Jump to content

Three Ponies

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Three Ponies

  1. I love the button head stainless fasteners! I did the same throughout my interior. Slightly different twist on my console. I used a TKO 5 speed and a hand e-brake and two stainless cupholders. I also placed switches for the fog lamps and auxiliary fan along with a check engine light (needed for fuel injection and EEC-IV). I later trimmed out the e-brake by fabbing a stainless plate with button heads. Your console looks great. Rule #42 in the Book of Customizing. "Ignore passenger complaints".
  2. It originally was silver with a white interior, 302 -2v C4. I spent an insane amount of time on the body and put 3 coats of black and 3 clear. One got sanded and buffed off. Black shows all imperfections, so it had to be right.
  3. Not sure if it is Marilyn Manson black, Alice Cooper black, Gene Simmons black or Johnny Cash black. Definitely not Earnhardt black. (the guy next to me must have confused me for a Charger....)
  4. 73 with a 5.0 HO and a Tremec TKO 5 speed. Originally a 302-2V C4 auto. Explorer intake, E303 cam, 75MM throttle body and 24lb injectors, powder coated exhaust. (What emissions equipment?) Vintage Air system. Cloth German weave top. 4 wheel slotted and cross drilled brakes. 2.5" suspension drop Fox body seats. Yes, that is a parking brake in the console
  5. Unfortunately, they don't fit around the upper intake manifold. I'm going to have to fabricate new ones out of a few bars and rod ends. I can get to the firewall mount locations, but not with the fat stock ones. I actually have given thought to notching the original ones and welding a gusset to the underside. By the time I do that, I think i'll go the bar route and also try to bend up a Monte Carlo bar. Or, maybe I'll just go to a bar and think about it....
  6. The car had been repainted silver several times before I bought it. I did save the door sticker. It was originally silver. I should note I bought this car on a rotisserie and a car trailer full of parts. I had 3 fenders, four quarters, two floors and a bunch of other duplicate parts. It was originally a 302 2v auto sold in Washington DC sales district. I didn't consider doing a Marti report because I knew I was building a restomod out of it and the car wasn't anything special. I had an 89 GT drivetrain so I sold off everything I didn't need (still have some misc items) It now has a 5.0 with an Explorer intake (better than a Cobra!), 24# injectors, 70MM throttle body, E-cam, cold air intake, yadda yadda.... The TKO 5 speed didn't fit - had to do a new trans tunnel and the shorty headers hit the steering box. I did use the pedal box from the GT as it is cable operated. Seats are recovered GT items as well. It has 4 wheel discs also. Here are a few pix. I posted exterior shots to the 73 gallery.
  7. After a lot of researching and photographing a number of cars (Thanks again, rackerm!), the cloth top is on and working. I could never locate any of the screws or adjustment bolts (except for the one midway up the c pillar which was max'ed out), but the stop that I welded up with the hood bumper shown in previous photos worked with a little bit of adjustment. Between the top issues, a fried computer and a mismatched MAF (flea market vendor mislabeled it), I was ready to burn it down! But, it is running great and I only have a few more things to do.
  8. I just took my spoiler out of the package. Instructions are for a 68-70. Little help. Found this thread and Q's video. Awesome! Saved me a lot of time. Well done, "M" would be proud.
  9. The saga continues on the sagging frame. First, a thank you to Rackerm for giving me the opportunity to photo and measure one of his 73 tops. The bad news is his does not have the bow 2 to side frame adjustment bolt either. The brackets look exactly like mine, right down to the rivets. Makes me wonder if Ford did a mid-year production change and had to swap out parts due to shortages. I just got new weathersttripping from Dennis Carpenter and their instructions (verbatim to factory manual) reference this mystery bolt as well. Rackerm made an excellent suggestion that when the fabric is installed, it should go on taut, which may pull the sag up. I'm on board with this. Let's see what happens. I did try something else and it seems like it may help. I took a piece of flat steel, bent the top 3 inches to the angle of the fat arm, welded in a piece to the side to keep it from flexing and put a hood adjustment bumper on the end. This limits the amount of downward travel of the fat arm which limits the amount of downward travel on the front arm. Picture is attached. Y'all can poke fun at it, but if it works, so what! If a nyone can find the mystery bolt, please snap a picture.
  10. Excellent, thanks for the pictures. Tomorrow is Daytona Day, so I will be camped in the garage and am going to work through all of the photos. I'm starting to get a sinking feeling this is an aftermarket frame (were there any?!?!). Bottom line is... I have to do something. I have the material and the installer is ready to go. As far as where I saw your car, I'm a little fuzzy. Beers and Gears? Sheridan Ford? Bellanca Air Field? I see you are in Delaware (I've worked there for 25 years). I might take you up on the offer to view the top so I can ascertain what is different on this frame. Not sure what part of the state you live in, but I bounce between Dover and New Castle. This would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I ventured over to stangnet.com to see if anyone there had an answer. I got the same - look for an allen bolt where the #2 bow meets the frame. I have none - they are all rivets. Even though this frame has what appears to have a Ford part number stamped on the fat arm, I'm becoming suspect of what is going on. A better photo of the #2 bow and bracket is below. Could someone please take a photo of your bracket so I can compare? Thanks in advance!
