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iceberg65

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  • My Car
    72 mustang Mach 1
    351c 4v auto

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    Medicine Hat, AB
  • Region
    Canada

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  1. It was a while back now but I did get this thing out racing a 3rd time a while back; ended up 3rd in points in the street class for the year (one round away from 2nd but I red lit by just a hair) I did manage a 14.5@99.8 mph out of the bolt on low compression 4v cleveland, not too shabby, and a good base to build on. Pretty sure some drag radials alone will save almost half a second off; but incoming is a spool for the rear and and reworked CC heads as well as a soild cam for next year. Now I have to decided weather I should put all this stuff into the old 2v motor out of it, or into the good running motor that's in it now. a teardown of the old one may be in order to decide.
  2. Awesome thread, from what I see by your mph the launch is holding you back a bit but not too terribly, my 4v OC cleveland ran 14.5 @99.8mph with a DA around 2700 (stock heads and bottom end, headers, torker intake ezefi throttle body) this year with worse 60' then you; I know that my main issue is tires (using cheap street 275's to get it running) Just that would probably get the Cleveland to around the same 14.1 right now I have to launch super soft or it just blows off the tires. Mine is an auto with stall though. My goal for next year is to break into the 12's as well, not necessarily 12.5 but I want it to run at least what my Taurus does (12.7@110) my plan is to go to the CC heads with adjustable valve-train, a bit of port cleanup and new single groove valves which should up compression to near 10:1 and going to a solid flat tappet cam. I know thats what was holding my motor back as the hydralic cam in it is large but I dont have enough compression for it and it wants to have a power band higher then I want to rev the stock valve-train. Oh, and good drag radials. I also like the idea of getting a car running awesome on old iron heads. So it sounds like a good plan to go about it getting some more power out of the 429 should be easy enough, the bit of extra port work and camming for more top end; paired with a bit more aggressive launch should be able to cut a lot of time off. Heck I cut over a second off my car from the first race to the last on just tuning items (mostly ignition stuff). If it still needs a bit of extra help their's always nitrous ;)
  3. Got up to Calgary over the weekend and hit the pick n pull and came out with a 3.50 gear 31 spline 9" posi center section that will fit right in the mustang for $100. Plan on swapping it in after the next race weekend to keep it going while I look at re clutching the posi that's in it now with the 4.11's Also picked up the book on building clevelands for $20 at Mopac!
  4. The strips website put up a decent little shot of me just before the burn out too. Thought it was worth sharing. Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
  5. Been a while so I have some more updates I got the car running much better since switching to a different distributor with large cap adapter and re-curving it, and put in a start retard computer to get my initial timing up and took it back to the strip; The little changes made up the grunt I felt I was missing, I ran a 14.8@95.6 which is in line to what I was expecting out of it (I think It would have done better on the tail end of the evening but I had to lift a few times as I was bracket racing and didn't get any real test runs in the cooler evening as I placed 2nd that night. Our track is at a pretty high altitude; the DA for when I was running was at 5023ft. It was somewhat tricky to get a good launch out of it with my not so sticky back tires and 3000 stall. It just wanted to break loose on any hard launch. I lost the final as I broke out by 0.09 seconds while on the brake at the finish line. Also, I picked up a pair of closed chamber 4v heads in great shape to build up and replace my OC ones on the car now. Planning to do 7/16 studs and harland sharp rockers with some single groove valves; looks like alex's parts are out of the big valves right now though, hopefully they're back in stock reasonably soon. I probably wont be doing the head swap till winter hits so I have plenty of time. how do you guys feel about doing hardened seats in them, my old set of cc heads had them all done but if I can get away with just exhaust seats then Im down to save a few bucks. The current seats are in excellent shape on the heads.
  6. Well I took the Mach 1 to the strip; I was expecting it to run pretty slow but it was even a bit slower then I was expecting. The car has a pretty good sized Erson cam (I don't have the card but I believe the specs to be a hydraulic 296* duration cam with .545 lift on a 108* lobe separation (have pic of markings on the cam) It has a Edlebrock Torker single plane intake and Fast ezefi 1.0 as well as Hooker longtube headers and simple straight pile 3" dual exhaust. Motor is completely stock refreshed bottom end and OC 4v heads. The trans is a c6 rebuilt with a transgo reprogramming shift kit and a 3000 stall converter, rear end is a 4:11 ford 9 posi. The car could only manage a 16.1@ 88mph I was expecting high 14's to low 15's. It feels like the car is just getting to where it wants to be rpm wise when I have to shift at 6200rpm (stock valves I dont really want to push any harder then that) Realistically I feel like it would run faster on a smaller cam; the one in it now only makes 7 inHg at idle, the duration is fairly small but its on a tighter lobe separation. The current motor with the stock pistons and OC heads just dont seem to have the compression to work with the cam as it's supposed to. Either way; I'm planning on some head once I decide I want to park it for the season; I'd love to find a good price on closed chamber heads (or head as I have one good one) but I definitely want better valves in whatever I'm running; thats what killed my good motor like 10 years back. The good news is, the car ran quite consistently and gave me zero mechanical issues as far as reliability goes; and bringing this thing to the strip means I've met every goal that I had set to achieve with it this year! But that time makes me feel like its running at lower then stock power; It does make some noise from what sounds like the lifter area. I ran a compression test and they were mostly around the 132psi mark, lowest being 122 and highest at 136.
