Jump to content

turtle5353

VIP Members
  • Posts

    3,402
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    35

Everything posted by turtle5353

  1. To be honest I forgot all about the clearance on the tunnel. I apologize. I do remember now that you mentioned it. I clearanced mine with a hammer and a long solid rod. My car does have shackles in the back and sits pretty high. So that maybe why mine didn’t rub as bad.
  2. Got the rest of the frame jig finished. Got it all measured out and welded down per the factory specs. And then I broke out the old torch and cut the front clip off. Still need to wire wheel everything and drill out spot welds but got a lot done today. Here’s a few pics of the progress.
  3. Not much progress this week. Been busy at work and getting the bike and quad ready for the races this weekend. But I did manage to get the jig leveled up under the car and I got 1 front brace fabricated and installed. Now i need to build 3 more at various points working my way back the car and set the car to the factory specs from my baseline of the jig. Maybe get some stuff done after the races saturday or sunday. Hopefully the car will be leveled and welded to the jib by the end of the weekend. One good thing is that a bunch of parts showed up from Don at Ohio Mustang Supply. Thanks for the help Don! I went to Dynacorn in Leetsdale PA to pick up the shock tower assemblies to save on truck shipping and that place is impressive. ITS HUGE!! You could definitely go on a shopping spree at that place. Its nice to know that place is less than an hour drive from my place. So when I go to repair my Mach 1 I can drive down and pick up my parts.
  4. I'm with Roy! My car started out yellow!
  5. Thanks for the input fellas. this wasn't for my car. This was a question asked by the gentleman that I restored his 71 mach1. He text me the other day asking about it because his is leaking. He asked if I was interested in replacing it, but with the 65 taking up most of my garage I cant get him in till that's done. I remember them being a pain in the ass to get out without breaking something.
  6. Got it up in the air and frame jig rolled under. Now to level up the jig. Take lots of measurements. Weld in my cross braces and adjustable stand offs. Then the car will be ready to tear into. A lot of work just to get ready to do work!!
  7. Thanks Mike. Just scrap steel I have had laying around the shop. That was a 30’ I beam I had for years. Finally got to use it!
  8. Got a little bit done on the 65. Removed the engine this weekend and got it on the stand. I was also able to get the lower frame work of my jig welded together and painted. I put 4 heavy duty casters on it so it’s easy to move and made adjustable legs so I can level it up once in place. I am going to add four 2” tube crossmembers to the top that also have adjustable standoffs. Once the jig is leveled up I can set the car up on it according to factory specs and tack it down. This should help when I rip the front end off and install new sheet metal. Another plus is that I will be able to use this jig for my 71 when I repair it!
  9. Damn sorry to hear this!! Glad you made it out, could of been much worse. There will be lots of car shows, take time and heal up!
  10. Can you remove the heater core with out dropping the whole box out from under dash? This is for a 71 with AC.
  11. Tim, Once I get this one done, I will probably tear into my car! Thanks Jay. I appreciate that.
  12. Im sure there will be more than one surprise with this project. But the aftermarket support for these cars is incredible. You can pretty much build a car from a catalog these days. Dynacorn even sells complete bodies.
  13. Dynacorn makes 1 piece aprons with the frame rail already attached. Replace entire front end with 3 pieces total. 2 aprons and rad support . I got a message into Don at OMS on pricing availability of the parts. Im hoping its a pretty straight forward process. The frame rails under the floor pans stay there. The new front end slide into those rails and gets plug welded in numerous spots and up a flange that gets attached to firewall.
  14. Hey guys. Just thought I would share some pics of the 1965 K code Mustang that I'm working on for a guy. It looks decent on the outside but she's been hacked up pretty bad over the years. It still has the original k-code 289 in it but the 4 speed trans was replaced years ago with another 4 speed. But since its a k code the owner wants to save it. I would like to blow this whole car apart and fix everything at once but the owner just wants to do bits at a time. So for now I am going to be concentrating on the front sheetmetal from the fire wall forward. I will be cutting off the whole front end and starting from scratch. The front frame rails and shock towers have patches over patches and lots of holes in them behind the upper A-arms. The driver side shock tower looks to be leaning in a good inch or so. i will be building a frame jig for this before i start tearing it down too far. The good part about that is that I needed a frame jig to do my 71 repairs too so i might as well build it now. Once I'm done with the front clip, the guy is going to drive it and have some fun with it till next year or this winter. Then he wants me to do the floor pans. The floor pans were done years ago but not very pretty. This is gonna be a pretty big repair but i think im up for it. Should be fun! Well heres a few pics of the car and some of the rot. Some of the up close pics are holes behind the upper A-arms. The driver side upper arm has about 1" of shims behind it to get camber in spec or atleast close to driveable! I will keep this thread updated as i progress. I know its not a 71-73 but its still a cool little Mustang.
  15. A lot of people epoxy prime the whole car before any mud work. Not right or wrong. Just how that shop does it. Many different opinions on the subject. But I have found either way to work just fine.
  16. I just watched that video earlier tonight. Pretty cool. Someone posted it on Bobs karting forum too.
  17. Man that sucks! There must be a lot of trash in that paint. You may end up having to get a lawyer involved. I don’t like to do things that way but you dropped a lot of money on a subpar paint job. One of my customers had to take the guy that painted his 67 mustang to court. It was bad. But he did end up getting his money back, at least most of it. I wish you luck with the next detail guy.
  18. Get a different insurance company. That’s a joke. Get an insurance company that deals strictly with classic cars and you will be good. And the rates will probably be cheaper.
  19. I got to keep the car but it cost me $6k. I got the car and $30k in the end.
  20. Since mine got totaled my insurance came up with $36,000 as the value of mine. I know I wouldn’t pay that for mine but I also know that I got way more than that into it! lol.
  21. My buddy owns a tire shop so I buy everything off of him.
×
×
  • Create New...