  12. Wellll........ no allen bolt. I scoured the back frame to body brackets and yes, there are only 3 bolts that give you east/west adjustment and nothing for fore/aft. Then I remembered (thank you, beer) I bought a shop manual 4 years ago. Unfortunately, it has no diagrams and is almost useless. in order to get the clearance from the "top edge material and the door window line" you have to "loosen the number 2 bow to side rail bracket attachment and raise each side of the bow and then re tighten the nut to retain the adjustment". Huh? So the plan will be to loosen every nut and bolt on the driver side, prop up the frame and snug it all back down. The kicker on the manual is this is all done with the fabric in place. so, it appears the fabric is part of the design to hold the frame in place.. Raise the bow, raise the side rail in theory. Famous last words....
  13. Thanks! I thought I scoured the forums last night and obviously missed this thread. I know our tops are different than the early models and don’t have the same adjustment points on them. I overlooked the Allen screw adjustment and will try to find that tonight. It always helps to ask! By the way, I’ve seen your convertible in person and the photos don’t do it justice. Great piece of history!
  14. I can't seem to get this "sag" out of my top frame over the driver side front. I've tried adjusting the frame "east/west" by loosening the mounts at the rear quarter and have good alignment on both windshield posts. I've messed with the hook and pin on the driver pillar to no avail. I loosened the two nuts on top of this portion of the frame and then discovered in order for the frame to move fore and aft, you have to remove the large phillips head screw on the side, but... that hole is countersunk for the screw, so that does not appear to help. I've even removed the screw, loosened the bolts and moved the front section forward (photo below) but it doesn't seem to help much. The top operates very smoothly, however, I can't seem to figure out this last adjustment. Does anyone else's top have this? Suggestions? I want to get this right before the fabric goes on (obviously). Any ideas?
  15. Thanks, you just saved me from hair puller #42. I ended up tapping out the holes and put 5/16 stainless bolts with a steep pitch threads. If they don’t work, I have lags set to go. I have a quarter window with a Rusty Jones sticker on it. The only thing that stuff did was make it a pain in the butt to get off of the car. Used a torch and scraper. When they applied it, they also clogged up every drain on it.
  16. You are correct about the POR 15, sir. When the car was on the rotisserie, I absolutely coated it and used seam sealer everywhere. This car lived along the Chesapeake Bay and even the rust had rust. I’m not taking chances. Thanks in advance for the pix.
  17. I'm getting all of the convertible top parts together so a top installer won't have to waste time trying to figure out what goes where. (this is the pain of buying a completely disassembled car - you don't get the chance to see how things go together). When I matched up the three tack strips for the rear of the top, the center section overlaps the two side pieces. Can someone please assure me this is correct and that I don't have parts from another car? (Possible - I ended up with a bunch of '70 stuff as well as parts from an Oldsmobuick in a Ford box). None of the videos or photos show this and it looks odd. Here's a photo looking rearward at the passenger rear quarter: Are these supposed to overlap and bolts go through the two end holes on each piece?
  18. I'm horrible about following up on these threads. I used the 3M ribbon sealer and the foam weatherstrip and the install went great with no problems. It took longer to break down the shipping crate than it did to install the glass. I'm slooooooowly getting there
  19. Here's another call out for a 73 coupe/convertible windshield. A local shop decided they did not want to get the glass for me. Does anyone know of a supplier or have a windshield for sale in the southeastern PA/ south Jersey / Delaware/ Maryland area? Looking to pick one up and avoid having to pay $150+ for shipping. My car is a restomod, so I don't need etchings, etc.
  20. You are correct! The replacement weatherstrip is a much thinner, standard looking strip. After taking a closer look, the tabs are all sheared off of this one. Plus, there was only one of these and a thinner strip in the parts pile, thus throwing me off. Once I lined up the marks where the tabs were, it made sense.
  21. I thought the same, but I tried every combo and don't see how it fits. There is weatherstrip on the outside door skin and the door panel to reduce some of that, plus there are pads behind the inner door skin to guide the glass. I can't see any holes that are drilled to fit this thing.
  22. My basket case 73 Convertible adventure continues. Since I didn't take the car apart, I have to rely on catalogs, manuals and photos, but not everything is in there. Soooooo......why not ask the forum crowd. What is this and where does it go? Be nice.
  23. The car is originally silver. A 302 auto delivered to a dealer outside of Washington DC. I I bought it on a rotisserie with a trailer full of parts. I had a wrecked 90 Lx 5.0. And then the story began.....
  24. I'll go with the 3m Fast Cure. I have a bunch of the 3M ribbon tape left over from a few street rods, but I'm converned with the thickness. On a street rod with press in trim, windshield thickness isn't a big deal. I want this car right. I'm 90% done at this point, but still need to wet sand and polish the paint and get a top. Here are a few photos. I do plan on rolling it outside tomorrow so i will shoot some more. free photos upload website
  • Create New...