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71Mach

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Everything posted by 71Mach

  1. My Oct 70 build date had double. My march 71 build date has the single. That helps me, at least, since my car was built in May. Thanks!
  2. I would try a new radiator cap before doing anything else. It can be that simple. It's happened to me before. The cap can look good, but if it's weak, or leaks any pressure at all that makes the boiling point of the coolant much lower. The coolant will heat soak in the block after its shut off, and begin to boil. Result: green garage floor!
  3. Anyone know what the transition date was when they went from the double, to single support?
  4. Got my new Data tag from Marti. Guess mine is faded? Hope so!
  5. The bad stuff went north, and south of Anniston.
  6. Great job on the cowls, M, and Eric! I feel for ya! Glad thats out of the way right? Here's to dry floor pans!::beer::
  7. Some great Ideas, and info being posted here, lets hear some more! While there are only a handful of posters, I know there are a lot of folks learning from your experiences, and knowledge. How about posting some cleaning techniques, and tools for getting after that nasty stuff! M is absolutely right, prep is the key. You have to get the metal as pristine as possible, for best results. Sometimes that is easy, sometimes hard, sometimes impossible. That is what is exciting about sharing our experiences with products that are effective for different levels of oxidation. Sadly, Pappy is also correct in that, the best you can do is still only postponing the inevitable. Steel is an unstable product that by nature wants to return to it's original state. Anyone who "knows" they can make something last forever by brushing, rolling, or spraying something on rust is only fooling themselves. Also, I'd like to hear from anyone planning to scratch their car to the bare metal, and park it in salt water after it's been restored. Anyone??? OK, how about those planning to buy snow tires, and put that front spoiler to use as a snow plow? Well?? I didn't think so..... Lab tests are interesting, but exposing a product to severe damage, in an environment that it will never be exposed to, is a useless test. From the lab tests I've seen so far, all had damage, none have really survived. In all fairness though, they were never designed to. That's OK, because they will NEVER SEE PUNISHMENT LIKE THAT ON OUR CARS. The only place these rust inhibiting products are applied are internal. If we have learned anything from the restoration process, we know that we have to keep these areas clean. Plus, after all of our hard work, the worst our cars will see is an accidental rain shower, or occasionally be parked outside overnight. The damage we are repairing on our cars is the product of years of neglect. I believe there are products out there that with proper application, followed by protection from the elements, will result in a great looking car for as long as you own it. Mark, keep us posted on the pot, I love real world testing! CP
  8. OK! We're off to a great start. I like Q's triage approach at assessing the areas, and share his desire to "never do a rusted out car again"! If you haven't checked out M's PDF about Amerlock, it's worth a look. It seems to be a 2 part epoxy, which sounds good. Also, he has 20 years working with it, a good selling point. http://www.7173mustangs.com/attachment.php?aid=6605 Pappy's link to a 4x4 forum discussion led me to this too: http://www.ospho.com/directions.htm The Ospho is available at hardware stores. It's a rust conversion process, that looks interesting. The product instructions seem to have some concerns with epoxy topcoats though. How many other products don't we know about yet???? Chime in! Charlie.
  9. Let's talk about RUST! :@ I thought I'd start separate thread about everybody's least favorite thing...RUST. A place where everyone can share success stories, ideas, as well as share info on stuff that doesn't work so much. Iv'e been working on Mustangs for 35 years now, and have come to this conclusion: In a perfect world, taking it down to bare clean metal, followed by quality epoxy primer is the best solution. Unfortunately, this isn't always possible. There are several products on the market today that claim to stop the process. I've noticed on this Forum that there are a lot of Rust Bullet fans out there. I've used Eastwood products with good results in the past, but I also want to use the best products I can find. Let's pool our knowledge and experiences here! I did a little investigating online, and found this: http://www.drjing.com/Mini/BLOG/SideBySide.htm Looks like it was a pretty good test, with our large member base, let's share our info, and kick butt on rust! Charlie.
  10. Thanks for the compliments. I need to dress the top, then I plan to use Eastwood rust encapsulator on both pieces, I've had good luck with it in the past. I cleaned both parts as best I could, but there are still some pitts, so I'm hoping that will keep it down.
  11. I pulled the cowl cover back off, and finished the bottom last night. Guess Dynacorn is going to wait until we all finish our cars to come out with a cowl. Oh well.... Here are a couple of before and after shots. What a relief!!!
  12. +1 on 3M Fast n Firm. By far the best I've tried. You can duplicate even the heaviest factory application with no shrinking or cracking later. I's all I use now. I like to put a thin bead down first, and force it in with my finger, then follow up right away with a nice bead for a factory look.
  13. Hey all, For whatever reason, my inflator bracket was removed by a prior owner. This is the bracket that is welded to the passenger side of the trunk floor. Anyone??? thanks Charlie.
  14. I have a Driver's side that was sold to me as a Fastback, but turns out it's not. Look at the pictures. It's about as nice as you'll find, I think. I circled a couple spots with a sharpie that will need some attention. If you need one, it's yours for $50 plus shipping. Charlie.
  15. Thanks Don. What do you look for to tell the difference? I know the fastbacks are shorter, but what makes the convertible different? Charlie
  16. I have a Driver's side that was sold to me as a Fastback, but turns out it's not. Look at the pictures, as I'm not sure if there's a difference between the coupe and convertible. It's about as nice as you'll find, I think. I bead blasted it and marked a couple spots with a sharpie that will need some attention. If you need one, it's yours for $50 plus shipping. Charlie.
  17. I had that in my left elbow a few years back. Had the surgery, and it worked 100%. About a week of pills, then 3 more weeks before I could get back in the shop.
  18. Welcome from East Alabama! ::welcome::
  19. I was really excited to find these two mint quarter windows yesterday. Then I noticed that they are clear, and I have Sun-X (tinted) in my car. Up for grabs, $25 each. Buy both, and I'll pay shipping 48 states.
  20. If you don't have a set yet, I can help. I have 2 in white. $20.00 shipped. I can ship them today, if you promise to send a check. Charlie
  21. Still toiling away with my cowl repairs.....:s The bottom cowl is mostly done, need to pull the top back off now and clean everything up. Then hang the front clip, then the floors, then... then... etc. Enjoying everyone else's progress, thought I'd chime in. Congrats to Roy, awesome job!
  22. Just a bump. Still looking for some nice power door windows, tinted, a Master Switch bezel, and window lock switch. The switches are the larger 71 only style. Charlie.
  23. Just checked out your website, very impressive! Wish I was that far along....... Oh yes, great color combination too!
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