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Tataocb

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  • My Car
    1973 Mustang Convertible 351C 2v, auto.

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    Houston, TX
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. I don’t think my abilities would go as far as pulling anything else out of there. I did pull out the outer bearing and it looks fine, but now I cannot get it to back in...lol. I probably need to add some oil to it and the shaft to help it slide in, since I wiped the one it had on it when I cleaned it. Sorry, but my knowledge of third member components is very limited. I thought I was just going in to replace the seal and take care of the leak, but noticed that mine did not have the slinger like the ones in all the videos I watched. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. My mustang has pretty much sat in the garage ever since I bought it about 3 years ago waiting for a transmission swap. I would run it for 15 min twice a week. One day I noticed a small puddle of rear end oil. Now, with all the time spent at home I decided I'd give it a shot at replacing the seal. I saw a few videos on YouTube and went for it. It surprised me that the nut was not on there as right as I would have expected. After removing the old seal, I noticed it does not have an oil slinger. The oil has a caramel color to it ( kind of like coffee mixed with milk), so I am guessing it's pretty old; and therefore this might be the first time the seal is replaced in a while. So my question is: should I have an oil slinger between the seal and the bearing (and that is what might have contributed to the leak), or did some of our cars not include an oil slinger? Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
  3. So I ended up swapping the bellhousing and range selector arm/shifter linkage from my original transmission to the replacement. The transmissions were swapped this past weekend. (I ended up hiring a mobile mechanic and tagged along to learn) I took the car out for a short test drive and it seems to be working well. The transmission engages immediately, there is no delay or "morning sickness" anymore. I might have to adjust the shift points, but will have to do some research into how to do that. I felt it shifted a little funny under hard acceleration. It was a short drive because my differential has a small leak and my registration is expired; and there is a constables office about a block from where I live. I will take it for an inspection now that it is driveable and get the registration. I also swapped the stock 2 bbl intake and carb to a Weiand intake and Edelbrock 650 cfm carb before the transmission started slipping badly. So I have not been able to really test drive it properly with the new intake/carb combo to check driveability.
  4. I kind of thought that might the case since most trucks have a column shifter. I know they are different on the C4 and C6, but didn’t really investigate much about the differences in the FMX. I read in another forum that the tail shaft and housings are of different length and that both would need to be swapped to keep the same speedometer gear. Does anyone know if that is accurate? I measured the transmissions and they both seems to be the same length. Both tailshaft housings measure approximately 13 and 1/4 inches. So the suggestion would be to swap the bell housing and also swap the range selector arm? The range selector arm swap would imply dropping the pan and valve body, correct? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. I found a guy selling an FMX. He said it was rebuilt, he bought a new converter, installed it on a 60s/70struck, but never ran it. Then decided to go with an AOD instead. So he removed it and stored it. He added some tranny fluid to the converter and transmission. When comparing it to my transmission, there seem to be a few differences. The bell housing seems a little different as mine does not have the part in the yellow circle in the pic below. I assume the bell housing difference would not make a difference unless it affects the kickdown rod. Other than that, my transmission has 3 different rods attached to it. In the pic below, white goes to the shifter, red to the kickdown rod and green to the steering box. The other transmission does not seem to have the one for the steering box. Would that mean I would need to swap that part from my transmission to the other one, or can I just leave it unhooked? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. I have been considering dropping the transmission and give it a shot at the rebuild using the Bad Shoe Productions video. I have never removed a transmission before either, but have seen a few videos on what the process is and found this post as well: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-tips-on-removing-fmx?pid=163242#pid163242 I took a look under my car and it seems part of the exhaust would need to be removed as well because the "H" pipe (red arrow) is right underneath the tailshaft housing. I have never removed exhaust parts either, but would assume I would need to unbolt from the exhaust manifolds (I do not have headers) and remove the clamps (yellow arrow) in the pic to remove that mid section. I would probably also have to remove that plate from the green arrow (I assume it's there because my car is a convertible) in order to remove the driveshaft. If I remove the exhaust part, is there a gasket where the downpipes bolt to the manifolds? I would not want to end up with an exhaust leak if I decide to give it a shot myself. Thanks for the help guys.
  7. I found those videos from Bad Shoe Productions while looking up FMX tutorials on youtube. All I found was a video of a guy with a French accent disassembling the transmission. I have zero experience with transmissions so I felt like I was not getting much out of it (especially since my transmission is still in the car) and he seemed to use some specialty tools. Did you find you needed any specialty tools besides the spring compressor you mention? I do not have a transmission jack, only a floor jack from Harbor Freight. My cheapest option there would be to get one of those adapters they sell on eBay for about $50 that mounts to the floor jack, but do not know how well they work. Did you do a stock rebuild, or did you add a shift kit? What are you doing about the torque converter? I will send you a PM as I am interested in your experience rebuilding the FMX.
