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Everything posted by digithead

  1. Can anyone tell me what this is actually called? It bolts on to valve cover and the engine harness can attach to it. I only had 1 before the engine rebuild job, I 'd like to get 2 more? Dont know what I am Googling for even. SOurce? Part NUmber? Thanks all.
  2. So heres a update. I got car running today and took on a easy maiden voyage. THe clutch wasnt quite as bad as I thought when sitting in garage with car off. I think its livable. I see people post that they wish the didnt go stock, and I dont want to be that guy either where you get on it and it spins the clutch. I think I will drive it for 1 summer and see how I feel about it. It may be worth it in the long run if burnouts dont bother it. Thanks all.
  3. Thanks but I dont follow what is a fail fail fail? Putting in the clutch I chose, or someone elses reply?
  4. Thanks for the advice, makes sense. Is there some kit out there or did you basically pull it all out and find bearings that fit? I've never pull pedal/linage assembly so I am assuming its all just simple bushings, so you figured out bearings would be better.
  5. Yes I do. And its all same hardware as when we pulled motor out last fall to have engine rebuilt. Only change in new clutch,PP, and throw out bearing
  6. So last Fall my faithful 351C spun a low main bearing in back of motor. I had a good pro shop rebuild and stroke it to a 408. Its dyno'd at 460HP/500FPT. I have a local shop I use a lot for car maintenance, thats good to me, reinstall the rebuilt motor. Since I had motor rebuilt I figured we gotta put in new clutch and pressure plate that would be stupid not to. I order from Summit Racing at McLeod StreetPro 11" 10 spline clutch and pp. My logic, be it right or wrong, was that I now own almost 500HP mustang and stock clutch may vaporize quick if I enjoy dumping it (jury is out on that). So Now that motor is in, I get in car and push clutch pedal and holy crap thats hard to press! The motor dude told me to just buy a stock clutch and pp at local auto parts store but like a idiot I didnt listen. I seriously didnt think one step up in clutch would be that much noticeable but dear Lord you can really feel it. What do you say? Its ok if you tell me I'm a idiot sometimes I learn best at the school of hard knocks. I may have to bite bulllet and pay for new clutch install, I dont have a lift. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mcl-75111
  7. I just went through this with my 351C. Since it was numbers matching I felt better to keep original engine for the long term. So I went for stroker rebuild. Set me back $8K but its a dyno monster at 460HP/500 torque. Had a pro blueprint it
  8. Your Hooker rep was confused, there is no issue with fitment in a 71-73 around the power steering box. The 65-70 had an external ram that was usually in the way and required a drop bracket. 6915 - 4V heads 6921 - 2V heads end of story WOW! Thank you!! Do you have these headers by chance? I thought it was weird thats why I called them!!!! Maybe the PO just ordered wrong damn things!
  9. Thank you. Turns out thats what the previous owner did! I didnt know they would even bolt up. Learned something new.
  10. So the plot thickens!! thank you all for your help. I called motor rebuilder and he is adamant I have 2V heads. So I called Hooker about my headers. He said they didnt have headers for 2V with power steering, which is me! So he guessed that previous owner put on the OTHER HEADERS for 4V heads as they do support PS. I didnt realize the bolt pattern was the same! So you guessed it, my PO could have put 4V headers on 2V heads! Hence my mass confusion. So what should I do for replacement headers? Hooker tech support says the one listed on website for 2V 351C cannot have PS????
  11. Hi all. I have a head and exhaust question. I have 73 Mustang with numbers matching 351C Engine. I understood/believed I had 2V heads and car was shipped with 2BBL carb. When I bought it, it had 4BBL Edelbrock and Hooker Headers. Last fall I spun a low end bearing. I had engine pro rebuilt by very reputable shop and dyno tested (450hp now). So, before putting engine back in with old rusty exhaust manifolds I thought i would buy new ones. THe Hooker number is clearly stamped on them and when I looked them up it says they are for 4V heads?? Can that be? When I talked with engine rebuilder about options we talked about aftermarket heads but he agreed that keeping original 2V heads was a good thing?? So I look at engine. On Drivers side I find a single 2 in the head casting at the back of motor. On Passengers side, I have found two number "4's". I took pictures of my headers, which are still in car from when we removed motor last fall, and the part number from Hooker Headers is clearly shown. I am adding pictures to this post as hopefully someone experienced in 351C can clear up my confusion.
  12. So I bought my 1973 Mustang convertible with 315C about 2 years ago. End started and ran fine but the guy I bought it from never had motor out or knew much about it internally. Its run really strong for the 1500-2000 miles I've put on it. A week ago a bad sound low end knock slowly developed. Quiet at startup, then it comes on worse as engine warms up. Knock is more pronounced at 1800-2200 RPM range. Oil was changed 100 miles ago. Oil pressure is always strong, runs 50-75PSI on new sensor and gauge. So I've had two auto pros stop by and listen, neither liked the sound. Both think its low end bearing sound and not valve related. So my question. If it comes down to pulling motor what are best affordable options? I thought crate motor, but I dont need stupid HP or want to have stupid money in the car. I am about 18K in it now and its mint but this issue. I could pull motor and find local shop and let them rebuild. I could order crate and swap this? I could order crate and store this one for next owner? My preference would be to keep cost at a minimum as I dont see a $6000 engine a good investment in these cars. Would be awesome to have 450-500 HP but thats too much money. THink I'd be happy with a solid 300HP motor. I've heard the 351C is known for oil not reaching back bearing due to poor design? Is this the time to fix it and rebuild motor? Motor was PERFECTLY strong before this, 0 complaints. Could smoke tires easily.
  13. I have this used wheel for sale. Perfect shape. I really wanted a wooden wheel so I got one. This has the hub adapter for 71-73 mustang and the mustang horn button too. $90 + UPS Shipping, I can accept PayPal too.
  14. Just went with this stock Grant wheel (cjpony). 13.5 and about 3.5 of dish. Came with Mustang horn button kit too. Thanks all
  15. Thanks thats interesting I didnt know that was a option! This looks like easy fix it lowers pressure by just bypassing sooner right.
  16. Thanks all, its not really causing a issue just looks weird to me. But it Fords of this era are like that its fine by me. Sure dont need them CLOSER as I am 6'5" and most of its all leg LOL. Funny how we all have different problems. Pushing clutch to the FLOOR is not one of mine. I made custom seat rails and moved them back 4" over stock.
  17. This may be dumb question but it bugs me. Should me two pedals, clutch and brake, be closer is position off the floor. Look at photo. Doesnt show really well but clutch pedal is about 2 inches higher (closer to steering wheel) then the brake. Is there any adjustment or remedy to that, or is it just normal? Both work fine. For the record MARTI says car was built as a Auto so someone put 4 speed in it albeit they did a really nice job.
  18. She got some new rubber pedals and chrome trim rings from CJPONY. Looks so much better now.
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