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sgtjd

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About sgtjd

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • Vehicle(s)
    1973 Mach 1

Location

  • Location
    Fairborn OH
  • Region
    Central

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Male
  1. Took off my rear bumper today and notice a waffle washer came off and can't remember where it went. Does it go between the bracket and bumper or between the lock washer and bumper? See pick https://preview.ibb.co/djKELk/washer_2.jpg[/img]
  2. I pulled off the valve covers today and noticed one of my six sided core plugs on a 351C (H Code) had a very small link of antifreeze near cylinder number 5. What is the best way to stop this leak? with some type of head stop leak? or replace the core plug? Where can you get these core plugs and how do you remove them?
  3. Now that the mustang is out of storage I looked for the tag and there is none. I did see several numbers stamped on the top side. They are 7812145 73 in a circle 76 in the middle and DC in a circle. I also saw another stamp which read 130 S Trying to figure out which steering box to get: Mustang was built in May 1973 Power Steering Tag SPA-A Power Steering Tag SPA-S Power Steering Tag SPA-T Power Steering Tag SPA-U Please assist.
  4. My gearbox is leaking a lot to include having some slack in there. I believe the gears are just worn out. Pitman arm was replaced two years ago and is good to go.
  5. The SPA T or V is a variable ratio box for 71/72/73. Also a 73 box listed for 73 is SPA AD or AF. I can not confirm. If you have a variable ratio box now you can use the NAPA rebuild program (Cardone) to have you box rebuilt. About $220. Chuck Would you also keep with the standard gear or switch up to the quick ratio. The SPA T or V is a variable ratio box for 71/72/73. Also a 73 box listed for 73 is SPA AD or AF. I can not confirm. If you have a variable ratio box now you can use the NAPA rebuild program (Cardone) to have you box rebuilt. About $220. Chuck Would
  6. The SPA T or V is a variable ratio box for 71/72/73. Also a 73 box listed for 73 is SPA AD or AF. I can not confirm. If you have a variable ratio box now you can use the NAPA rebuild program (Cardone) to have you box rebuilt. About $220. Chuck Would you also keep with the standard gear or switch up to the quick ratio. The SPA T or V is a variable ratio box for 71/72/73. Also a 73 box listed for 73 is SPA AD or AF. I can not confirm. If you have a variable ratio box now you can use the NAPA rebuild program (Cardone) to have you box rebuilt. About $220. Chuck Would
  7. My Mustang is a 1973, MACH I, 351C, produced in May 1973 with power steering. I need to replace the power steering gearbox but need some advice. I assume that my gearbox is variable ratio being that its a MACH. But which to choose. I seen quick ratio, Power Steering Other Tag, Power Steering Tag SPA-A, Power Steering Tag SPA-S, Power Steering Tag SPA-T, Power Steering Tag SPA-U. Not sure which one to get. Also do you keep with the standard gear or switch up to the quick ratio. I've also seen plenty of sources: NAPA NPD SUMMIT buyautoparts.com carpartswarehouse.com
  8. thanks for the Info and now I have some great resources. I do have it ready to go. I'll check your site and let you know. thanks everyone.
  9. I needed to replace/rebuild my Tach on a 1973 Mach I with 351C. When I did some research I found that tach man can do it and he has a three wire tach. Mine has two wires. What is the reason and purpose of the 3 Wire tach. Is it good for me? I do have a pertronix coil II and electronic points.
  10. No I just reorder a better idler arm and install it removing the old one. I torqued it down to specs at 60lbs. that put it back to normal however the rubber bushing was still at the early stages of coming out. the parts come from cj pony parts. this a link to the kit: http://www.cjponyparts.com/supreme-front-steering-and-suspension-kit-1971-1973/p/SUSK11/
  11. You are correct. I placed a thinner washer there after that then replaced the cotter pin. Thanks
  12. I have a 1973 Mustang Mach I, 351C, Auto. I’ve only put two thousand miles on the these parts and they are already falling apart. The idler arm (picture attached): the orange arrow is this normal? Also the green arrow displays the bushing is starting to push through at the top. I had to put a washer there to keep it from coming through. The lower control arms both sides (picture attached): the picture displays the passenger side. The driver side looks the same except reversed. The orange arrow shows the bushing pushing through. The green arrow shows how the arm has shifted and is s
  13. I saw that at NPD but they only had one. I asked how long it would take they stated it could be over a month so I went with the one piece. Only thing is I had to replace all the inner and outer bearings and seals.
  14. found some one piece rotors that will fit. Next up is finding bearings.
  15. I have a 1973 Mach 1 with stock discs in the front and drum in the rear. I’ll be replacing both with stock parts. I found plenty of rear drum kits that fit and that’s a done deal. The front discs are two piece and its hard finding those. I did find plenty of one piece rotors that fit. Is this the norm today? If I went with the one piece I assume I’ll have to replace the bearings. Is there anything else I need to look for?

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Founded:
July 2010

By:
Webfinity Design

From:
Latrobe, PA

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