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walterm

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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 Sportsroof 351C 4V 4 speed

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  • Location
    Yorkville, IL
  • Region
    Central

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  1. I installed one on my 66 vert to go along with a Borgesen power assisted gear box to get rid of all the fluid leaks associated with the ram cylinder and hoses. Very clean install, compact. My only issue with it is that when you remove the mounting bolts, it leaks. The mounting bolts also seal the reservoir. So you should drain it before removal. I think it also has higher pressure than the Ford unit. The pump and box combo are a huge improvement to the old 66 steering. I also added an Ididit tilt column.
  2. This supplier is about 30 minutes from me. I have been there. They specialize in used Fox body parts. It is run buy several young kids and they may or may not be there when you arrive. Their prices aren't the greatest, but they have Fox body parts if you need them.
  3. My next task was to tackle the quarter panels. I have been searching for NOS quarters for about 5 years and finally found them. I stole one of them for $400.00. I also found an NOS outer wheel house for the passenger side. My inners are in remarkably great shape. So, now I have two quarters and outer wheel houses, so it's time to start cutting. I started on the passenger side and removed the poorly installed skin from the PO. I was told that the PO hit a fire hydrant with the car and dorked the rear quarter. Looking closely shows that the RR leaf spring was replaced (it is different than the LR), and the rear tail light panel has also been replaced. The rear cross member below the tail light panel was also minimally dented in. A hammer and dolly was all that was needed to straighten. When I was removing the surrounding metal at the factory welds, I got confused about the area where the tail light panel and quarter meet. There seemed to some extra sheet metal there. After scratching my head for a couple hours, I determined that when the PO had the tail light panel replaced, what they did was just cut the old panel off just inside the factory welds and then welded the new panel right over the old. So now I have to replace the tail light panel as well to do the job right. This will make the trunk floor replacement much easier. I sandblasted and primed the entire inner structure and test fitted the outer wheel house. I have decided that this would be the time to replace the trunk floor, before the quarter goes back on.
  4. I would be interested to see if you can get tail pipes to fit over the axle.
  5. The cowl hat was bad. Unfortunately I didn't get good pictures of it. I had to source a hat from a donor car and fabricate the metal around it. It had an 8 inch hole, and the bracket that holds the air box under the dash was gone. I am soo glad that part of the project is behind me.
  6. Now that my inner fenders are complete, I can mount fenders and hood hinges. I have had this car for 20 years, and this will be the first time I have been able to mount hood hinges. I was unable to mount the hood due the rotted inner fenders around the hinges. So, I did a trial fit of the RF Dynacorn fender. Overall it fits pretty good, I will find out later when I put the hood on. I am happy with the profile at the door. Hinges did not come with the car so I purchased new ones along with hardware kits.
  7. Don't be afraid to look for used lifts as well. I picked up an eagle four post list for $1100.00 that was practically new. The guy was moving and didn't want to move it. My garage was built with the lift in mind also. You can get wheel kits for the lift to move it when needed. You can move it outside.
  8. I did find a picture of the floor test fit. It had to go in from the bottom of the car.
  9. Next project to tackle was the toe boards/floors. My toe boards were very thin in spots, so those areas were cut out and the entire area was sandblasted. The floors were also in bad shape so I made the decision to cut out the entire floor and replace with a one piece floor from a 70 mustang. The ribbing is a bit different, but that's ok. After a whole lot of patching and welding the toe boards look good. At this stage could weld in the 1 piece floor board, but decided that it is much easier to work inside the car without the floor in my way. So it will stay out until I finish all the interior sheet metal work. The passenger side floor support was rotted, so that was replaced. I'm really starting to understand what I have been told for years about aftermarket sheet metal not fitting properly. The replacement floor support was wider and taller than the factory part, so to scab it in I had to cut slots in the new part to neck it down to the factory dimensions before welding. Once the welds are ground, you not know. I did a trial fit of the one piece floor, but I did not get pictures of it. The fit was pretty good, but there will be work to make it fit correctly. The shifter doubler also has to be changed from the 70 panel. I will document this step at a later date.
  10. My car does not have a fold down rear seat, so I can't help you there. I thought about adding one, but then realized that I won't be hauling lumber in this car, so I don't need it. For the welds near the C pillar, Yeah that is normal. yours look worse than mine though. Your car was probably built on a Monday. While we are on the topic of poor welds...Take a look at my trunk hinge welds. These are really ugly. Are others seeing this on their cars as well? It looks like the hinge bolts to the package tray area, so I don't understand the need to weld these unless it is for panel adjustment. The weld om the drivers side is soo poor that it barely connects the two pieces.
  11. Thanks for the kind words, but I think if I had sense about me I would have bought one already done. Actually I really enjoy my time in the garage, I call it my brain eraser time.
  12. Wow, $8. I need to find better sources for this stuff. I do go to a body supply shop, but they kind of make me feel like they are doing me a favor just selling to me since I am not a body shop.
  13. Here are some more shots of the inner fender repairs to complete the cowl repairs. The gray you see between the panels is weld thru primer. Man this stuff is expensive. I think I paid $38.00 for an aerosol rattle can. I use it between the panels and then clean it up externally as best I can after the repair. I just don't know how well it works as a base coat for paint. One other thing I learned here is that you need to spend time to get the sand out of ALL the crevices anywhere near where you are working. The spray gun tends to dislodge the sand and it ends up in your freshly primed surfaces. The belted dynaglass tire in the last shot still has the rubber nubs on the tread surface. All four tires that came with the car look like they have never been on the road. The tire are not dry rotted, but I would not chance using them.
  14. It's an 89 full race car. I just sold an 82 GT and I also owned an 88 that I used up.
  15. So, my next task was to tackle the cowl. I needed patch panels, so I found a guy in Alabama that was willing to cut the entire cowl off of a donor car and send it to me in exchange for some AC parts I had. I was able to section the firewall and inner cowl panel from the donor parts as well as the top hat. I am learning to weld during this build and quickly discovered that I needed a better welder and purchased a Miller. What a difference! This part of the project tested my patience as there was a lot of rot that needed repair. I just worked on one section at a time. I painted the inside of the cowl before welding the cover back on and I am very pleased with the results. With this job done I am very motivated to continue and the results have inspired some much needed help from a friend to continue this process. here are some pictures of the before and after. The Blair spot weld cutter paid for itself here. Wow, I saw your FB pics of your car. Yours was much toastier than mine is. It gives me hope. Great job saving that car, I hate to see em go to the crusher.
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