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barkstang

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  • My Car
    73 Mustang Convertible, mostly original

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    United States
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    Southeast

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  1. I was a little disappointed when i finally received my key chain ordered through this forum. it was just stuck on a sander and had a rough finish with VERY sharp edges. About an hour with an orbital sander and various buffing wheels and it is now ready for keys. picture hosting
  2. I am not sure and don't know specifics but have heard there is a difference between the manual and power brake pedals. Makes sense though. The fulcrum (distance between pivot and pedal or after the pedal) should be different as you need less pressure to push on the power brakes.
  3. Hi everyone thanks for all the ideas. - Pertronix issues: it is a Pertronix I but doesn't matter. the distributor cams on the New (not rebuilt) Cardone distributor are smaller (shorter?) than the stock distributor. and the trigger ring doesn't fit correctly on the new lobes, (way loose, flops around). So I still have in my new pts/condensor. I've tried 3 coils, my new one (external resistor), Pertronix Flamethrower, and original coil. None seem to make a difference. The flame thrower is on it now and I noticed it was very hot. Could barely touch it. Is that normal? My electrical manual shows a resistor off the ignition. So, assume that it goes to the coil that way. Any comments? _ Plugged all the vacuum lines and it seems to run ok. I put a new PCV valve and vac hose on and it started missing and dying again. Took it back off and plugged the carb. runs ok again. Not sure what that means since it is a new valve and hose. put on a new brake booster line and was able to drive the car reasonably well up and down the street. - Still just shifting on internal shift points but then no vac hooked up. I think i will run a line directly to the trans and see if that helps with shift points. - The whole engine seems to be hot. Timing is ok. I will check the thermostat. maybe that isn't opening. Might be the cause of all the problems as it runs fine for about a minute before starting to miss and backfire. Is it possible that has been the problem all along? Not sure if overheating could cause those symptoms. any feedback? Thank again for everyone's help!
  4. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will start with plugging all the vac lines and tree to see if that makes a difference. Re: the points i did lube them and have checked them. I would really like to get the Pertronix back in. The new Cardone distributor has a different shaped seal where the wires go through the side. I would have to do some modifications but may see if i can make a new seal. Since the car seams to start ok then quickly go down hill, you may be right. Might be an issue with the new choke. I'm about ready to give up on Holley. I think this is the 3rd or 4th one in the 15 years I've had the car. I can rebuild one and set it up in my sleep. I'd love to go with an efi set up but.....big bucks. Lastly I will check the manifold gaskets. Can you tell I'm avoiding that? How do you handle putting gaskets on with the valley pan? A little RTV under the valley pan then gaskets on the pan? I always put a dab of RTV on the ends of the end seals too. I've even just used a bead of RTV in lieu of cork end seals. Put on a bead then let it set for 10 minutes to skin over then drop manifold on. Works well and doesn't crush like cork. Thanks everyone for the great ideas. I will keep you posted on the outcome. Oh, It is the 351C. I think that question was asked. Didn't add it since the title of thread is 351C backfires then dies. Not trying to make you feel bad. I do stupid stuff like that all the time.
  5. Is it common for the modulator diaphragm to start leaking then rupture? Or does it sound more like a manifold leak? Where are likely suspects i should start looking?
  6. HELP! I had some work done recently because I needed a car lift and don't have one. Work done: freeze plugs replaced, manifold gaskets replaced, new Holley 600 cfm, new distributor (Cardone), removed Pertronix and replaced with points condenser. Ran nice for a while when i got it back except trans shift points went up too high. The mechanic advised i just adjust the FMX modulator, but i suspect some kind of vacuum leak. Now it starts and idles ok for a very short time, maybe a minute then starts to backfire (exhaust) really loud and then dies. PVC is ok. Set points gap and timing, ( a couple times) wires should be ok, they are nice Taylors. was going to put my Pertronix back in but won't fit the Cardone distributor. Any ideas?
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