left or right. To me, seems like a 4 post would offer up advantage of having a larger car collection as you can park one on top and drive under it. What advice would you give if theres limitation on say 24' wide (zoning) and a lift? So I need high side walls correct? Instead of standard 8' I need 12? I dont even mind that if its so high I get storage over the top. I am basically looking at wood frame construction with white vinyl siding so it matches my house, and metal roofing. Its Northeast NY so high pitch roof is good for snow load. I really dont know how to design it to start. I looked at prefab metal kits but I want to heat this too and with all metal construction I am wondering about insulation etc. I know and trust the brain trust here much more then I do general contractors. You guys get it when it comes to working on cars.
  8. I like it, thats the way to go. If I had to do it over, I'd go this route for sure.
  9. What a horrible design is the connector system for the dash cluster circuit board? My old one was in rough shape so I bought a brand new one from CJ Pony parts. Easy to install. I plug in the male connector from car dash. Try my dash lights and when I wiggle that connector the lights go on and off. Since the PC board is new and no corrosion, I clean contacts on the male plug with wire brush. Same results. So I take very small pointed tool and bias (lift) those spring contacts on male plug up and out to make them press harder on board. THat did the trick. But its still crappy design. If it gives me any more lip, I will source a nice multi pin canon connector (male+female) set and solder on hard wired leads from contact points near lamps themselves, bypassing that crap flapping in the breeze plug system thats there now.
  10. If DelwareBillis correct, you could test quickly. Take a set of jumper cables, but only use the black. Put one black on battery NEG and the other black end to metal chassis somewhere so its well grounded. FWIW, when I redid my engine and bay, I bought 2 black neg cables (vs stock method of 1). 1 of my black NEg cables I ran down to block and bolted it on. The other runs from that bolt on engine, back up 18" to the fender ground point. REALLY SOLID GROUNDING = no ghosts.
  11. This may be a dumb question, so forgive me if it is. Transmissions are probably my weakest area of knowledge. So I have a 4 speed with what I believe is a sticky or bad syncro gear on third. Its temperamental going into 3rd either from 2nd, or downshift from 4th. A guy I know who has owned older mustangs before told me I can add a Lucas additive to tranny to try to free it up. I realize the best fix is pull it and fix it right. Its summer and we only get 3 months or so and I hate to lose convertible weather. I'd love to try some Lucas. I dont think I have much to lose, if it doesnt help, then I pull it this fall. So how can I add some? I'd have to drain a equal amount, say 1 quart, then add 1 quart of additive? I assume there would be drain plug on very bottom and then a side fill via some small plug? I dont own a lift (another topic) so its frustrating. Thanks in advance!
  12. Thanks nailpounder, yes thats what I was wondering if they even existed for our cars. Did you take them back off?
  13. So I should have been clearer. I didnt mean to put them on and remove and leaf springs (all or partial). I meant to add coil over shocks just to replace existing shocks and maybe make a better ride overall.
  14. Does anyone make a easy bolt on coil over rear shock that would fit the 1973 Mustang rear end? I have friend that says it would be a easy upgrade. But I cannot find them anywhere like CJ Pony parts, only FRONT shocks. Does anyone have coil over in the rear with stock leaf springs and how do you like the ride?
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