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Gene K.

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About Gene K.

  • Birthday 09/20/1957

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    1972 Mach 1


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  1. The Fuse Block on my 1971 is cracked in half. Is an aftermarket replacement available? Does anyone have a good used replacement?
  2. It appears to be factory black paint. Gene K.
  3. This air cleaner was in the trunk of the '72 Mach 1 with a 351C-2V I bought a few years ago. It is missing the snorkel and does not have any markings that I can see. It looks like a 1970's vintage Ford part to me. It uses a 13" OD air filter. Does anyone recognize it? Anyone interested in it? It needs a new home.
  4. I talked to the shop that rebuilt my transmission today. The technician said he always puts the oil feed hole down when there is a choice. I installed the bushing that way today. Using the installation tool, a lot of patience and light taps, it went in without damaging it. Periodically heating the extension housing with a propane torch just enough to keep it warm seemed to help the bushing go in easier.
  5. I couldn't get in touch with the shop that did my transmission so I called a different one I know. The person there said it had been so many years since he had worked on an FMX that he couldn't remember all the details. What he did say was that there is very low stress on extension housing bushings. They normally don't wear out so they are not necessarily replaced during a rebuild. Of course he normally does not work on 42 year old transmissions either. He remembers transmissions from the fifties that just used a bronze bushing with no lubrication holes at all. He said it probably won't matter which slot I line the hole up with. Given that, I will probably just put the new one in with the hole on the lower slot like the one that came out. I will try to call the original shop again tomorrow to see if I can get another opinion. Correct. There are two grooves or slots in the extension housing that run more than the length of the bushing. (See photo) The notches in the bushing help align the hole with the slot, but they do not line up with the slots. They are offset a bit. The notches face the rear of the transmission so you can see them as the bushing goes in. I think the factory tool may have had pins that engaged the notches and rails that engaged the slots to keep the bushing going in correctly. Perhaps that is why there is no mention of orientation in the manuals as there would be only one way to install it. The tires are definitely a possibility too. They are old and came with the car. The reason I have not replaced them is I am waiting for new, different size wheels from JEGS. The original ship date when I ordered was 3/09/2014 and they now pushed that back to 6/17/2014 due to factory issues. If I would have known that when I ordered... Also if you are going to do this yourself without removing the extension housing, you will definitely need the extraction and installation tools. Atec P/N T-0161-A or T-0161-B. It takes quite a bit of force to remove the bushing. Trying to install the bushing without the tool will likely result in a mushroomed edge or bulge in the bushing making installation of the slip yoke very difficult or impossible. I have heard shops sometimes have to hone the bushing after installation which requires removal of the extension housing. I will find out soon.
  6. Thanks for trying. None of my manuals, including my Chilton's Auto Trans manual for a variety of transmissions, give any indication for any transmission. I guess it is something they assume you just put it back the way it was installed and don't ask questions. I will ask one of the local transmission shops on Monday to see if I can get an answer.
  7. What is the correct alignment for the fluid feed hole in the bushing that goes into the transmission extension housing? This is for an FMX transmission. There are two slots in the extension housing. One near the top and one at the bottom. The old bushing was installed with the feed hole at the bottom. It makes more sense to me to put it at the top so the fluid feeds from the top and drains out the bottom. Of course if the hole is actually a drain hole, it belongs at the bottom. I can't find any reference to alignment in the shop manuals. A few more notes and questions: The C6 uses the same bushing, so if anyone has experience replacing one in a C6, that may help. The transmission was rebuilt by a local shop less than 700 miles ago and was working fine. I started getting vibrations that would come and go at highway speeds and they got worse every time I drove it. The 8 inch rear end and possibly the drive shaft were replaced by the previous owner. (He took lots of "short cuts" with everything he did so I have had to fix many things. You can see one of them with the wire supporting the E-Brake cable to make it clear the exhaust in the photo. It is on my list of things to fix…) As it was working fine, I figured the balance on the driveshaft was okay. The U-joints all seem tight. However, the extension housing bushing felt too loose to me because I could move the yolk enough to get a small gap between it and the seal. Yes, it leaked even though it was a new seal. Looking at the length of the driveshaft (51" CL to CL on the U-joints), it appeared to me to be too short. The slip yolk was extended 2" from where it bottoms on the spline shaft and my theory is the extra leverage on the bushing caused it to fail. I have a 52" drive shaft on order from CJ Pony Parts which will give me about 1" of extension which from I have read is a more typical number. Question: When replacing the driveshaft, I can have the slip yolk and drive shaft balanced as an assembly, but what about the pinion yolk? Should it be balanced with the rest of the assembly? Thanks, Gene K.
