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rpxr400

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Everything posted by rpxr400

  1. Hey all - does anybody have any tips as to how to remove the exhaust donut from the manifold? They are still in the car. They are original - steel?? and I've sprayed them with penetrating oil, have tried to knock them out with a cold chisel - to no avail. All the chisel is doing is breaking off chunks. I figured I's stop where I am while there is still material externally to work with. Not that it should matter at all, but it's a 351C. Thanks, Rick
  2. I have a 71-72 Mach 1 grill. Pretty sure it's a repro, as I can't find any part numbers on it. If there were part numbers, where would they be?
  3. Moderators - I realize this is a double post - please remove original post from the "Items you are selling" forum. Hey everybody, I am selling my 72 Mustang convertible. This is a documented 1 of 1 car per the Marti report (see link with images below) QCode 351CJ C6 automatic This car is well optioned - per the Marti Report: Black Knit Vinyl Bucket Seats 3.25 Traction Lok Rear Axle Black Power Top with Glass Backlite F60x15 Belted RWL Tires Power Steering Power Brakes Air Conditioner AM/FM Radio Protection Group (bumper guards) Tinted Glass Power Windows Magnum 500 Wheels Competition Suspension Everything works except the A/C The car runs and drives excellent. The body is in great shape - with a minor paint flaw by the driver's door. It's hard to capture in a pic but was a repair to a paint chip. There is no visible rust on the exterior of this car. No rust bubbles anywhere. No trunk rust. This was a Texas car (DSO 52 - Dallas) The a/c does not work. I have not had it diagnosed in the time I've had it. All the parts are there. This car was originally 6F gold glow but was painted correct 1972 2B bright red by the previous owner. The car currently has an Edelbrock 1405 4V carburetor. The original carb needs rebuilding. Original carb is included in with the car. Underside is 100% solid - no rust anywhere - except mild surface rust. Interior is excellent. Driver seat is showing minor wear (see pic) Convertible top is excellent - with one small tear - about 1/4" long (see pic) FACTORY ORIGINAL/OEM Magnum 500s. They have part numbers stamped in them (see pics). Space saver spare tire, with canister. There is a small trans pan drip. Selling because I've always been a classic Cougar guy and I'm going back to my roots. See pics, ask questions. I have 57 photos available to view. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmdzSZUY Marti reports are at the end of the pics. Asking $19,500.
  4. Thanks, mudbilly. That pic looks like it's the front side of the shock tower ?
  5. Hey everybody, I am selling my 72 Mustang convertible. This is a documented 1 of 1 car per the Marti report (see link with images below) QCode 351CJ C6 automatic This car is well optioned - per the Marti Report: Black Knit Vinyl Bucket Seats 3.25 Traction Lok Rear Axle Black Power Top with Glass Backlite F60x15 Belted RWL Tires Power Steering Power Brakes Air Conditioner AM/FM Radio Protection Group (bumper guards) Tinted Glass Power Windows Magnum 500 Wheels Competition Suspension Everything works except the A/C The car runs and drives excellent. The body is in great shape - with a minor paint flaw by the driver's door. It's hard to capture in a pic but was a repair to a paint chip. There is no visible rust on the exterior of this car. No rust bubbles anywhere. No trunk rust. This was a Texas car (DSO 52 - Dallas) The a/c does not work. I have not had it diagnosed in the time I've had it. All the parts are there. This car was originally 6F gold glow but was painted correct 1972 2B bright red by the previous owner. The car currently has an Edelbrock 1405 4V carburetor. The original carb needs rebuilding. Original carb is included in with the car. Underside is 100% solid - no rust anywhere - except mild surface rust. Interior is excellent. Driver seat is showing minor wear (see pic) Convertible top is excellent - with one small tear - about 1/4" long (see pic) FACTORY ORIGINAL/OEM Magnum 500s!! They have part numbers stamped in them (see pics). Space saver spare tire, with canister. There is a small trans pan drip. Selling because I've always been a classic Cougar guy and I'm going back to my roots. See pics, ask questions. I have 57 photos available to view. https://flic.kr/s/aHsmdzSZUY Marti reports are at the end of the pics. Asking $19,500.
