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Everything posted by turtle5353

  1. Thanks Guys. Not getting too much done last couple days....been working a bunch of OT at work and still have to work more OT this weekend. So when I get an open chance to hit the garage, I go. I did start cleaning and prepping the motor for a quick paint touch up. Nothing fancy. Hopefully have that finished up tonight or tomorrow. As far as the epoxy primer, my buddy used it in his car and its held up really nicely over the years. But yes, if it is exposed to UV light it can fade and get that chalky look, but being that its under the hood, there should be little to no UV light exposure. Epoxy primer is also pretty much nonporous unlike normal primer. And it holds up fairly decent to chemicals. My buddy said when his gets dirty or anything he wipes it down with a cloth and a little bit of mineral spirits and it looks new again. When i do my car this winter I will be doing the exact same thing. Way more durable then anything out of a rattle can and the sheen is almost perfect.
  2. I believe those ones have you drill a hole in your existing pedal at a higher point up and mount a new pin. I’m not 100% sure but that’s what I remember reading.
  3. Where the butt welds will be is up to you. If you're not comfortable with butt welds or if you don't mind lap joints, then technically you could replace the floor pans with no butt welds. Just overlap the new pan about 1" and punch holes around the perimeter and plug weld it into place, then seam seal everything. The spots weld you will have to drill out will be on the floor supports/frame rails. If you overlap the toe board it isn't necessary to drill out the spot welds. Same with the floor to rocker joint. If you are reusing your seat risers then you need to drill those spot weld out carefully. If your replacing the seat risers, then cut them out and discard. If you don't want to drill all the spot welds out, there's an easy trick to help speed up the process. Cut the floor pan out close to frame rail, rocker, toe kick, ect. Leave a strip of the metal with the spot welds. Then go back with a grinder and grind the spot welds down very thin. Then go back in with an air chisel and nice sharp chisel bit and get between the rails and pop the spot welds loose. The floor pan is much thinner than the frame and you are less likely to damage the base material with the air chisel. But be careful, it can get away from you in a hurry. But its only metal and you can always weld her back up!
  4. A lot of times I cover the windows with that thick brown packing/wrapping paper. It deflects sparks nicely. But yes, you need to be careful the sparks can mess glass up pretty easily.
  5. Hey there’s nothing wrong with 500+ hp to go get ice cream!! Lol. Thats where my car gets drove most.
  6. Got the shock tower covers on. Wheels on. And got the car cut off frame jig! She’s a roller again. Getting closer!!!
  7. If you’re doing one side at a time and the car is on its wheels you should be ok. I don’t think you would need any extra bracing. I changed mine 1 at a time without anything moving. Just be careful when cutting them out that you don’t cut into the floor support or torque box. Other than that it’s pretty straightforward. Lay your new pan in, trace around it and cut out old pan. Leave a nice 1” lip or so if you are doing a lap joint. If you are doing a butt weld , I would zip screw new pan in place and use a body saw and cut through both pieces for a perfect fit. I usually cut a few big hunks of the floor out first to get some of the stuff out of the way before fitting. Pretty easy job if you take your time.
  8. No it don’t have to change if you keep the same drum manual master cylinder. But if you want to go to power disc brakes then yes you need to swap out the pedal. I kept the under dash bracket and pedal from the 72 I took all the parts from. I haven’t swapped that in yet but hopefully this winter I will get to that. I have been running my drum master cylinder for probably 10 years with disc brakes and haven’t had any trouble. It takes a little bit of pushing on the pedal to stop but no worse than drum.
  9. +1 on Don at Ohio Mustang or Mike at Motorcity Mustang. Both could probably hook you up with the spindles for disc conversion and the pedal assembly under the dash. I used a 72 vert for parts for all my conversion.
  10. Not much tonight but it’s something. Took couple hours to get the damn springs in. The spring compressor was pain in ass. Had to try numerous compressor configurations to get the spring in. But they are in and so are the shocks and sway bay. Hopefully get the wheels on it and get it cut off the frame jig a day this week.
  11. Let me know if you don’t want the pewter 71, I know a guy looking! Lol
  12. More stuff added. Steering and some suspension. Wiring. Brake lines. Still need to get a spring compressor to install springs and shocks. But it’s getting there.
  13. Looks great!!!! That’s how it should of looked when you picked it up from the painter. A job is not done until it has been wet sanded, buffed, and hand glazed. That gentleman did a great job! It’s all downhill from here! Congrats .
  14. Got the front end and few small parts sprayed tonight. It looks pretty good. Should dry to a nice satin black. My buddy told me about using epoxy primer for under hood color and it works great!! Durable and nice sheen. Hopefully get the car into a roller and possibly off the frame jig this weekend.
  15. Finished fitting battery tray. Had to drill 2 new holes for bottom mount and weld 2 holes up. The holes were not in correct place on inner fender apron. Got the car wiped down with wax and grease remover. Taped off and wrapped foil on lines I didn’t want painted. Covered car in plastic and paper to prep it for epoxy primer. Hopefully get it scuffed and shot Friday or Saturday. Then I can actually start assembly.
  16. Mine don’t hit the trunk. But mine don’t come down as far as yours. no drilling required.
  17. Hell yeah. I love the louvers also. I bought mine through Summit Racing. They are aluminum.
  18. Getting a little done each night after work. Got the Monte Carlo bar final fitted and holes drilled. Motor mounts are in. Battery tray is fitted. And got all the seam sealer applied. Hopefully tonight I will able to get it prepped for epoxy primer. Get everything taped off and scuffed. We will see.
  19. He knows all about it. Visited shop few times so far and is very pleased with how it’s turning out. I send him pics also.
  20. Thanks! Yeah Chuck. That’s what I usually do. I usually charge $35/hr. But on this project I was lazy with my time keeping, and to be honest I have lost track. I was guessing 100 hrs when I first looked at it but as we all know you always find more wrong. So I know I will be over that estimate. I was guessing $3500-4000 for labor plus materials.
  21. The back isn't too bad. The rear frame rails were replaced at some point. Trunk pan, drop offs, rear quarters, and floor pans have all been replaced. Not the prettiest work but its solid. On another note....... what do you guys think something like this should cost?? I am detailing, cleaning and painting all the parts as I am reassembling them also. So it should look pretty good once its back together. Just in front sheetmetal and and small parts he is around $2,200 or so into it. By the time it is done, Im going to have a ton of hours in this thing.
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