  8. My schematics do show a R-Y(H) going to a Throttle Solenoid Positioner and a BR-O (H) wire going to an Emission Vacuum Solenoid which makes sense given they are grouped with the other wires going to the top on the engine. The brown with yellow dots is not the one that goes to the PRND lamp which does have a white bullet connector on it. This wire is in a different location and has a black bullet connector on it. From there it goes to a female spade lug connector in a black rectangular plastic housing. It does not seem to affect anything I have found yet, so I won't worry about it for now. Thanks
  9. I am cleaning up the mess on my ‘72 Mach 1 (351C 2V, FMX trans, factory A/C) that the previous owners made of the engine bay wiring harness. I have three wires that I can’t identify where they originally went to. The first is a single wire coming out of a grommet in the upper center portion of the firewall. It appears to be brown with yellow dots. It does not appear to have power on it when the ignition is “on.” The second two wires are on a connector that is next to the engine harness connector. They go through the firewall into the passenger compartment. One wire is red with yellow hash marks and the other is brown with orange hash marks. The red one has power when the ignition is in the “on” position. Is it possible these are emissions or cruise control related? If so, all of that is long gone. I tried to upload pictures, but it didn't seem to work. Thanks, Gene K.
  10. Thanks Chuck. Unfortunately none of my coat hangers were reinstalled either. From the photos it appears the attachment point is about 2 inches to the rear of the quarter window chrome trim and just above the roof/headliner molding. Gene K.
  11. Can anyone give me dimensions or a photo of where the shoulder seat belt anchor point is located on a 1972 fastback? The previous owner replaced the headliner and never reinstalled the shoulder belts. I think I can feel them through the headliner, but I want to be certain before I cut it. I would also like to know what size and grade bolt I need. Thanks. Gene K.:huh:
  12. Chris, I sent you a Private Message (PM) on the green one. Gene K.
  13. Can you post some pictures of the back sides? Thanks, Gene K.
  14. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct single grille support brace for a 72 Mach 1? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/71-72-MUSTANG-NOS-GRILLE-BRACKET-BOSS-351-MACH-1-/140553147065?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b99ed2b9 I tried following the instructions for posting a picture, but I don't think it worked so I included the URL to the eBay listing. Thanks, Gene K.
  15. My thanks to all for the suggestions and leads on parts. - The quarter panels on eBay look promising and a grille support ( just the adjustable piece between the hood latch and grille) should turn up too. - I will keep looking for a front bumper that is in restorable condition. - My rear seat foam may be salvagable so I will wash it and see how it comes out. - I will rebuild the front seat bases. (I had to braze the frame on my previous Mach 1 too.) I thought someone may have come out with a good reproduction unit that would save me the work. Try the usual suspects first, Ebay, Don at Ohiomustang, 71steed on VMF (coram Corral on ebay) Hemikiller on here or VMF and see if they have anything. The reproduction rear interior quarter panels are garbage i bought a set they would only be good if your desperate or have a track car and needed a very light interior. those panels need to be cut out for everything. you need to cut out holes for the belts and the ashtray. you have a late 72 car because you have retractable rear belts similar to the 73 cars. so you would focus on 1973 cars to get the correct rear panels. 73s are more numerous, 72 is the rarest year of mustang. Original quarter panels that are unmolested and not disintegrating are rare and will cost you over 400$ in today's market. It took me 2 years to find a pair in good shape from Don at Ohiomustang. -------------- Urethane front bumper: another rare part to find in good usable condition. these pop up on Ebay from time to time, they go from 200-1000$ depending on condition took me 3 years to find one in excellent shape. the Urethane bumper was only put on some models from 71-72, in 73 the bumper was completely changed. so you have less then 200,000 vehicles that may have one, and 40 years of them disappearing from existence. Its not impossible to find one but will cost you lots of money. i ran a chrome front bumper for about a year before i replaced it with a urethane one. rarer then the urethane front bumper is the Crash bar Re-enforcement plate that the bumper mounts on to, this part is usually rusted away I found a NOS plate for about 200$ on e-bay. also took me 3 years to find. the chrome and urethane bumpers on the 71-72 is the same, you can easily swap in either bumper onto your car. ----- Grill center support, hood latch support, single center version, should be easy to find, common to late 71,all 72, and i think 73 also not 100% sure. its 2 pieces, the main part that holds the hood latch is attached to the radiator support, and there is a smaller adjustable plate with 2 bolts that attaches to the grill. I think i got one from Coram Corral (71steed) ---- rear seat foam(aftermarket) this does not exist. you either have to salvage your original seat foam or make your own. I recommend going to a fabric store or a furniture store , use your original foam as a guide. i ended up throwing my foam in the washer on low once all the dirt and garbage washed out of the foam i left it to dry on a rack, and it puffed back up. all the other original parts to the seat, like the re-enforced burlap and musklin fabric under covers must be fabricated yourself. the front seats are easier to rebuild with the aftermarket, because most rear seats are in good shape and were never used. -------------- front seat base, should be easy to find they always need to be repaired they are usually cracked with broken springs. i Brazed my seat base back together and used Sofa U springs from a furniture store that matched the original ford springs, i then replaced the broken originals with new and re-assembled. ---- None of the things you want are impossible to find but will take time and patients and money.
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