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Everything posted by turtle5353

  1. Car is looking great!!! And the family news is even better! Keep on, Keeping on!!
  2. I agree, that was always one of my pet peeves about our cars. Atleast its pretty easy to fix!
  3. I would definitely have a new converter in it. All those shavings are almost impossible to get out of an old converter. Also make sure to dump some trans fluid in the new converter before install, You want to spin the converter as you are installing it and make sure it seats all the way. You will here a couple clunks as it seats completely. If you don't have it seated properly you can easily wipe out a new pump. Once you have the trans bolted to the motor you should be able to move the convert slightly inside the stud holes of flywheel. Should be loose fit, if its bound up at all, your conv
  4. Wow!!! IS RIGHT!! Looks great. Also that spray booth looks awesome...... I would love to be able to spray in that!!
  5. That’s great price shipped. Factory is way better than those aftermarket.
  6. Actually the factory mustang hard lines worked fine but they were a little long. Used factory mustang rubber line to the rear end then used the factory hard lines and splitter across the rear end. I was always going to make new hard line across the rear but never got around to it.
  7. Hey Don. I’m really leaning towards tearing it down here in Late May. Are you talking about that clip off the 73 you had? Are the front frame rails the same as 71-72? I think they are, believe they just changed the bumper assembly in 73. I would be making a run out to your shop with a trailer to pick up a lot of parts. How much are you asking for the front clip? Is it off the car? Do you need me to come out and remove it? Or buy whole shell? Shoot me a PM with some prices if you could or post on here. Thanks.
  8. I don’t even know what to say. That painter is a fucking joke. The hood and roof are unacceptable!! God luck with the rest of the build. I really feel for ya man!
  9. I too am looking at doing the same thing for my car. The only thing I would advise would be to make sure you build a frame jig to hold and support the car while you cut the front end off. Then use the Chassis dimensions to put everything back to spec. I think this would be the way to go if the complete assembly is put together well. Would definitely save some time. I don't know of anyone on here that has used one yet..... at least that I recall seeing. I know Eric (mister4x4) did replace the front clip on his car but he used a donor car front clip. Curious to hear what others have to say?
  10. I appreciate the info. But what fun is it if you don't do it yourself? LOL!! I got a little work ahead of me.
  11. Awesome. Thank you. I’m thinking about building a frame jig and finally start tearing into my car.
  12. Nice looking jig. Do you recall the overall length of it??
  13. Any chance you can scan those into a PDF and post the pdf? Great measurements to have.
  14. Very nice David. My buddy has the same machine for cutting rotors. We use it all the time. We take a cut or two off the rotors every brake change just to square and clean them up. Nice machine to have around.
  15. Everyone has an opinion on oil. I have used Rotella 15-40 diesel oil in all my old cars, bikes, quads, tractors,etc. never had any issues.
  16. No problem. let me know if you have any other questions!
  17. The stock lower plates wont work because the size of the axle tube is bigger on the 8.8. That's why I ended up making my own plates and welding the shock mount ears to them. Also another thing you don't want to forget to do is to weld the axle tubes to the center section with a good stick welded and some 7018 rod. Get a little better penetration than mig welding them, but a mig will work if you have a 220volt and crank her up a bit. The stock axles tubes on the 8.8 are pressed in and tend to turn under some power.
  18. Yeah you got some work ahead of you. For the hard to find sheetmetal that's not reproduced, I would contact Don at Ohio Mustang Supply or Mike at Motor City Mustang. Both are on here as site supporters and both a very good guys to work with. And both have multiple parts cars for just such an occasion! Good luck on the build and keep us updated.
  19. Did you get an 8.8 out of an Explorer? spring perches I bought from summit racing, they are standard universal perches. I welded them on to match same pinion angle as the stock 8” Lower leaf spring plates I made from 1/4” flat steel. I cut the shock mount ears off stock ones and welded them to the flat plate. Drilled holes properly sized for custom u bolts I had made at spring shop locally. Driveshaft was made by same shop that made my u bolts. I used stock drive shaft front half and used rear of the Explorer shaft to bolt to rearend.
  20. Biggest thing is to not go too aggressive with your sanding or buffing. ESPECIALLY on corners and edges. Don't run the buffer too fast or build up excessive heat. Its very easy to burn through fresh clear and paint. To be honest if you have never done it before , I probably wouldn't recommend starting on this car! You can do way more harm than good if your not careful. Your water and paper have to stay clean, clean, clean. If your getting dirt nibs out first, make sure they don't stick to your paper because they will scratch the hell out of the clear if they get embedded in the paper.
  21. wow. Now that business knows what they are doing, extremely nice work.
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