  6. Where does the ground tab go on the negative battery cable on a '72? It's a QCode if that matters. I've read it goes on the voltage regulator bolt, but a friend of mine who has a 73 sent me of a pic of it secured to the inner fender. If it goes to the regulator: does it go under the regulator base, or between the mounting screw and the regulator? Thanks ! Rick
  7. Yes - I'm pretty sure somewhere I saw that i was lacquer - I just can't find it again. Am I better off hand buffing/polishing rather than using my polisher ? It's a small area, so it wouldn't be too bad to do. I realize The blend will probable be visible, but I think it'll look better than I expect it to, and better than if I left the gouges in the paint!! I'll wait a couple more days and get my buff on - lol. I'll let ya know how it turns out. Thx for the input !
  8. Q - It's single stage (2B color), I didn't use a blending agent - I don't even know what that is. Paintscratch sells color matched paint in spray cans (in addition to pens, bottles, pt > gal cans. I used a spray can. There were no specific instructions to use any other product. So, if "single stage with a blend" means single stage blended to surrounding paint - yes. I'm not a body guy so I'm not up on the terminology.
  9. So, I touched up an area on my door and now I need to polish it. I had to sand to metal, spot putty, prime and paint. I also wet sanded between some primer and paint coats. Anyway, their (paintscratch.com) instructions say to wait 3 days and polish with rubbing compound. I had a bad experience with rubbing compound in the past with another car, so am hesitant to use it (maybe the product has evolved in 30 years?? lol) : Per their instructions: Use rubbing compound to make it shine. Wait at least three days, then apply rubbing compound to the the entire area of car paint you fixed. This will make it smooth and shiny. Wait at least 30 days before waxing. Single Stage Paints Wait approximately three days, then apply rubbing compound to the single stage paint as explained above under Use rubbing compound. -------------------------------------- I have the following at home, and an wondering if/which of these I can use to polish it up: I also have a porter cable random orbit polisher and several different pads, so if I can use that with the above, please advise. I also have several sandpapers - definitely up to 1500# - maybe even 2000. The area I'll be working on is small - about 12"x12" Thanks, in advance for the help !
  10. I get that it's a joke. I guess it's just not something I'd joke about - but that's what makes the world go 'round.
  11. ...X3 Not amusing in the least. How amusing was the France terror attack? Nothing entertaining about running into people and dragging bodies behind you.
  12. Hey Gary - I got your pm. I'll try to get it in the mail tomorrow. Rick
  13. I was just going to post the same question. How do you mark the locations to drill, if you choose to not put the drill bit through the console holes ?
  14. Isn't there an adjustment on the steering box? I had a '69 Cougar with slop in the steering, and on top of the box is a slotted stud with a lockdown nut. Loosen the lockdown nut, turn the stud clockwise to take out the play, and lock it down again.
  15. I just put an Edelbrock 1405 on my '72 Qcode since my carb was causing problems. Mine is an auto, but once I got he kickdown lever adjusted, when I stomp on it, between the downshift and the 4V opening, I'm very pleased.
