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    73 Mach 1 351C 2V
    Edelbrock 600CFM & intake Manifold


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  1. Hi all, finally I made some progress with my engine. Last week we pulled it out and had a look inside. As I read lots of horror stories, I was expecting to see a worst case scenrio inside, since I really had not much luck yet with my car... But in general I was surprised in a almost positive way! Right Engine Side: Left Engine Side: On the left side there are some light marks where the valves "touched" the pistons 1, 2 and 4. But the valves seem to be relatively OK as at least nothing was broken apart. When I pulled out the pushrods, I was happy to find them still in good shape as they have not bent and the cylinders do not show any scratches. Below some detailed pics on the affected pistons and valves. Cylinder 1: Cylinder 2: Cylinder 4: Will continue soon to disassemble the cylinder heads to check if the valves have been bent. Considering the "minor" marks on the pistons, I was wonderig if I do need new ones - just to be on the safe side. Or if should "only" change the pistons rings as well as all the bearings and gaskets... With regards to the the root cause of my current issue, I was wondering that the broken timing chain seems to be much thinner than the sealed power spare part I bought in the meanwhile. Has anyone seen comparable thin timing chains? will keep you posted... Thanks Andreas
  2. Thanks! Assumed that would be the ratio. Actually the whole car was jacked up, so both wheel where free. But only the one I was turning moved.
  3. Checked the ratio. 1 rotation of the wheel turns the yoke 1.5 times
  4. Also time to look forward... my thoughts and questions about the engine rebuild: -> http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-engine-rebuild-after-broken-timing-chain
  5. Any hint how i can find that out? Not to my knowledge so far - when I got it also the intake manifold was stock and a smaller Holley 500 carb was installed. But I'll see once we take the heads off any recommendation on parts?
  6. Hi all, since I have the confirmation of a broken timing chain (as well a damaged harmonic balancer) I started to think about a rebuild of my engine once I pulled it completely out of the car over the upcoming winter. -> http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-engine-timing-chain-is-broken Car is a 73 Mach1 351C 2V - currently with Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifold, Edelbrock 600CFM Carburator, automatic transmission, don't know the gear ratio. Seems there are one trillion of choices to be made. I don't aim to build a 500hp race car, only drive on the streets in Bavaria but enjoy if the car makes me feel it has "sufficient" power... So, making the long story short, from what I read so far I drafted an initial shopping cart: 1) Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kits (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/fem-csmhp732-311) (will have see if I can use standard size or need machine zylinders depending on their condition ) 2) COMP Camshaft Kit 270H K32-421-8 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/cca-k32-421-8) 3) COMP Cams High Energy Pushrods 7825-16 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/cca-7825-16) 4) COMP Cams High Energy Die-Cast Aluminum Rocker Arms 17045-16 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/cca-17045-16) 5) ARP High Performance Series Rocker Arm Studs 135-7101 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/arp-135-7101) 6) COMP Cams Guide Plates 4514SP-1 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/cca-4514sp-1/overview/) 7) COMP Cams Retro Fit Hydraulic Roller Lifter Kits 31-1000 (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/cca-31-1000/overview/) 8) Pioneer Street Performance Balancers 872007 https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pio-872007/overview/make/ford 9) Hooker Competition Headers 6913HKR (https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/hok-6913hkr/overview/make/ford) 10) valves and hardened valve seats (but no specific article found yet - any recomendation?) For the time being I thought about not changing the cylinder heads - Thought about CHI 3V or Edelbrock for a while. But eventhough it would be cool, I think I don't need the extra power and that would be another $2.000 +shipping +import taxes. So if the stock cylinder heads can work with the above combination I'd prefer to stick with them and keep also the current intake manifold and carburator. What I was also wondering is, if the size/length of pushrods and studs have to be measured individually or if there are specific lenghts that will fit to the above combination!? Since I would have to order all parts to be delivered to Germany that would cause longer idle times if I have to order, measure and wait for the next order... Any thought's, comments, hints based on your experience? Thanks Andreas
  7. Hi piper62, Actually the shop was right. The the chain is broken and the balancer got damaged as well. I've posted pics from the weekend when we opened the engine. Maybe the points got dmaged afterwards when I tried to start the engine a couple of times... Thanks Andreas
  8. so, finally we had the chance to take a first look at the engine. And in fact, the timing chain is broken. :( will pull the engine out of the car in a couple of weeks and then looking further what happened to the pistons and valves. Thought about replacing the cylinder heads with Edelbrock Performer RPM Complete Cylinder Heads as well the matching Edelbrock cam or a Comp Cams kit. Probably also getting a Federal Mogul rebuild kit with forged pistons etc. if the engine is anyway open. Does anyone know if I have to swap my current Edelbrock Intake Manifold for the Performer RPM? I don't want to make a race engine. just want to have a reliable, strong engine for the street... But after today, it seems christmas won't have a lot of presents for rest of the family this year...
  9. It doesn't spin, that's how they started to conclude the chain is broken once they replaced the damaged point set and wondered why it's not starting.. But I don't know if they pulled the distributor to check e.g if the distributor itself broke...
  10. Hi all, Thanks a lot for the great comments and hints. Will let you know what's wrong once we have time to look at the car in a couple of weeks. Will check the distributor and compression first... Thanks Andreas
  11. Last weekend my engine went off after I was starting to go for a ride with my Mustang and was just about to leave my town. It sounded like backfire, but the engine went off and did not start again. Sound was normal when I turned the key, just the ignition seemed to be missing. First finding from my garage was, the point set in the distributor was broken. So they replaced it, but called back the next day and told me crankshaft doesn't move and it seems the engine timing chain is broken. Now the engine needs to be disassembled to check what has been damaged inside Since that would cost a fortune in that mustang specialized garage, I am planning to do that with a friend of mine who is a mechanic... Now I thought if the engine (351C 2V) is anyway disassembled it makes sense to do a proper rebuild and replace some of the old parts before they break next spring as well. Any recommendations for a engine rebuild kit, specific spare parts or even nice and useful improvements? So far I already changed the intake manifold and carburetor to Edelbrock parts (600cfm) Thanks from Germany Andreas
  12. Wonder why the seller just inserted the car at mobile.de for 24.900 EUR ? http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=226402765
  13. I would be surprised if it's a real Mach 1 in proper shape. The price is at the lowest end of Mach 1 price scale in Germany. Usually they vary between 20 and 30k... Andreas
  14. At the end I still had to pay for it ;) It has a 351C 2V - I bought an Edelbrock performer intake manifold as well as the 600 carburetor with manual choke to replace the orig manifold with 500 Holley earlier this year when I was in then US. You can buy most items here in DE as well, but due to shipping and taxes for a much higher price... Last import I did was a remanfucatred steering gear box. It has the standard automatic transmition, would prefer manual though.
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