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digithead

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Everything posted by digithead

  1. Man, so last spring I opened the door and rolled out my 73 with no ENGINE even in it, and started painting engine bay. This spring, newly rebuilt motor in there, I opened the doors, charged battery, pumped it twice, and fired right up and idle perfect! What a change 1 year can make. Heres hoping your convertible summer is a good one!!! In Upstate NY summer is short so you cant miss a month with engine problems etc.
  2. man that screams fuel problems to me. Do you have gauge to check fuel pump pressure? If not can you just have it pump into a coffee can and check it? In between those short parts were you pumping it? If so, then it may be bad carb and it was just running off short squirts from accelerator pump?
  3. Thanks guys. Yes, I'm at that peace of mind point where I want to drive it and summers are short. I cant have it down a month. Kinda stupid to have $30K in the thing and a wonky tranny. I always wanted a good burn out machine. So with wonky third it was tough going to burn in second and get to third. LOL I'd be burning in second then taking 25 seconds to get 3rd it sucked big time! The dude who built runs a class shop. Even has a cool dyno tester for trannys that has big electric motor to drive the inout shaft. Has a PC hooked up. THats where I came in helping him keep this old tester alive. So we trust each other. Man its such a joy to shift now. He moved some parts around and welded something custom not sure what, but the pushing pressure is lighter now and smoother and move even over the stroke of the pedal. Damn clutch pushed pretty hard before him and people didnt like to drive it.
  4. Pretty pumped to have my 73 Vert outta the garage in Upstate NY where the snow never stops LOL. So I have done most everything to this car but the tranny. I've never had one apart and dont feel like learning the hard way. One of my customers is a good local Transmission place (over 40+ years). I made appointment for first thing in April so I'd have car for whole short summer. Took about 10 days to pull it. He said it was very gunked up inside and had some hack work done years ago. 3rd and reverse were really hard to shift into and out of. Came back just perfect. Man this guy does nice work. Shifts like a brand new car now! He thought it would run 1100 dollars and it was 1600. He said it was a lot more labor to get apart. Something about set screws that are worn off. He had to cut a shifting fork with plasma cutter then replace it after. In any case, since the whole car is so nice , I had no choice but do the tranny too. LAst year I got the motor professionally built to 460HP so it was shame not to shift it nice. Heres hoping we get a NICE NO RAIN SUNNY summer for our verts!!!!
  5. This sounds like a carb problem more then fuel delivery. Ive never seen a case where angle of filter mattered. The fuel pump will do its job and push right thru that. If in doubt, you could get a gauge and measure fuel pump pressure to rule that out, but I dont think it would give you that hesitation symptom. Any good carb guys around who know how to clean and tune them properly? Sounds lean at low end and when you step on gas and add more air it leans further before picking up
  6. Thats so much Chuck! I will print this off and talk it over with the builders. You are spot, I have spent my whole life saving up money and I realized I am not having any fun with it, might as well spend it on something i enjoy.
  7. digithead

    New garage

    I almost dont know where to start. I have decided at 58 I am going to spoil myself and build a garage to really work on stuff. I want a lift, I want a heated floor (I live in upstate NY with long winters). I have some land restrictions because I live in residential neighborhood and have zoning. My current "old garage" is on 24w x 19 deep. Its not worth fixing. I have the cash to do it right. Id like to tear it down and start over with poured concrete floor and the drive up to it will be concrete. I can do in floor radiant heat. Because of zoning, I will be lucky to get 24x24 when done or maybe 24W x 32 deep with a variance. But I am set on a lift of why bother. I have done lots of reading on all styles of lifts to get up to speed. The fact that I havent built garage gives me too many options to figure out where to start. So I'd like a 24' wide 2 car garage with a large or oversized single door. I envision a lift on one side, I dont care, left or right. To me, seems like a 4 post would offer up advantage of having a larger car collection as you can park one on top and drive under it. What advice would you give if theres limitation on say 24' wide (zoning) and a lift? So I need high side walls correct? Instead of standard 8' I need 12? I dont even mind that if its so high I get storage over the top. I am basically looking at wood frame construction with white vinyl siding so it matches my house, and metal roofing. Its Northeast NY so high pitch roof is good for snow load. I really dont know how to design it to start. I looked at prefab metal kits but I want to heat this too and with all metal construction I am wondering about insulation etc. I know and trust the brain trust here much more then I do general contractors. You guys get it when it comes to working on cars.