  8. @mudbilly - don't plan on using it as a daily driver so probably less than 200 miles a month I would say. @mbrew2 - sounds as if you were describing my car. It is also a 73 convertible. I have come to believe that the FMX fits the use I have planned for this car and do not really need to go with the AOD swap. It would be nice to have overdrive, but not an absolute necessity. I am glad to hear you are able to spin your tire at will with a very similar drivetrain to mine.
  9. Both shops said they have to remove/install for the warranty to be valid.
  10. I am in a bit of a dilemma and wanted to get your suggestions. The FMX on my 73 with a 351C was suffering from “morning sickness”, but the last time I took it for a drive around the block it was slipping and I even thought I might not make it back home. In the end I did make it home but have decided it is time to do something about it. About a year ago I bought a used AOD that came out of a 92 mustang with about 50k miles that included the transmission, torque converter, cross member, flywheel, cooling lines, radiator, fan, shifter, dipstick, TV cable (no bracket), and driveshaft (I think that covers everything I got). I was told it was running fine and the guy selling it was only doing so because he was going to swap in a T5. I saw the mustang, the T5 and he seemed like an honest guy. I bought it thinking I would eventually swap this into my Mustang in the future. However, I do not believe I have the ability to do the swap myself. I have worked on cars with things like suspension, changing belts, intake/carb swap; but nothing as involved as a transmission swap. I read Mister 4x4’s AOD conversion thread and kind of have an idea of what is needed, but still think it is a bit too much for me to do in my garage. I am especially worried about having to modify the cross member, cooling lines, neutral safety switch/shifter and adjusting the TV cable since I have never done any custom fabrication work. I have asked around in some shops that specialize in classic mustangs in Houston and the price they quote me for the swap is way too high for me (close to $3-$4k). I have also asked about getting the FMX rebuilt and it comes down to two options with two different shops: Option 1 costs $700 (which includes a rebuild kit with clutches and bands; and labor to remove/reinstall the transmission, but does not include rebuilding/replacing the torque converter or any other hardware that is not included in the rebuild kit which would be additional if required) with a 1 year warranty. He said he would check the torque converter and if it still has “more than 50% life in it”, then there is no need to rebuild/replace it. Option 2 costs $1200 and is a full rebuild that includes anything that might be needed (including torque converter and any other hardware he might need to pull off from an FMX transmission core he has), includes labor to remove/reinstall the transmission and comes with a 2 year warranty. The only mods to the 351C 2V is a 4 bbl intake and Edelbrock carb. It also came with a duraspark 2 ignition and a flowmaster exhaust system (with stock manifolds) from the previous owner. It currently has a 9 inch open differential with 2.75 or 3.0 gears. I really only plan to use it as a weekend cruiser that I can step on and enjoy a little power. My current future plan (other than the transmission) would be to install 3.5-3.89 gears and possibly change to a locking differential. After writing all this I come to realize that I should probably just rebuild the FMX and sell the AOD. As far as my two options with the rebuild: option 1 leaves me with an extra $500 IF (and that is a BIG “if”) nothing else needs to be replaced. If the torque converter needs to be replaced then that would add about $200 to the total if I buy one from Summit or any other online store. While option two includes everything being rebuilt for the extra $500 and an extra 1 year of warranty. As far as the warranty is concerned I would assume that since this is only a weekend cruiser (and I only really drive it every 2-3 weeks), the transmission would probably not suffer too much wear. What would you guys suggest?
  11. Well I feel stupid! I went back and checked the firing order and I had mixed up the wires on one side of the motor. I fixed that now and have not gotten the backfire (thanks for the correction) at startup, but I still get it when I floor it while driving. The car seems like its going to die when I floor it and then I get the backfire. Could this be because I do not have the vacuum advance hooked up to any port? It has too much mechanical advance, so I just did not hook it up to any port and capped the ports in the carb.
