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About 71Mach

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    64.5 Mustang Coupe
    65 Mustang Coupe
    68 Shelby GT500KR
    70 Boss 429
    71 Mach 1
    86 Mustang GT
    91 Saleen Convert
    03 Cobra Convert
    07 GT500


  • Location
    Anniston, AL.
  • Region
    Not Selected

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  1. My Oct 70 build date had double. My march 71 build date has the single. That helps me, at least, since my car was built in May. Thanks!
  2. I would try a new radiator cap before doing anything else. It can be that simple. It's happened to me before. The cap can look good, but if it's weak, or leaks any pressure at all that makes the boiling point of the coolant much lower. The coolant will heat soak in the block after its shut off, and begin to boil. Result: green garage floor!
  3. Anyone know what the transition date was when they went from the double, to single support?
  4. Got my new Data tag from Marti. Guess mine is faded? Hope so!
  5. The bad stuff went north, and south of Anniston.
  6. Great job on the cowls, M, and Eric! I feel for ya! Glad thats out of the way right? Here's to dry floor pans!::beer::
  7. Some great Ideas, and info being posted here, lets hear some more! While there are only a handful of posters, I know there are a lot of folks learning from your experiences, and knowledge. How about posting some cleaning techniques, and tools for getting after that nasty stuff! M is absolutely right, prep is the key. You have to get the metal as pristine as possible, for best results. Sometimes that is easy, sometimes hard, sometimes impossible. That is what is exciting about sharing our experiences with products that are effective for different levels of oxidation. Sadly, P
  8. OK! We're off to a great start. I like Q's triage approach at assessing the areas, and share his desire to "never do a rusted out car again"! If you haven't checked out M's PDF about Amerlock, it's worth a look. It seems to be a 2 part epoxy, which sounds good. Also, he has 20 years working with it, a good selling point. http://www.7173mustangs.com/attachment.php?aid=6605 Pappy's link to a 4x4 forum discussion led me to this too: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm The Ospho is available at hardware stores. It's a rust conversion process, that looks interest
  9. Let's talk about RUST! :@ I thought I'd start separate thread about everybody's least favorite thing...RUST. A place where everyone can share success stories, ideas, as well as share info on stuff that doesn't work so much. Iv'e been working on Mustangs for 35 years now, and have come to this conclusion: In a perfect world, taking it down to bare clean metal, followed by quality epoxy primer is the best solution. Unfortunately, this isn't always possible. There are several products on the market today that claim to stop the process. I've noticed on this Forum that there are a
  10. Thanks for the compliments. I need to dress the top, then I plan to use Eastwood rust encapsulator on both pieces, I've had good luck with it in the past. I cleaned both parts as best I could, but there are still some pitts, so I'm hoping that will keep it down.
  11. I pulled the cowl cover back off, and finished the bottom last night. Guess Dynacorn is going to wait until we all finish our cars to come out with a cowl. Oh well.... Here are a couple of before and after shots. What a relief!!!
  12. +1 on 3M Fast n Firm. By far the best I've tried. You can duplicate even the heaviest factory application with no shrinking or cracking later. I's all I use now. I like to put a thin bead down first, and force it in with my finger, then follow up right away with a nice bead for a factory look.
  13. Hey all, For whatever reason, my inflator bracket was removed by a prior owner. This is the bracket that is welded to the passenger side of the trunk floor. Anyone??? thanks Charlie.
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