  16. gmqcode - where in NJ are you? I ended up making one last year because I thought my issue was fuel boil. There is no available phenolic spacer available. It ends up my issue was the carb, so I do not have use for the spacer any longer. I used the rubber-ish 1/4" gasket that was under the carb as a template, bought 1/2" phenolic material and made my own. You're in NJ? I'm in Eastern Pa - right across the border. PM me your address and I'll send you the spacer I made. Just get some gasket material from your local auto parts store and cut gaskets to match. Here's a pic of the spacer: https://flic.kr/p/KXsTUL
  17. I just recently swapped out the factory spread bore carb 4300D ?? for an Edelbrock 1405. The car stranded me countless times prior to the new carb being installed. I had to get the Trans Adapt spread bore adapter (#2199) so the carb venturis would match up with the intake. THE EDELBROCK SPREAD BORE ADAPTER DOES NOT WORK WITH THE FORD SPREAD BORE INTAKE !!! Lets just say I could have saved some $$ if I had known that. I can finally drive and enjoy the car. I fabbed a throttle cable (extension) bracket to move the bracket right about 1.5". I also made my own C6 kickdown linkage extension to adapt to the Ford linkage on the carb. Fabbed those brackets from aluminum stock from home depot. You won't need the tranny linkage since you have a 4 speed. The PCV goes to the front of the carb now, so I removed the original hose and got a 1/2" 90 degree elbow, a 1/2 to 3/8" hose adapter, and ran the pcv to the front of the carb (as recommended by Edelbrock). The PCV is 1/2" and the fitting at the front of the carb is 3/8". Other than setting the idle mixture screws and adjusting the kickdown linkage, I haven't had to mess with the carb itself, and it runs awesome. Oh - there are three different fuel inlet types available for the Edelbrocks. The one that comes with he carb just sticks straight out from the side of he carb. Then, there's a banjo fitting #8089 which will redirect your fuel line straight down or towards the back, or #8126 which is a hard line which runs down then straight out to the left front of the carb. So - i didn't think he original fitting would have worked with the stock air cleaner, so I ordered the banjo fitting but that didn't work because it hits the manual choke bracket, sooooo - I ended up with the fixed line coming out the front. I didn't want to cut my rigid fuel line, so that crowds things a little, since you have o fit an in-line filter in those few inches between the fuel line and the fuel inlet. Watch Ebay. I got my carb off there for $200, (incl shipping). It also included the Ford transmission linkage - another $26 if new. The carb was virtually brand new. There are lots of Edelbrock carbs on there - some new/almost new - some reconditioned, and some looking well used. Hope this helps.
  18. Hey Don, Thanks for he suggestion. I finally crawled under the dash today and looked at where I had my power lead running. I had it on either location #4 (Distributor Vacuum Emission Control/Throttle Solenoid/Parking Brake/Dual Brake System) or #5 (Heater Defroster/30A Air Cond). Honestly I didn't pay a lot of mind to where I pulled it from - I guess I should have. It was definitely a "key-on" fuse. Anyway, I moved my power lead to position 6 - for the radio, back up lamps, etc. and it's not cutting out any more. I'm guessing when I ran the wire, I just looked for "key-on" power since I didn't have a fuse block diagram and I couldn't read the lettering on the box!! Thanks for the suggestion. It pointed me in the right direction. K.I.S.S. - huh !!?? (no - I'm not looking for a kiss !! ) EDIT 8/25: I was wrong - the radio still cuts out - so, I'm guessing rather than having a bad ground in an individual circuit - since I've had it hooked into two different ones - I'll have to check my battery grounds. Also - is there a ground on the fuse block itself - other than the mounting screw ?
  19. Here you go... Actually, looking at the pitting, this must have been an Ebay purchase, as well. It hasn't been out enough to get pitted in the time I've had he car.
  20. I always got mine at the local ford dealer. The one on my '72 was within the past 5 years. I'd imagine they're still available. If not - search "antenna base Ford Mustang" on Ebay. I got several hits. Just make sure it fits 87-93. You can get the whip separate. You can also try your local salvage yards. I'm sure you can find one there, too. aah - you're in London - local salvage yard may not work as well as if you were stateside. Ebay may be your best option.
  21. Yes - when I put mine on I just put it on hand tight so it's easily removed without tools. (I haven't had one stolen yet). I'll take a pic and try to post it later today. I don't mind having a fixed antenna, as long as it can be removed at the base, just leaving the fixing plate on the fender, I have a standard repro 73 antenna that telescopes down but it still sticks approx 12" out of the fender, if it unscrewed at the base I'd be happy. Are Fox body mustangs fixed antenna removable at the base? I'm not familiar with fox bodies, if so that would be the easiest option for me; still I'd love to have a power antenna in the fender.
  22. '72 Q code black top, black interior Originally gold glow poly - now bright red. Factory Mag 500s, factory a/c. competition suspension, Mach I hood
  23. I put a removable mast on my car from a late '80s/early '90s Mustang. I've put them on 4 classic cars I've had. I just put the original antenna in a box off to the side in the basement. They're available in black bezel and antenna or chrome. They're great for car covers, too. no need to poke a hole in it. No extra holes to drill. I think there was a nub to cut off the plastic base that sits on the fender. I'm also pretty sure I reversed that plastic base to get the antenna to be vertical. It's an easy, straightforward install. Rick
  24. Here's a link to a pic of the Eliminator I had. It was M code, auto. Eliminator
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