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mrmolding

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Everything posted by mrmolding

  1. I know this thread is a little old, but does anyone know what bolt is used for the smaller 351 4V heat shield? I have the shorter/smaller one that StangLover has in the second pic in his post above. It has a smaller bolt that goes into the manifold itself and not from a stud on the block. I tried every bolt in my parts boxes and went to two stores. I couldn't find anything that was just right. Any help is welcomed!
  2. Exxon 93 and Lead additive per tank since it was done back in the day. I don't know if it had hardened seats, but the last owner only put about 1000-2000 miles on it since the 83 rebuild when it was parked in 84. He would start it from time to time, but never really drove it between 1984 to 1998 except in and out of his garage to move it. So it then sat hard from 1998 to 2016 when it went into storage and I bought it in early 2016, and got it running a year ago. The owner had the intake/covers a loose and he told that he would spray WD-40 in the heads and down the chambers every six months or so for almost 20 years. I followed the Marvel Mystery Oil on the valves and let it seep in and let it sit for a few days (or something like that, its been two years) and turned it by hand to make sure that it hadn't seized. So when I got it back together, I drained the oil/etc out and it took a few 5qt pans to catch everything that came out. Lots came out! I've since changed the oil twice, but I am wondering it just needs to blow out all of the crud from 20-30 years of sitting. if it sat with the carb on it for 20+ years then I would lean towards the carb being whacky, if it were mine, I'd run it dry and try a couple of gallons of regular and the lead additive and see if the fumes are better. Gas in 73 wasn't the highest of octanes lol and with a lil dirty burn you might clear it out, if it still smells a quick carb rebuild from a really good carb guy would probably fix you right up and not really cost that much. Its not like it is built as a current racing motor that wants super high octane. Like my engine block guy told me, don't bother with all this new stuff, high grade synthetic, super clean additive crap, this engine needs the old school treatment ( in my case he meant a simple 30 weight oil with high phosphorus and that's it, no syn, no cleaning agents, no purple power break in, just simple, it works). Fair enough. I've been wondering about that! So I re-read the info on the car and the motor came out of a 73 Torino 351C CJ car. If my memory serves me, didn't the 73 Clevelands take regular fuel? Hmm. I appreciate the help and ideas!
  3. Exxon 93 and Lead additive per tank since it was done back in the day. I don't know if it had hardened seats, but the last owner only put about 1000-2000 miles on it since the 83 rebuild when it was parked in 84. He would start it from time to time, but never really drove it between 1984 to 1998 except in and out of his garage to move it. So it then sat hard from 1998 to 2016 when it went into storage and I bought it in early 2016, and got it running a year ago. The owner had the intake/covers a loose and he told that he would spray WD-40 in the heads and down the chambers every six months or so for almost 20 years. I followed the Marvel Mystery Oil on the valves and let it seep in and let it sit for a few days (or something like that, its been two years) and turned it by hand to make sure that it hadn't seized. So when I got it back together, I drained the oil/etc out and it took a few 5qt pans to catch everything that came out. Lots came out! I've since changed the oil twice, but I am wondering it just needs to blow out all of the crud from 20-30 years of sitting.
  4. I think we have a winner on this one! I'll enjoy it! I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it) and I wanted to see if I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list. I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb. But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive. Wow, what a difference. It starts almost like an EFI car. The odor is much less, but still present. I guess I'll be driving solo! Thanks again everyone! the fuel vapor canister can be a culprit in heavy fuel odor too, I actually got a NOS one six months ago and replaced it. Made the garage smell better but not much on the driving smell. Thanks again!
  5. that's entirely possible too, if you really wanna know you can borescope it and look at the top and see if you see anything unique, other than that you might just have to crack it open. I cant think of a reason you really need to know for sure since you know the cam specs. If its good i'd just go with it and worry about it in 150k miles. I think we have a winner on this one! I'll enjoy it! I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it) and I wanted to see if I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list. I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb. But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive. Wow, what a difference. It starts almost like an EFI car. The odor is much less, but still present. I guess I'll be driving solo! Thanks again everyone!
  6. So I found a GM similar piston to the part number -- SEALED POWER L2403NF and I get your point about no rods or crankshaft in the receipt. Thanks!
  7. I actually knew the guys that did the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys. They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket Sealed Power Boss 351-like cam . Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number. But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.
  8. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on my motor build and help identifying a part number. I recently found the rebuild receipt that came with my 72 Mach 1. The motor is a 351C and the parts list date is 9/2/1983. Since the car sat for 30 years it is a fairly fresh motor so I figured I'd leave it alone. The CAM is a Sealed Power CS-173R and based on what I've found, it explains the lope. After a few hours on the web, I was able to identify all of the parts of the rebuild except for the (what I think) are the pistons. I was wondering if anyone here might know where to point me or if the part number on the list makes sense. It is listed as Sealed Power 2403P-30 I was able to find all of the other parts based on the person's handwriting, but not this one. I've found WL-2403 and others that are close. Any help or recommendations as to the build is welcome! Thanks!
