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About NG8264723

  • Rank
    I get my mail here

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mustang f code MACHI
    Purchased in 1997 or so


  • Location
    Harvard, Ma
  • Region

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  1. It's a brand new part. The block is pretty amazing. I so excited about this build. I just ordered the following... *Scat 4340 steel crankshaft - $850 *Scat 4340 I-beam rods - $368 *Custom Racetec forged pistons with rings - $775 *Coated Clevite main/rod bearings - $300 *Custom hydraulic roller camshaft - $450 *Morel hydraulic roller lifters - $450 *Comp Cams Ultra Gold rockers - $400 *ARP head bolts - $89 *Felpro MLS head gaskets - $200 *Felpro timing cover gasket - $12 *Felpro rear main seal - $30 *Milodon oil pan gasket - $37 *Felpro valve cover gaskets - $25
  2. Holy Crap! Time flies! It has been a while since i have added to the build. The car was driven here and there. Hopefully it will be driven more this year. A few years ago I bought her a FITECH unit. This Christmas I bought a a/c conversion. I will be adding the a/c soon. We also have new door panels to install. the big news is the engine. The old Cleveland runs good but is old. I decided to upgrade and I had an old Cleveland block. Unfortunately, after $500 in machine work I was told it needed 4 sleeves. ANyone want a free Cleveland block? Ugh So I bought this 397-
  3. Tony, How does the manifold fit? I have a ram air set up. I guess I may need to lose it......
  4. Tony, How much higher is your intake from a stock intake.... It would help if I could compare the height to my intake
  5. SB 351 CHI 3V 185 CLEVELAND ALUMINUM INTAKE MANIFOLD INT3V185H9.5W | eBay It looks like it can be cut down 1 inch
  6. I saw you used the CAA A/C unit.  I was thinking of buying the complete unit for my wife.  I looked into this and found several pulley issues.  One guy used his alternator to power the unit with a long belt.  I saw that you used a factory style kit.  I am not sure what to do.  I could just go with the alternator type for now.  If it fails go with the 3 groove pulley.  What do you think?

    1. Mister 4x4

      Mister 4x4

      I picked up a 3-groove pulley from a parts car, and a factory idler pulley set from one of the members here.  There's also an adapter for a Sanden compressor from CAA/Old Air that ties the factory idler pulley to the Sanden compressor.  I went that route because CAA said to run a longer belt on the power steering pump circuit... I wasn't too keen on having 4 pulleys on a V-belt.  I suppose it's doable and someone else did that with no issues (I can't remember who mentioned that).

      If you don't have power steering, that would be a super long belt and I'm not even sure how all 4 pulleys would work, especially with the alternator on the passenger side with the A/C compressor on the driver side.

      Hope that helps!

  7. Tony, What the hell are you doing? Stop. Your car looks amazing!. Leave it alone! Those rims look like air jordans on my grandmother. Spend it on something else...... chris
  8. So i figured it out today. I had to add a 12 inch extension into the factory harness. Long story but it needed to happen. The 9 wires that are near the solenoid needed this extension. I was carefule and did the in and out car side correctly. I screwed up on the extension intself!. I had some wires in the 9 pin connector in the wrong place. I fixed them. It then woul start and die. I then traced that to the tach being reomved. I installed the factory tach and it started. I forgot the ignitionruns through the tach. I needed to remove the tach because it is goign to the body shop.
  9. So I went to go get a sticker but before I left I tested all my lights. My right side brake lights are out but all the turn signals work. The hazards work as well. I then took off the driver side kick panel and tested all the lights by powering the white cable all the lights work. It seems like the white cable which is four prongs is not getting any power I wasn’t sure where to go next. Could the turn signal be the culprit please help
  10. West coast cougar has an article on repairing them..
  11. Yes, That said I did have to do some splicing when I added the inner fenders... The symptoms are. It will not turn over with the key. If I jump the solenoid with my snap on jumper button it starts but then will not shut off. I did remove and check the ignition switch it seems fine. I OHM it to check the continuity when the key is turned. Could the starter solenoid be the culprit?
  12. I thought I would ask here b/c Midlife is here and he did wonders with my wives 73 stang wiring. I'm not sure hwat is wrong but it won;t start with the key or turn off with the key! It's like it is powering backwardsw thorugh the alternator!
  13. My son just bought dash direct from Summit racing. I told him he should of checked here first. Any recomendations?
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