  8. I like it, thats the way to go. If I had to do it over, I'd go this route for sure.
  9. What a horrible design is the connector system for the dash cluster circuit board? My old one was in rough shape so I bought a brand new one from CJ Pony parts. Easy to install. I plug in the male connector from car dash. Try my dash lights and when I wiggle that connector the lights go on and off. Since the PC board is new and no corrosion, I clean contacts on the male plug with wire brush. Same results. So I take very small pointed tool and bias (lift) those spring contacts on male plug up and out to make them press harder on board. THat did the trick. But its still crappy design. If it gives me any more lip, I will source a nice multi pin canon connector (male+female) set and solder on hard wired leads from contact points near lamps themselves, bypassing that crap flapping in the breeze plug system thats there now.
  10. If DelwareBillis correct, you could test quickly. Take a set of jumper cables, but only use the black. Put one black on battery NEG and the other black end to metal chassis somewhere so its well grounded. FWIW, when I redid my engine and bay, I bought 2 black neg cables (vs stock method of 1). 1 of my black NEg cables I ran down to block and bolted it on. The other runs from that bolt on engine, back up 18" to the fender ground point. REALLY SOLID GROUNDING = no ghosts.
  11. This may be a dumb question, so forgive me if it is. Transmissions are probably my weakest area of knowledge. So I have a 4 speed with what I believe is a sticky or bad syncro gear on third. Its temperamental going into 3rd either from 2nd, or downshift from 4th. A guy I know who has owned older mustangs before told me I can add a Lucas additive to tranny to try to free it up. I realize the best fix is pull it and fix it right. Its summer and we only get 3 months or so and I hate to lose convertible weather. I'd love to try some Lucas. I dont think I have much to lose, if it doesnt help, then I pull it this fall. So how can I add some? I'd have to drain a equal amount, say 1 quart, then add 1 quart of additive? I assume there would be drain plug on very bottom and then a side fill via some small plug? I dont own a lift (another topic) so its frustrating. Thanks in advance!
  12. Thanks nailpounder, yes thats what I was wondering if they even existed for our cars. Did you take them back off?
  13. So I should have been clearer. I didnt mean to put them on and remove and leaf springs (all or partial). I meant to add coil over shocks just to replace existing shocks and maybe make a better ride overall.
  14. Does anyone make a easy bolt on coil over rear shock that would fit the 1973 Mustang rear end? I have friend that says it would be a easy upgrade. But I cannot find them anywhere like CJ Pony parts, only FRONT shocks. Does anyone have coil over in the rear with stock leaf springs and how do you like the ride?
  15. Man good for you, you are living the dream!! You're killing me with garage talk. Now post some pictures of garage/shop! Thats exactly what I want. I am 58 and 2 - separate 2 car garages. I want to tear down the old one and build a REAL shop to tinker in. When I was a kid in 70's I dabbled in painting cars and I want to get back to that. I want to learn to weld too. Good advice from you on living the way you want. Wish we lived close to each other, I'd be down for all the 70's rock too! I am a luthier and guitar amp tech and work with a lot of cool musicians. Biggest one is Bryan Adams. Just do not keep putting off for sure. The garage is a mess all the time I have too many projects always. The actual building is very reasonable I think. If I remember correct the 50' X 80' with 6" insulation 18' eave height with 11 window openings framed and three personal entry doors and two 16' garage openings delivered here was $32,000. I am lucky enough to be able to do all my own electrical and plumbing. It did have to pass multiple inspections by I believe 5 different inspectors and did so on the first pass each time. I put the walls together for the work room on the floor and put ad on cl for someone to come help stand them up. I built the walls 6" thick but used 2X4 on 12" centers and staggered the studs in and out. That makes the room much more sound proof and has fantastic R value since the inside walls and outside walls do not touch. Can heat with body heat almost. 12" of insulation on two walls and 6" on inside wall and 4 on the wall with door. I kept a lookout at the Habitat and Goodwill stores here and got lots of stuff for nearly nothing. The tile and baseboard for the workroom and more left over was $55.00 for all. I installed the lift myself as long as you have an engine hoist not a problem. While in China I drew up the garage in AutoCad but upon returning found that I could not do what I wanted. Have garage on ground floor and have second story as and apartment. The fire barriers required were way too expensive. I did put a 3' overhang on the front of the building which makes it look much better. If you have lots of friends you can put the building up yourself. I hired contractor to do the erection. His record that that size building is 3 days with a crew of 8 men. They had the entire red iron frame up