  12. I removed the wires and cap from the distributor. I was going to try to remove it, but could not remove the bolt with the tools I had so I left it in there; and completed the intake swap with the distributor in place. I installed the plate to "convert" the intake to a dual plane intake. Other than that everything is stock including the 2.75 rear gears. I eventually plan to change them to something close to 3.89. I set the timing to 10 degrees and took it for a drive after it warmed up. I noticed that while in Drive, when I came to a stop sign, the car felt like it was in neutral. I accelerated and the car did not move until 2-3 seconds after the RPMs started increasing; that's when the transmission seemed to engage and the car started moving. I dont have the tach installed in my car so I could not tell what the RPMs were. But it did that every time I came to a complete or almost complete stop during the test drive. I also had detonation twice, once while cruising and accelerating to try to downshift, and the other when the car was parked in the driveway and I was hitting the gas to see if it would detonate. What causes detonation, primarily under heavy acceleration? I do remember that I heard detonation when I hit the gas hard the last time I took it for a drive before starting the swap. That caught my attention, but did not think much of it. However, I never had this issue where the car felt as if it was in Neutral while it was in Drive, other than during the "morning sickness" warm up period. Could this mean the transmission is starting to go?
  13. I recently swapped my stock 2 bbl intake and carb for a Weiand X-cellerator I bought used and a new Edelbrock 650 cfm Thunder series carb. My car is a stock 73 351C 2v with a duraspark ignition (bought it like that from the PO) and an FMX. I am having a couple of issues after completing the swap. 1. Explosions through the carb on start up at random. Sometimes when I go to start the car there will be a single explosion through the carb. It seems like it blows a whitish smoke (could it be mixture?) up through the carb, but no fire. After that, I turn the key again, and it starts up just fine. It does not always do it. Took it for a test drive and found 2 issues: 1. It seems the car is having trouble getting to move from a stop or very low speed. Kind of like the transmission takes a couple seconds to engage. The transmission suffers from "morning sickness" where I have to wait for the car to warm up before it engages gear properly. But I was not having these issues at slow speeds or coming off a stop once it had warmed up before the swap. 2. The car bogs down like its going to stall and even heard a popping sound (like an explosion) one of the times I accelerated to WOT. The initial timing is currently set to 12 degrees and I am not running any vacuum advance as the total timing (mechanical advance) goes up to about 35 degrees (harmonic balancer marks only go up to 30). I set the idle mixture screws and it idles at 900 rpms. I checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner spraying around the base of the carb, the intake manifold, vacuum fittings, and vacuum lines and did not find any leaks. The total manifold vacuum is at 15 at idle. I checked the firing order and it was fine. My next step will be to check the spark plugs. What is the best way to check the s park plug wires? Could these 3 things be related? What else do you suggest I check? Thanks in advance for any help.
  14. Thanks for the suggestions. I had no idea this transmission required this much attention to detail. I usually take the car out for a drive on the weekends, so it most likely had been sitting for about 1 week. The car was at normal operating temperature when I checked the fluid level as I had just come back from driving it for a while. I will probably look into dropping the pan, changing the filter and adding Type F fluid. Hopefully that will take care of the issue. The 2 times I have had the issue in the driveway, it has been right after starting it while it is warming up. Since I was preparing for the worst. I found a guy selling an AOD from a 92 Mustang with 20k miles, including the crossmember, TV cable, what I am guessing is a kickdown cable (I am not too familiarized with AODs), shifter, flywheel, torque converter, cooling lines, radiator, fan, driveshaft, and could not pass it up. So I have all of that in my garage. If the issue with the FMX is fixed by changing the filter and whatever fluid is not in the TC; I would probably not got through with the swap.
  15. This is my first time owning an FMX car. I have had a 302 with C4 and 351W with toploader in my previous 2 Mustangs. I have a couple of questions, but will address one issue at a time. When I pull the car out of the garage and into the driveway I've experienced the following symptom. The driveway has a small slope to it. So if I put the car in neutral, it will go backwards. So when I have it in reverse and pull out, I shift into Drive while the car still has momentum and is going backwards, and it behaves as if it were in Neutral even if I give it a little gas (so it keeps rolling back). If on the other hand, I back out, come to a complete stop, and then shift into Drive, then I can feel the transmission engage and it moves forward as expected. I have not tried to replicate this since the last time this happened which was about a month ago. I have also noticed, twice, that in the same right turn to come out of my subdivision, while turning, its like the tranny goes into Neutral (while in Drive), and then engages again a couple seconds later.This happened probably about a month ago as well. I have driven it 2 or 3 times after that, and have not had any issues in that right turn. The rest of the time, it has not shown any other signs of slippage or issues while driving. I have checked the fluid level (with the engine running), and it is fine. Does this mean the tranny is starting to slip and might be due for a rebuild?
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