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mrmolding

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    72 Mach 1

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    Va
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    Northeast

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  1. I know this thread is a little old, but does anyone know what bolt is used for the smaller 351 4V heat shield? I have the shorter/smaller one that StangLover has in the second pic in his post above. It has a smaller bolt that goes into the manifold itself and not from a stud on the block. I tried every bolt in my parts boxes and went to two stores. I couldn't find anything that was just right. Any help is welcomed!
  2. Exxon 93 and Lead additive per tank since it was done back in the day. I don't know if it had hardened seats, but the last owner only put about 1000-2000 miles on it since the 83 rebuild when it was parked in 84. He would start it from time to time, but never really drove it between 1984 to 1998 except in and out of his garage to move it. So it then sat hard from 1998 to 2016 when it went into storage and I bought it in early 2016, and got it running a year ago. The owner had the intake/covers a loose and he told that he would spray WD-40 in the heads and down the chambers every six months or so for almost 20 years. I followed the Marvel Mystery Oil on the valves and let it seep in and let it sit for a few days (or something like that, its been two years) and turned it by hand to make sure that it hadn't seized. So when I got it back together, I drained the oil/etc out and it took a few 5qt pans to catch everything that came out. Lots came out! I've since changed the oil twice, but I am wondering it just needs to blow out all of the crud from 20-30 years of sitting. if it sat with the carb on it for 20+ years then I would lean towards the carb being whacky, if it were mine, I'd run it dry and try a couple of gallons of regular and the lead additive and see if the fumes are better. Gas in 73 wasn't the highest of octanes lol and with a lil dirty burn you might clear it out, if it still smells a quick carb rebuild from a really good carb guy would probably fix you right up and not really cost that much. Its not like it is built as a current racing motor that wants super high octane. Like my engine block guy told me, don't bother with all this new stuff, high grade synthetic, super clean additive crap, this engine needs the old school treatment ( in my case he meant a simple 30 weight oil with high phosphorus and that's it, no syn, no cleaning agents, no purple power break in, just simple, it works). Fair enough. I've been wondering about that! So I re-read the info on the car and the motor came out of a 73 Torino 351C CJ car. If my memory serves me, didn't the 73 Clevelands take regular fuel? Hmm. I appreciate the help and ideas!
  3. Exxon 93 and Lead additive per tank since it was done back in the day. I don't know if it had hardened seats, but the last owner only put about 1000-2000 miles on it since the 83 rebuild when it was parked in 84. He would start it from time to time, but never really drove it between 1984 to 1998 except in and out of his garage to move it. So it then sat hard from 1998 to 2016 when it went into storage and I bought it in early 2016, and got it running a year ago. The owner had the intake/covers a loose and he told that he would spray WD-40 in the heads and down the chambers every six months or so for almost 20 years. I followed the Marvel Mystery Oil on the valves and let it seep in and let it sit for a few days (or something like that, its been two years) and turned it by hand to make sure that it hadn't seized. So when I got it back together, I drained the oil/etc out and it took a few 5qt pans to catch everything that came out. Lots came out! I've since changed the oil twice, but I am wondering it just needs to blow out all of the crud from 20-30 years of sitting.
  4. I think we have a winner on this one! I'll enjoy it! I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it) and I wanted to see if I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list. I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb. But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive. Wow, what a difference. It starts almost like an EFI car. The odor is much less, but still present. I guess I'll be driving solo! Thanks again everyone! the fuel vapor canister can be a culprit in heavy fuel odor too, I actually got a NOS one six months ago and replaced it. Made the garage smell better but not much on the driving smell. Thanks again!
  5. that's entirely possible too, if you really wanna know you can borescope it and look at the top and see if you see anything unique, other than that you might just have to crack it open. I cant think of a reason you really need to know for sure since you know the cam specs. If its good i'd just go with it and worry about it in 150k miles. I think we have a winner on this one! I'll enjoy it! I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it) and I wanted to see if I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list. I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb. But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive. Wow, what a difference. It starts almost like an EFI car. The odor is much less, but still present. I guess I'll be driving solo! Thanks again everyone!
  6. So I found a GM similar piston to the part number -- SEALED POWER L2403NF and I get your point about no rods or crankshaft in the receipt. Thanks!
  7. I actually knew the guys that did the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys. They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket Sealed Power Boss 351-like cam . Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number. But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.
  8. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on my motor build and help identifying a part number. I recently found the rebuild receipt that came with my 72 Mach 1. The motor is a 351C and the parts list date is 9/2/1983. Since the car sat for 30 years it is a fairly fresh motor so I figured I'd leave it alone. The CAM is a Sealed Power CS-173R and based on what I've found, it explains the lope. After a few hours on the web, I was able to identify all of the parts of the rebuild except for the (what I think) are the pistons. I was wondering if anyone here might know where to point me or if the part number on the list makes sense. It is listed as Sealed Power 2403P-30 I was able to find all of the other parts based on the person's handwriting, but not this one. I've found WL-2403 and others that are close. Any help or recommendations as to the build is welcome! Thanks!
  9. My 72 had black crinkle paint covers that were looking tired. I searched the web and found a Australian eBay seller: restocountry and the listing was for: Ford V8 351 Cleveland Rocker Cover +Gaskets POWER BY FORD XW XY XA +XB XC XD XE They were listed as new and not very cheap, but I figured I'd take a chance. Not sure if the still make them down there or they are NOS, but they look great. It took two weeks and I got them yesterday. They need the rubber insert for the breather that I found from Scott Drake.
  10. Thanks for the help everyone! I took the axles to a local garage, got the bearings pressed on, and installed the axles a few hours ago. The noise is gone and the car has no noises from the rear end! Of course it was dark and now my front turn signals don't work but the interior dash lights blink, and the rears blink. I guess this is a perpetual project! :)
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