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mach72

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    1972 mach 1 351 4V

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    Oklahoma

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  1. When I reupholstered the passenger seat I added some additional foam to the seat bottom and added some to increase the side bolsters. It all fits under the stock replacement upholstery. This can get you an in inch or two of height and more comfort. Easiest solution on height would be to put washers between the seat frame and sliders. I went with a nice aftermarket smaller diameter steering wheel which gave me more room for my legs. I'm 6'2" 250#, and have to wear a helmet when I go to the drag strip.
  2. Ok guys I think I've got it pretty good now. I found some rubber covered washers at ace hardware (they are made to put on the bottom of furniture to make it not slide on the floor as easy). I replaced the plastic spacers on the lower seat cushion with the rubber coated washers.
  3. Thanks for all the great ideas guys. I got the seat back in last night. It was definitely worth thinning the seat foam. Although I may not have done it if I didn't have another old seat there to use the foam from, if I butchered this one too bad. I think anything you do still using the stock seats will get you small gains. An inch here or there. I considered dropping the seat platform lower in the car, but it looked like I would only gain about an inch.
  4. Hey guys. I have decided to try to fix my problem with not having enough head room. A year or two ago I removed the plastic spacers under the seat back, which allowed the seat to fall back a little farther. This did help with the head room issue, but the seat has continued to go back further over time. Now it's laying way too far back. I just cut about 1 1/4 inch out of the foam in the seat bottom. I will reinstall the upholstery and plastic seat stops and see if that is enough. Next step will be to cut the plastic stops down a little or find a helmet that does not sit up so high above my head. Anyone else dealt with this issue?
  5. Ok guys. I don't have a bog, I have trouble getting hooked up sometimes. I lowered the rear tire press. to 16 (from 20) and that seemed to help. As stated above the converter is a factory CJ (that has been rebuilt for a little more stall). It is a 10" converter that was rated at approx. 3000 stall (it was built for my old 357 c.i. engine) as built by Broader trans. So with the much greater torque of the 408, I'm sure it will stall a little higher. The carb is from Pro-systems it flows approx. 800 cfm. For right now shift rpm is 6000 rpm. Initial timing is 16, total is 32 (all in by 2800). Cranking compression is 215 psi. so I will be slowly increasing total timing. I will jet for mph when I can get more runs in the spring. Then I will try slight timing changes. The main thing I feel I need to do is get a burn out/launch routine with the drag radials. I will also decrease the lash by .004" to lose a little bottom end torque. The only work done on the heads is I smoothed the bowls and short turn. The blue thunder intake plenum has been worked a little to equalize flow between runners, and the divider notch has been enlarged. The cam is from a prominent builder that does not like cam specs disclosed, so I will not mention the name. I would not recommend this little seat dur. with this much .050" duration because it limits rpm with a valvetrain his heavy. This cam requires edm lifters for additional oiling, and is also nitrided. spring press. is 400/170. This was a budget build with a lot of parts I had lying around. Ok guys. I don't have a bog, I have trouble getting hooked up sometimes. I lowered the rear tire press. to 16 (from 20) and that seemed to help. As stated above the converter is a factory CJ (that has been rebuilt for a little more stall). It is a 10" converter that was rated at approx. 3000 stall (it was built for my old 357 c.i. engine) as built by Broader trans. So with the much greater torque of the 408, I'm sure it will stall a little higher. The carb is from Pro-systems it flows approx. 800 cfm. For right now shift rpm is 6000 rpm. Initial timing is 16, total is 32 (all in by 2800). Cranking compression is 215 psi. so I will be slowly increasing total timing. I will jet for mph when I can get more runs in the spring. Then I will try slight timing changes. The main thing I feel I need to do is get a burn out/launch routine with the drag radials. I will also decrease the lash by .004" to lose a little bottom end torque. The only work done on the heads is I smoothed the bowls and short turn. The blue thunder intake plenum has been worked a little to equalize flow between runners, and the divider notch has been enlarged. The cam is from a prominent builder that does not like cam specs disclosed, so I will not mention the name. I would not recommend this little seat dur. with this much .050" duration because it limits rpm with a valvetrain his heavy. This cam requires edm lifters for additional oiling, and is also nitrided. spring press. is 400/170. This was a budget build with a lot of parts I had lying around.
  6. Hey Guys I finally got my car out to the track before it closed for the year. This is a full weight 72 mach 1 with a 250# driver, mild 408 c (10.3:1 comp, closed chamber heads, blue thunder intake, 750 dp, small solid lifter cam 268/274 seat dur, (239/244 @ .050) .615"/.598 lift. Trans is a c6 built with lower 1st and 2nd gear (2.72/1.54), converter is a stock CJ converter with a little more stall, and a 3.50 gear with a trac loc. Tires are 255 60 R15 m.t. et street radials. Headers are 1 3/4" primary into 3" collectors into 2 1'2" mandrel bent exhaust with x-pipe and dynomax ultra flows and tails. This car runs 91 0ctane and was cammed to give enough vac. for the power brakes. This was with a baseline tune with no timing or jetting changes made yet. My best time was a 12.27 @ 109, with a 1.811 6o ft, and a 7.81 1/8 mi @88.96. Carb was rich at 12.2 afr. I was having to feather the throttle off the line and then roll into it. I think that there's more left in it with tuning and driving time. I was hoping to make some passes with the dumps open, but ran out of time. I have a 30 min. drive to track (highway) then run with no cooldown. Any tips or reccomendations appreciated.
  7. Hey Guys I am dropping the price to $500 and I will pay shipping. Thanks, Tom
  8. Mike , what are the part numbers on those belts? Thanks, Tom
  9. Hey guys here are some pics of the headers. These fit perfectly. No interference with steering box, or anywhere else. You can even get the stock starter in/out with the headers in place. The headers are ceramic coated inside and out. I have had these several years but probably only used for a few hundred miles (the car does not get driven much). There is a small scrape on the bottom of one collector flange and a couple of small dings from getting the headers in/out. For the price of a new set of painted headers that will rust away, you can buy these and not have to worry about them looking like hell in 6 mo. Thanks, Tom:D
  10. Hey guys. I'm been reading this forum for a while, and thought I should introduce myself. I have owned my 72 mach 1 for 18 years. It is a 351 4V car with the C6 tranny. It now has a 408C, wide ratio C6 (lower 1st/2nd gear) and a 9" rear with 3.50 gears and 31 spline axles. This car car been a long project because I have done all mechanical work and bodywork myself as time and money allowed. I have been a Cleveland freak for 30 years. I also owned a 73 grande that was Cleveland powered back in the early-mid 80's. I am still working on the interior of my car (I just need to focus on the little things instead of all the performance stuff).
  11. For Sale: Ceramic coated Hooker 6211 Super Comp Headers for 351C 4V in 71-73 mustang/cougar. 2" pri., 3 1/2" collector. Great condition. No dents. These cost approx. $900 new. I am selling these for $550 plus shipping. I will post pics soon. Thanks, Tom
  12. I am considering, replacing the foam on my seat bottom with some denser foam so that I can make it about 2" shorter. This will give me more headroom (the main reason I'm doing this), plus get my legs farther away from the wheel. Plus my arms will be closer the wheel and shifter. What I did before was remove the plastic spacers between the seat upper and lower. This allows the seat to lay back a little more. I am considering, replacing the foam on my seat bottom with some denser foam so that I can make it about 2" shorter. This will give me more headroom (the main reason I'm doing this), plus get my legs farther away from the wheel. Plus my arms will be closer the wheel and shifter. What I did before was remove the plastic spacers between the seat upper and lower. This allows the seat to lay back a little more.
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