in one day. Of course rain came and slowed the walls and roof down but went really fast. I did lay out the front of the garage to add a 1,000 sq. ft. apartment in the future. All the plumbing and electrical are there for full bath, laundry, kitchen, bedroom and living area. I do wish it was larger. When I was trying to lay it out I cut to scale pieces of plastic that I put on the ground so I could see the physical size of cars in the area. I also put home type insulated double pain windows and foam core insulated garage and entry doors that were not part of the building cost. One big cost adder was fill dirt and site preparation. It was $17,000 for just dirt and packing and prep. If you have a good level site it will cut costs a bunch. There was 70 yards of concrete in the footings and floor. I do not have a crack anywhere in the floor so they did really good. I used the builders track hoe to put in the water line, conduit for electrical, and put the drains in for the gutter run off. The roof of the workroom is also floored and I store parts up there of which I have entirely too many. I put angle bracing all around the ceiling of the work room to increase the load bearing ability. I have a set of attic steps I will put up on the outside of the workroom for easier access. I will put in some pipes for venting before doing any paint. The room is sealed tight with caulking everywhere. I hung the 1/2" X 12' drywall and finished it also. I coated with oil base Kilz and bath and kitchen paint so it can be hosed down. If you put floor drains in they get very strict so I did not. Can even require yearly EPA testing in some cases. I could not put like a grate floor in for future paint booth without getting EPA involved so I did not. Hey not a working shop it is a hobby shop. Not going to paint lots of cars will be lucky for one a year. My problem now is I have the need to go to Africa and spend some time in the bush which usually leads to months away. I do get house sitter but nothing gets done either. So I might disappear for a few months very soon. When looking at lifts I could not see a 4 post that just lifts the car so you can jack it up and the ramps are in the way. I use the lift when washing or wiping the car down or doing wax. It came with three year warranty was tested and free shipping and great price is why I got that one I have. I cannot make that decision for you everyone has preference. I have vapor enclosure LED lights in the work room and LED in the open shop. I did not put lots of lights in the open shop it is more or less a big storage area. Have drop lights when working on lift and workroom is very bright. I will never get a third of my projects done but not going to stress over it. I have sold 5 cars already and will sell several more. I will pick my battles as best as I can. When I get tired of working on car I work on garage or home or yard. Always have several projects going. When I put the electrical in I put a 400 amp meter base with twin 200 amp breaker boxes. Will never need that much but so cheap going in it is there. Bending conduit takes some thinking but the actual wiring is very simple and straight forward. You can see on the picture dates from bare floor to putting up walls in one day I think 6 on this crew and one was useless, lol. Cheers, David OMG you didnt build a garage or workshop, you made a small car dealership!!! I cant do it without moving, I live in a small town with Zoning. Now I am on ZOning Board but I dont think it will look good if iI issued a variance to build this in my residential neighborhood!! So cool. I'm so jealous
  16. Thank you! Awesome pixs thats just what I was hoping for. Now tell me you have your own lift in your garage! Thats my next big purchase, except I have to build a new garage to house the new lift. This car is getting expensive. LOL, Yes I do have a 2 post lift. When I retired lots of die shops were bugging me about coming to work for them in engineering. I picked one in China and went there for one year. If you are an Xpat and stay out of the U.S. for I think 340 days out of a year your taxes go to minimal. I would make several times what I could in the U.S., they pay extremely good in China. I came home and built a 4,000 sq. ft. garage with 6" of insulation, insulated doors and windows, a separate insulated work room. I got a rotisserie, hyd. press, brake lathe and already had lots of tools. So I play in the garage when I want, listen to 70's rock as loud as I want, goof off when I want and just have fun. Never put anything off that you can do today and live life hard and fast. On the subject of not needing the driveshaft loop. When I drove my Mach 1 I went over 100 mph every day. I did burn outs every day. I slid sideways into curbs a couple times and almost rolled the car. I had to change the ball joints 2 times in 12,000 miles. I broke 3 rear u joints in 3 months. My old hot rod 1950 Ford I broke 16 transmissions, many axles, driveshafts and ripped clutches out. Knock on wood I never have blown an engine I know when to change gears and when to stop revving. My next build will have extra HSS plate added to the rocker boxes and will have a 6 point roll cage, a scatter shield and shoulder harness. It will have driveshaft loop. I intend