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Everything posted by Carguy4sp

  1. Wanted 14" clean set of Magnum 500 Wheels for my 1972 Mustang Q code 4sp Thanks Rodney from SW Florida
  2. Yes I received one quote for the premium one with listing wires for $159.00 plus $25 shipping but the standard one would not be much better than what I have. I guess the wires are important to pull down the seams into the foam to give the seat definition's. CJ Pony parts part number SF 36 I am trying to gather material needed to recreate the side support. I am thinking of using spray adhesive and dense 1/2 inch carpet padding. What does everyone think ? Rodney from SW Florida
  3. Guys, my 1972 Q code convertible has 2 year old seat covers and they were installed over the old foam. The sides of the backs are starting to rub thru the vinyl. I think there is no padding on the sides just the vinyl and the seat frame. So I plan on installing new seat foam and to repad the sides because it looks like the seat foam does not cover the sides. Any recommendations as to seat foam brand? What kind of padding material for the seat frame sides? Any tips for removing the seat covers without destroying them? Thanks for helping Rodney from SW Florida
  4. My cap is in good shape and it does not make sense to purchase a new cap just for the cable. I would however like to know the length so I can make my own. Just do not want to leave behind after fill up. Thanks Rodney from SW Florida
  5. Hey guys anyone have a source or a parts list to make a cable for the gas cap on my 1972 Q code convertible ? Thanks Rodney from SW Florida
  6. Thanks guys for the good info. I started very earl this morning and ran a tape stripe to use as a ref point. I started at the front and by the time I arrived at the rear I noticed the downward slope of the stripes not noticeable until the last stripe. I am ok with the the way they turned out but I sure could do better now that I know what to look for. The rear stripe was off quite a bit I had to reroute the inboard small stripe lines. Thanks Rodney from SW Florida
  7. Hey guys....New guy from SW Florida and have looked thru a lot of listings but could not find a rough measurement from hard body line to top of hockey stripe. I will be installing tomorrow a hockey stripe kit on my red 1972 Q code convertible. It is a nice car and I am an old guy and I do not want to mess it up. My plan is to run a tape line the length of the car to give me a straight line and a good visual ref. The pic I have seen looks like about 2 inches below the hard body line but that is just a guess. If anyone has measurements or any tips for install I would appreciate the info. Rodney from SW Florida
  8. I have your twin. I work as a valet driver for a local Audi dealer and I delivered a car back to a customer. In his garage was a very clean low mileage 1972 Q code 4 sp. I commented to the owner how nice it was so he explained to me the rairity of the car and I commented I was looking for my next classic. He explained the car was for sale so we made a deal on the spot. No regrets it is a nice car. Rodney from SW Florida
  9. I just purchased a 1972 Q code with 4 sp 44k miles. Rodney from SW Florida
  10. You will see my red Q code if you frequent the car shows. Thanks for the Welcome.... Glad to see a young man with a passion for old muscle. Good luck on your build. I do not have the budget now to change the color back but some day I will. Thanks to my northern neighbor. How to I post the PIC,s ? Well Steve my only disappointment so far has been the factory drum brakes. How do I post PICs
  11. [Wow what a write up, should be a sticky with this much step by step practical advise. I really appriciate your excellent advice and easy to understand directions. I am a paint and body guy so this kind of problem I do not have a good base of knowledge. Thanks again and I will let you know what I find. Rodney from SW Florida quote=basstrix;260465] Before you go spend $ on a m/c, I would verify the brake system is installed and operational. Your car should not have a proportioning valve. On a drum brake car, that's just a distribution manifold with the pressure differential switch. Disc brake cars will have an additional valve called a metering valve. This metering valve requires additional internal pressure before fluid can pass to the FRONT brakes. This should be a moot point since your car shouldn't have one. The differential valve is symmetrical looking and has sort of an H shape to the cutout. The combo valve (aka proportioning valve) has sort of a dog-leg shape. If, by some chance, you have the wrong valve, your front brakes will have less stopping ability than they would with correct valve. The differential switch will turn on due to anything that results in the pressure on one half to be significantly different from the other. An internal leak (m/c), external leak, or excessive air (in one side of system) can cause this. Your pedal is hard, so it doesn't sound like air (pedal would firm up by pumping it) but it does sound like it could be a frozen wheel cylinder. It's also possible to have the wrong length push rod but I think that's more of a long shot. If it was me, here's how I would begin (you should be able to complete this in less than an hour): 1. Check the brake fluid in the m/c. If one bowl is low, that may be a clue on which end of the brakes to look for problems. If either bowl is low, look for leaks at all connections, wheel cyls, back of m/c, etc. If the rear piston on the m/c leaks, it will usually leak out the back of the m/c, so be sure to check under the dash where the m/c passes through the firewall. 