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Everything posted by RacerX

  1. No resolution yet. The return to center is a function of the alignment and the power steering control valve internal to the steering box. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  2. Also the firewall holes are different for the heat/ac box and lines. Heat only the hose lines came thru the firewall high up just below the panel pinch weld. Heat/ac cars the lines come thru the bump out in the firewall and the hole is much larger with a large seal gasket. Very obvious firewall difference.
  3. That's just a Ford Motorsport sticker put on the fender that came from somewhere else. That fender's been on a car, for a while. Look at the back side and you see the road dirt. Also the fender has been painted and the paint is fairly chipped. It might be an OEM Ford fender, but it's not NOS.
  4. Welcome from the Republic of Texas!
  5. Right on KC. The vacuum canister is a reserve tank usually with a one way valve so it holds a reserve when the dash pots move and need a volume of vacuum. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  6. It's a rear vent hole for excess pressure Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  7. Looking for picture (s). Don't see any attached Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  8. If the top of the fenders were also blacked out, maybe it wouldn't be so hideous.
  9. Hello Ozzie! Welcome to the site from the Republic of Texas! Thank you for your service as a fire fighter.
  10. There are a lot of things wrong with that car. No factory ram air on the 73 cars due to emissions changes. The air cleaner is from a 72, the 73 air cleaner has the tube duct feed from under the battery tray. Wrong side stripes as mentioned paint looks too fresh to be original. Rear spoiler not factory. Mach hood and hood locks not factory. Could keep going but not worth it in my opinion. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  11. They are Kelsey Hayes brake drums, one of the OEM suppliers to Ford. The A71 and P171 are date codes for when they were cast. Might be service replacements.
  12. Welcome from the Republic of Texas Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  13. Checked the firing order it was right, I only changed the distributor cap and rotor.The car will run for 20 seconds and then die. I will pump the accelerator a few times then start. After it stalls I will pump accelerator again several times and then will run again for 20 seconds. Thanks After it dies after running for 20 seconds, pump the accelerator and look into the carburetor bores to see if fuel squirts. If it does, sounds like your carburetor idle circuit is clogged.
  14. Turtle. Thank you. Goodnigh offered me one offline, so you can have this one. I do appreciate the thought. Merry Christmas All. Curtis
  15. Don, I'm looking for a rear deck panel for my '73 convertible. original pn# D1ZZ-7640310-A I looked at the dynacorn site and they don't show it yet. Do you have anything ? Also see Dynacorn shows the 71-73 FB roof panel, pn 3643XL and the roof braces 3643ZF Do you have these yet or know when they'll be available ? Thanks and Merry Christmas. Curtis '73 351C convertible '73 Mach I Q code
  16. If Turtle doesn't take it I definitely will for my '73 'vert build.
  17. What plugs did you use ? What is the gap ? What did you set the points gap to? Did you replace the distributor or the distributor cap and rotor? Are you sure the firing order is correct? If you work the accelerator, does the carb spray fuel into the engine ? If not, the carb isn't getting fuel. Pull the fuel line at the carb, point it into a clean bottle (empty water bottle works well) and spin the engine over a couple of cycles. Make sure you are getting fuel to the carburetor. I suspect you have a fuel delivery problem. probably bad fuel pump. New doesn't always mean good.
  18. Interesting post about Duraspark I. So I am looking at all is needed and I see that the wiring harness from Painless is very expensive compared to the other stuff. Is this needed? are there other options? can this harness be sourced from another car? Did you source all the parts indicated by Mr. Pence in his post? Besides the harness all looks reasonable. Answering some of my own questions, here is an alternative for the Painless harness: from this thread: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1285873-duraspark-harness-connectors-diy.html -Coil connector, NAPA EC238, $7.16 -2 (3) wire connector, NAPA EC72, $19.35 -4 wire connector, NAPA EC127, $19.80 Total would be $46.31 plus some wiring. I found them thru another site in their Standard motor part numbers along with some wire diagrams. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?464032-Build-a-Duraspark-Wiring-harness Coil connector Standard S-583, $6.63 Amazon 3 wire connector Standard S-629 $15.54 Amazon 4 wire connector Standard S-698 $15.74 Amazon
  19. As described above, they are a window anti-rattle clip. You can plasti-dip the new one and they come out almost like original.
  20. It could already be a rebody. Without the front fender aprons there's no telling what that chassis serial # is. That is in very ruff shape. Floorpans gone, part of the roll cage cut away and on and on...
  21. Me too! Still looking for this. Any luck ?
  22. Looks almost like our 351C-2v convertible we bought a few years ago. Med. Yellow exterior with white deluxe interior and gauge package.
  23. I'd suggest contacting Don @ Ohio Mustang. He carries the plenum and is a site sponsor here along with being an all around great guy. www.ohiomustang.com customer_service@ohiomustang.com
  24. Welcome back. Hope you get it all accomplished and life doesn't get in the way again.
  25. Where in Texas are you located? possibly interested in the battery tray and tail light panel, possible the dog dish hubcaps and trim rings.
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