  9. My 72 had black crinkle paint covers that were looking tired. I searched the web and found a Australian eBay seller: restocountry and the listing was for: Ford V8 351 Cleveland Rocker Cover +Gaskets POWER BY FORD XW XY XA +XB XC XD XE They were listed as new and not very cheap, but I figured I'd take a chance. Not sure if the still make them down there or they are NOS, but they look great. It took two weeks and I got them yesterday. They need the rubber insert for the breather that I found from Scott Drake.
  10. Thanks for the help everyone! I took the axles to a local garage, got the bearings pressed on, and installed the axles a few hours ago. The noise is gone and the car has no noises from the rear end! Of course it was dark and now my front turn signals don't work but the interior dash lights blink, and the rears blink. I guess this is a perpetual project! :)
  11. Awesome! I have all of the parts I need then. Thanks again for the help!
  12. Thanks for the response! So, I guess just a basic question... Does the collar need to fit into the housing as shown on my driver's side and be a tight fit? Or is it just the bearing that takes the load and the collar just holds it on the axle?
  13. My 72 had been sitting in a garage since 1985 and it literally had only been rolled onto tow beds since I got it two years ago. I am slowing getting it back on the road but I've only gone a few miles -- I hear a consistent scrape, scrape, scape sound from the passenger side rear that sounded more like bearing than a rubbing brake/out of round drum. It increases and decreases with speed. So I finally pulled the axles yesterday to check the bearings and I noticed that the passenger bearing collar is much smaller than the driver's side and it looks like it's dug a groove in the collar race area in the housing. I've put pics below to show the driver and passenger axles and housings. The bearings seem ok even though they are at least 30 years old. I bought new ones today but the collars are much too small. The bearings seem correct and they slide all of the way down. I picked up the RW-207-CCRA bearings. Here are my questions: 1. Is the original passenger collar correct? 2. Does only the collar get pressed on? Does the bearing slide on without being pressed? 3. If I get the correct collar, is the housing so chewed up that I'll just need a new housing? I got a seal to check how well a new one would fit and it looks like only 50% of the collar would seat. After the groove, nothing would touch until the bearing. Any help is welcome! Passenger side: Passenger side axle: Driver side: Driver side axle:
  14. Hmm. So a new pair of these as Hooker Competition is 233 or so. Now I'll put them in the rainy day shed if no one needs them... :) Thanks for the help!
  15. These came with my 72 Mach 1 when I got it and the previous owner told me that they've been off the car since 1985 when it was parked. Not sure if these are worth anything or if shipping would be too much to bother. But I have a large box and it all fits. Open to offers but I'd like to get at least 100 or so. Thanks!
  16. Thanks again everyone for the nice welcome! I know that this car is not the only one with T-Tops. There is a white one on the west coast and one more -- I called a guy in New Jersey about parts last year who specializes in t-tops and he said that this is the third 71-73 Mustang he's seen with the Hurst Hatch Kit. He mentioned the white one and then he said another one he remembered from back in the day. He said that he'd also done a few of them with sunroofs. My set was done by a shop in Springfield, VA (I am fairly certain) and the name escapes me but I remember it being a local shop that did those kind of mods. Anyway, while they are neat, parts do not exist unless they are NOS or used and I'll have to piece something together to replace the seals from replacement parts for an H/O Cutlass since they came stock on those. That is the good thing is that those seals are being made again.
  17. One more from when I was trying to figure out what seals I needed....
  18. Ok. So I'll get a replacement safety switch and see how she goes. I've seen some with one square connector but the one listed for this car has two square connectors and I seem to have two unplugged square connectors. Thanks again!
  19. Thanks from everyone! The T-Tops themselves are in fairly decent shape. There was a generic aftermarket Hurst Hatch kit in the 70s and this car has that kit. I saw a NOS kit go on eBay last year for 2500 so they are still around I guess. But, the bigger challenge was finding new seals for them if and when I get it painted. I've narrowed it down to replacements for a 73ish Hurst Olds Cutlass should fit with some trimming. Here are pics from when it was just sitting before I got it.
  20. Hello everyone! I have been searching the board for a while and I decided it was time to become a paying member so I figured I'd introduce myself. A year and a half ago I wound up buying my friend from high school's 72 Q Code Mach 1 that he was fortunate enough to store since the early 90s. It sat stored until he needed to pass it along and I was able to get it. What I always thought was unique about it is that the original owner before my friend, put Hurst Hatch T-Tops in it and gave it a Boss 351 paint job on the hood in black and silver from it's original Gold Glo. He bought it as is and it has had the same paint job since the early 80s. I am just trying to get it back running as I am amazed at what almost 30 years does to seals, etc. I recently got it started and back on the road but I am just trying to make it safe before I really get on the roads! how to upload pictures to the internet
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