2. With the car up on stands, have someone cycle the brake pedal while you verify each wheel will rotate w/o brakes and that it locks hard with brakes. You should not be able to rotate the wheel with even relatively light pedal pressure. While you're at it, you can asses whether the shoes are properly adjusted...there should be a very slight drag from the shoes w/o any pedal pressure for properly adjusted shoes. 3. Pull the drums off and verify the shoes are all on correctly. It's possible to put the shoes on backwards...the shoe with shorter friction liner goes to the front. Any wheel with shoes on backwards will stop better in reverse and very poorly going forward. If you're unable to drive along and lock up the brakes, this is what I suspect is the problem. 4. Use a small screwdriver to pull the boot back on each side of each wheel cylinder. If any fluid drips out, you need to rebuild/replace that cylinder. If you see rust, that's also an indicator of a problem with the w/c. #2 should have quickly shown if you have frozen w/c. If, at this point, you haven't found something clearly wrong, I would do a quick brake bleed. This is more to check for fluid flow than it is for removing air. The car could have a smashed brake line somewhere and this will help find it. Starting with the wheel farthest from the m/c, have someone pump up the pedal and apply medium pressure...briefly crack open the bleeder and observe the volume that comes out. You should get a clear stream with no air pockets. Observe that each wheel should produce approximately the same amount of fluid. Be sure to keep the m/c full of fluid. Any wheel that doesn't produce fluid or only a dribble has a problem. Could be as simple as a clogged bleeder screw. If both front or both rear have a small amount of fluid compared to the other half of system, you have a bad m/c or check for smashed brake line. The front wheels have independent lines, so this would more likely be the rear, since it has a single line that splits at the rear axle. If/when you end up replacing the m/c, I suggest you go to o'reilly's web site and do a search specific to your vehicle. Pay attention to the details...the m/c bores are different diameter for drum vs disc/drum. Also, be prepared with the drum diameter and shoe width to know what wheel cylinders it should have (so you can choose the correct m/c). I would have no problem with the best quality from o'reillys or autozone, but you'll generally get a little more knowledge from somewhere like Napa. I've checked, and many of the parts sold by these 3 come from the same source. On these older vehicles, I've had a lot of problems with the counter guys getting me the right parts. Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
  12. Thanks guys for all of the ideas. I still need suggestions for a new master for all drum brake car.:thankyouyellow: Rodney from SW Florida
  13. Well guys I picked up my new purchase today and I am not disappointed but I do have an issue. My newly acquired 1972 Mustang 351CJ Convertible 4Speed has a hard brake pedal on this all drum no booster car. I suspect the PO had brake work done and they replaced the MC and used the new rod that came with the new MC maybe. Any way he had $500 done in brake work and the car needs 1/8 mile to stop. Very hard pedal and the instrument brake light stays on. I have not checked the fluid level yet but at the start of the trip home the light was off. Can any one give me a suggestion on a good quality M/C that would stop this car properly. I would like to keep it as stock looking as possible since this car only has 44K miles.:thankyouyellow: Rodney from SW Florida
  14. I have not made any plans yet. I will have to check the car over closely before a car show road trip. Could you post the dates? Thanks Rodney [/size] You going to make it to the MCA National event in St Augustine next month? I'll be bringing my 73 Q vert to the event David
  15. Thanks guys for the warm welcome. I will be picking up my new shiny toy this coming Saturday . I will post more info and pictures on this rare Q code convertible . Happy days are very close. Rodney in SW Florida
  16. Hey fellow car guys Rodney from SW Florida and wanted to say hello. I will be purchasing a 1972 convertible Q code with a 4 speed and I am excited. The car is low miles with 44k miles. PO changed color from gold to Red. It is very nice and needs very little to make it more special than it already is, maybe a nice stripe kit and a hood satin black stripe. It is a 4V Cobra Jet low option car without A/C or disk brakes. The odd part that I have trouble accepting is a brown(ginger) interior with a red exterior. I will have to get used to it or change the car back to the original color. Any advise to best direction to go? I am a leave it original type guy. I have enjoyed your site while learning more facts about my future classic mustang. Thanks Everyone Rodney from Fort Myers:thankyouyellow:[/size][/font]
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