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RacerX

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Everything posted by RacerX

  1. I'm looking for a roller idler arm / bearing for my 73 power steering car. I've looked at open tracker and Chocko stangs websites but don't see them listed. I've also emailed Dan @ Chocko Stang tonight. Any leads or thoughts ? I wanted to do this since I'm freshening up my front suspension. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  2. I'd question that literature. I have a 73 Mach I 351 2v Cleveland car with standard rear shock mounting and I also have a 73 351CJ Mach I with staggered shocks / competition suspension. .I've worked on a good number of these cars thru the years and the 73's only had the competition suspension optional on the Q code cars.
  3. Not entirely true. That would indicate the competition suspension package was ordered on the car.
  4. Order the Marti report on the VIN you have. There is only 1 consecutive unit with that sequential VIN code and it'll tell you the missing information
  5. More than likely the snap ring on the countershaft or mainshaft wasn't seated properly to hold the gears in place and they backed off. I had this happen years ago before I started building my own T5's and had one built by a local shop. After getting the car back together and the student driving it to college, 5th gear quit just like you described. I had to pull the trans back out to get the shop to fix it. After that I swore I wouldn't depend on a professional shop building a proper transmission again.
  6. Bracket not needed on our cars. only earlier cars with the slave hydraulic cylinder on the drag link attached to the chassis, they need a drop bracket.
  7. The lock "something" pin is your steering column lock. It won't allow you to remove your key until the shift lever is in park, nor can you move the lever out of park without the key in the ignition and engine started. I'd strongly suggest spraying the transmission with a degreaser and then power washing it. Then pull the trans pan, valve body and replace the shift shaft seals. reassemble with a new filter and gasket. That should take care of any pan leaks
  8. Jam a screwdriver in between the timing chain and gear on the left side to lock the crank then remove the bolt.
  9. They warn against leaving the ignition key on with the engine not running. That will cause the pertronix to burn out. I think they solved that issue with the pertronix III, but I'm not certain.
  10. I'm interested in the brake booster and aluminum slots. Pics? Curtis Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  11. What about just using longer mounting bolts and standoffs for the e-brake bracket to space it away from the kick panel? Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
  12. Are they leaking at all ? Push down on a bumper and watch the bounce. If it settles after the rebound, they are fine. if it bounces more than the up movement after your downward push, you might consider replacing them. If they are replaced, it's usually a good idea to align the front suspension, but not absolutely required in my opinion. Personally you might check another shop's opinion. Sounds like this one might be creating work for themselves.
  13. So sorry for your loss David. It doesn't follow the natural order of things for one of your children to pass before you.
  14. Mike, It comes to the ignition switch mounted on top of the steering column. FYI, the wiring diagrams are on this site, under the Data tab on top of the page. Curtis
  15. Does the car have a factory tach / tach harness and the tach is unplugged??? The factory tachometer interrupts the voltage and senses current to run the tach. You can "jump" the connector to start the engine with the tach not connected . It's the same red/green wire inside the dash. HTH, Curtis
  16. For the right price, it's still a 65-66 fastback underneath. I'd buy it for the right price and pull all the crap off and build it right.
  17. Welcome from Texas! Love the yellow.
  18. That right side under floor shot shows extensive rust! The right side rear torque box is ready to rip out of the floor. 1 good launch (if the engine can manage it) will rip the spring away from the frame. It has a 302 sticker on the air cleaner but has 351C heads and valve covers.
  19. Car looks and shows fantastic! Good luck with the sale. Curtis
  20. Ouch! Looks like it was run into a cable fence on the right rear. The cable won that battle. Hope the owner is found so they can at least have their car back.
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