to drive the car extremely hard and I do not want to destroy it or me for the lack of a few hundred dollars worth of parts and some metal. I am 70 and I will never drive slow or take it easy on a car. If you crash in one of these cars keep in mind that probably at least 50% of the thickness of the metal has rusted away in many critical areas and the bodies are very weak. In a crash as they are you do not stand a chance. Google some of the crashes. There is one of a camaro that was doing some high speed runs in a controlled environment and crashed. The roll bars even folded but they took the safety harness off and got out. If you hit another car on the road head on and you and they are both going 65 it is like hitting a wall at 130 and you will die without added equipment. Now me I feel paying insurance is a waste of money and have none on home or garage. If they can pay thousands of salaries, have huge fancy buildings and million dollar salaries for the top dogs I should come out ahead to not buy it. But I do believe in real insurance like the roll bar and safety loop because that is going to happen just you never know when. BTW I wish the garage was 6,000 sq. ft.. When I rode a motorcycle I always wore helmet, boots and good jacket. I remember very distinctly the sound of that helmet scraping on the pavement and not my skull when I went down once. The jacket had holes in it and I had some rash but came out ok. I decided I would kill myself early if I kept the bike so I sold it, back in 1980 I think. David Man good for you, you are living the dream!! You're killing me with garage talk. Now post some pictures of garage/shop! Thats exactly what I want. I am 58 and 2 - separate 2 car garages. I want to tear down the old one and build a REAL shop to tinker in. When I was a kid in 70's I dabbled in painting cars and I want to get back to that. I want to learn to weld too. Good advice from you on living the way you want. Wish we lived close to each other, I'd be down for all the 70's rock too! I am a luthier and guitar amp tech and work with a lot of cool musicians. Biggest one is Bryan Adams.
  17. No I dont. But I have 475HP now and do enjoy a few good burnouts. If you scroll down you will see others that have seen what happens when you burn out. If you snap front you can try to pole vault.
  18. Thank you! Awesome pixs thats just what I was hoping for. Now tell me you have your own lift in your garage! Thats my next big purchase, except I have to build a new garage to house the new lift. This car is getting expensive.
  19. Question for all. I was talking with a local mechanic about adding a driveshaft safety loop at front end of driveshaft. He said on the convertible Mustang I didnt need it because on the rag top there is a stiffening brace of some sort across the body that would serve the same purpose? I dont have a lift and quite honest can't see under there well enough. Anyone have a picture of underside that explains this ? I had planned on getting the bolt on type loops.
  20. Is there a definitive way to determine if rear leaf springs are worn out? I love my 1973 but boy it rides a bit rough. My clue is if you stand band and look at it , I'd say the rear end is sitting "lower" then I would imagine it should. So I thought of getting longer shackle kits to fix it. But now I realize maybe its just better to bite bullet and new leaf springs and fix the ride and the stance?
  21. Thanks so much for figuring all that out for me! Wow I have learned a ton. So the simple approach would probably be to just try retrofitting with needle bearing kit and see where I am at. Also, I am wondering if anyone ever "modded" the stock linkage, because technically you could lengthen a moment arm and use physics to have a more mechanical advantage when pressing, so the pressure would feel easier.
  22. THank you!! THat makes sense. I never knew you could get the actual pressure in force of the pp. At least then you have some benchmark to compare by. Learn something new everyday! I drove it a bit yesterday and its tolerable. Gotta wear sneakers for sure, no more sandals driving or something bad might happen lol (read me going thru the back of my garage).
  23. Thanks for the advice, makes sense. Is there some kit out there or did you basically pull it all out and find bearings that fit? I've never pull pedal/linage assembly so I am assuming its all just simple bushings, so you figured out bearings would be better. THanks for the links but that kit at CJ Pony only goes to 1970. Mine is a 1973. a roller and heim type system only eliminates friction cause by the mechanical linkage so it will not make a huge difference in the amount of force required to depress the pedal. yes the stock pedal support uses bushings. heres the instruction info and the kit info for the pedal support conversion. http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/howto/instructions/64-70ClutchPedalBearingInstr.pdf https://www.cjponyparts.com/roller-bearing-clutch-and-brake-pedal-support-bushing-kit-1965-1970/p/HW1015/ SOME HEIM JOINT CONVERSION INFO http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/general-discussion-non-vintage-mustang/533472-heim-joint-clutch-linkage.html
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