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Everything posted by Vicus

  1. Klaus, I believe 3C30 wants to tell you, that your engine block was cast on a Friday. Cheers Frank
  2. Great pictures. I like it!
  3. To narrow down the possible error, your information is unfortunately not sufficient for me so far. The crystal ball remains cloudy. I assume the noise is in sync with your engine speeds, right? Since you still have good oil pressure, I'm ruling out a loose main bearing bracket or a loosened oil pick up. You won't get around removing the oil pan.
  4. Looks really disastrous. Sorry for the damage of your engine. Frank
  5. Looks like my first Mustang. Same color. Was a 73 too, but with the flat hood due to its F code engine.
  6. You live in a country where such treasures can still be found on the side of the road, in barns or in fields, and where you can buy them for a fair amount. That's what we dream of on the other side of the big pond. Here, you can't find Mustangs to stripe without paying a fortune for them. Frank
  7. Is there a list in the book that gives the dimensions of each spring, i.e. length, diameter, wire gauge and spring rate? If so, I would be pleased if you could also copy and display this list. Frank
  8. That's a really good source for everyone who's planning to service his FMX by himself. Thank you very much for sharing. Frank
  9. Factory tach needs feed via resistance wire. Unresisted 12V feed will damage it. Frank
  10. Yes, a Pertronix ignitor 1 runs with the resisted voltage but it runs better with full 12V. If you want to keep your standard coil and resistant wire you just need to install a relay for the switched 12V feed. Attention! Keep in mind that you can blow a Pertronix Ignitor 1 very fast when ignition is on but engine is not running. Frank
  11. Spike, I completely agree with you. The new cars are beautiful, they're fast, mostly reliable and get me to my destination and back home again without any major problems. But if I'm looking for emotions when driving, I'm looking for them in the wrong place. When I'm on the road in a classic car, it's always the driving that takes center stage. Maybe my back hurts when I arrive at my destination, maybe I have a hard time getting out of the car, but I still feel joy when I'm on the road in a classic Mustang. I am not cut off from the outside world by insulation, a special chassis or thick upholstery but feel every pebble on the road and every little bump. Even the driving noises reach my ears unfiltered. It is driving with all senses. To drive the Mustang over the back roads, it is important that the suspension and springs are well maintained and that the steering and brakes function without play. Then I prefer the classic Mustang to all new cars. I attribute a soul to my Mustang that the new cars undoubtedly lack. To answer the in-depth question: yes I would buy a Mustang again and yes it would again be one from 1971 to 1973. Frank
  12. Search for Kenneth Collins from badshoe productions. His tutorial videos about overhauling FMX transmissions saved me a lot of money. Cheers Frank
  13. I don't think so. Length of the drive shaft might be the same but you need a different version of the slip yoke. Output shaft C4 needs slip yoke with 28 splines. Output shaft FMX needs slip yoke with 31 splines. Cheers Frank
  14. Welcome from Germany Cheers Frank
  15. A = sealant 1 = cowl top panel 3 = body / fire wall
  16. Vinnie according to the Jim Osborn Assembly Manual, there is a layer of sealant between the upper and lower part of the cowl, exact at the same location where the weld spots are. Cheers Frank
  17. The cables should be lubricated from time to time with acid-free bicycle or sewing machine oil. WD 40 or gun oil have also proven effective here. Grease should not be used, because it gums up at some point and then nothing works. Cheers Frank
  18. Here's a picture of the bolt set. The lock washer belongs to the long bolt. Cheers Frank
  19. Strange thing! I'm sure I posted a thread that I'm looking for back plates and I remember that I got two answers but cannot find this thread anymore. As I want to finish what I've started and tell what has happened, here is the short version: I found a long-established car dealer here in Germany who, when a customer wanted front disc brakes instead of drum brakes for his Ford Mustang, did not scrap the dismantled drum brakes but stacked them in his spare parts store. In the last few days I have rummaged through the whole pile and finally found a single pair of the correct anchor plates. Fortunately, they were in a condition where I didn't have to recondition anything. As I've done the whole search by myself, the price he has asked for was very affordable. Frank
  20. Disassembled the front brakes, changed the anchor plates, installed new wheel brake cylinders and hoses, got the air out of the system and headed for a test drive. Everything's fine again. All new and functional. Test drive to the next ice cream parlor with a friend, following in a 67 Coupe. As you see I live in a rural area and the way leads very often through the woods. Frank
  21. Russ My crystal ball is still a little cloudy. Some pictures of that plate and some others showing your engine would be really helpful. Frank
  22. Mike My first Mustang was a late 1973 Mach1 with a 302-2V engine. Body color was dark blue metallic and it had a blue vinyl top. Frank
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