  7. 87fox72mach sent me out his extra seatbelt shoulder straps for nothing more then the cost of shipping, good communication throughout and kept me posted on what to expect. Thanks again!
  8. I'm running fast efi 1.0 The car runs better then it did with the 750dp but still has a few quirks due to the low vacuum (6-7inHg at idle). Cold start is ok but you need to keep it running for the first 15 seconds or so. the system supports up to 650hp. I'm running on a 4v OC Cleveland with Torker single plane intake and a pretty big erson cam. Power band is great, runs nice and smooth and fuel mileage is noticeably better (haven't calculated though) Running it off a full return fuel system that I built feeding off factory feed line and returning to a bung I Added. Feed is braided SS Teflon, and return is adapted to the factory fuel line with the braided ss line. Pro's Cheap (got mine used) although not compared to some other budget setups. F.A.S.T was one of the first to use a system like this, they have quite a good reputation. Throttle body is compact enough to use a drop base air cleaner due to the external ecu (an often overlooked item as far as hood clearance goes.) can control fan (one output) can control fuel pump Cons: no ignition control no boost support dated handheld (does the job though and there is an upgrade option) no laptop tuning no cam profile selection no (official) nitrous support Other thoughts; it would be nice to be able to turn off the learning function for some circumstances; or revert back to some form of saved file. (if you ever get an exhaust leak it will basicly make itit practically inoperable)
  9. I'm running fast efi 1.0 The car runs better then it did with the 750dp but still has a few quirks due to the low vacuum (6-7inHg at idle). Cold start is ok but you need to keep it running for the first 15 seconds or so. the system supports up to 650hp. I'm running on a 4v OC Cleveland with Torker single plane intake and a pretty big erson cam. Power band is great, runs nice and smooth and fuel mileage is noticeably better (haven't calculated though) Running it off a full return fuel system that I built feeding off factory feed line and returning to a bung I Added. Feed is braided SS Teflon, and return is adapted to the factory fuel line with the braided ss line. Pro's Cheap (got mine used) F.A.S.T was one of the first to use a system like this, they have quite a good reputation. Throttle body is compact enough to use a drop base air cleaner due to the external ecu (an often overlooked item as far as hood clearance goes.) can control fan (one output) can control fuel pump Cons: no ignition control no boost support dated handheld (does the job though and there is an upgrade option) no laptop tuning no cam profile selection no (official) nitrous support Other thoughts; it would be nice to be able to turn off the learning function for some circumstances; or revert back to some form of saved file. (if you ever get an exhaust leak it will basicly make itit practically inoperable)
  10. The shoulder belts showed up yesterday, thank you very much; you've been a pleasure to deal with :)
  11. They have come a long way and the 2.0 system is much nicer then what I have, I am still very happy with how its performing for the money I've spent though. My setup cant control timing electronically; in the future I may look at getting a programmable ignition box though, for the time being I get to tune timing the old school way.
  12. It has a map sensor but no controls in the system I have. The 1.0 system really is pretty bare bones as it was one of the first reliable setups on the market. You can get a handheld upgrade that opens up some additional setting options though; and it's a much nicer touch screen. I got the system I'm using used for a good price, otherwise I'd probably have gotten the sniper setup. Just checked my timing; its around 14* at idle and 37* by about 3800rpm pulling 7 inHg vacuum at idle.
  13. I never considered the differences in ratios for e10 fuels jbojo; I currently would have a mix of E10 and pure gas in my car (closest station to me has the up to 10% ethanol stickers on the pumps, but the previous gas was straight gas) Some great info there. The ezefi 1.0 doesn't have cam profile settings, it does however seem to be compensating rather well for the lobey cam, it hasn't died on me once in traffic; it does still need a bit of pedal to keep it up on a cold start though (very minimal). I don't have a vacuum advance to hook up. I'll eventually get a different distributor, but for the time being the car is running very well, I only got the popping at cruise a couple times after a while down the highway. Hence why I was going to enrich my cruise ratio a bit. Also worth mentioning that I have the little green stall in my car (~2800 stall) and 4:11 gears
  14. Vacuum gauge sounds like a good idea to me. I have one handy and ready to go. This thing only pulled like 8in of vacuum off the holley 750dp the sensor is according to where it should be and I just did good gaskets for safe measure Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
  15. I run my supercharged 4 cylinder cougar at 14.7 at cruise, this car just doesn't seem to like it. I may try leaning it out too and see what works best. My system can't control timing, and I'm running of a dizzy without vacuum advance at the moment. I'd have to put the light on it to get exact timing readings, and I know my balancer markings are off a bit Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
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