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EvilPuppetMaster

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Everything posted by EvilPuppetMaster

  1. Not sure where it goes but I am positive it is key ON 12v positive wire. It should not touch the ground Alex
  2. I am almost 100% positive it is custom autosound brand. I have similar unit and it also has running horse on the tape cover Alex Here is mine...
  3. I am almost 100% positive it is custom autosound brand. I have similar unit and it also has running horse on the tape cover Alex
  4. So I got the engine back and look what I have discovered.... they had trouble installing their headers and covered 30-40% of exhaust port . No wonder engine had hard time pushing all that air out at high rpm
  5. I just did Dyno Simulation and wow i think its that cam that loses all the power at 4700 RPM.... Looking at the simulation is almost identical to the real thing except my power drop happens much faster after 4700 RPM. Regardless not sure if i should be buying another cam or just keep it the way it is. This is exactly what George Pence was talking about on another forum: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/clevelands/camshaft-lunati-voodoo-62503-t17527.html This cam selection business is very confusing indeed ;) . Cool! What software are you using? Dyno2000. It's old but seems to be fairly accurate.
  6. I just did Dyno Simulation and wow i think its that cam that loses all the power at 4700 RPM.... Looking at the simulation is almost identical to the real thing except my power drop happens much faster after 4700 RPM. Regardless not sure if i should be buying another cam or just keep it the way it is. This is exactly what George Pence was talking about on another forum: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/clevelands/camshaft-lunati-voodoo-62503-t17527.html This cam selection business is very confusing indeed ;) .
  7. Good call on the cam. I did not think about that. I'll run that info by the machine shop to see what they say. What cam did you end up choosing? I will also be running efi with this engine. I got fitech running on my old one really well. So I spoke to speedmaster techs and they agreed with my engine builder that the manifold is running out of air. I bought their smallest low profile manifold. They suggested that I go with their highrise (fusion funnel style) intake. They just dropped it down to 220 bucks so I bought it. As I said, I am building a street car and cant complain with 480 lb ft of torque. I just want to see if this was an issue so I will pay them to swap the intake and run it again. Should not cost me to much for the labour as the engine is still on the dyno. Let you know how it goes. Alex
  8. Thanks for your help. The carb we used for most of the pulls was 750 mechanical secondary's.
  9. You probably did not see my question from the previous post where I asked if I could use 3v CHI manifold with speedmaster heads. So No, I do not want to buy manifold from the same company but will do if I cant use any other 3v intake that will fit those heads. i'll just go with high-rise intake instead
  10. The we discussed in this thread last year: Lunati 62503: •Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276 •Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 227/233 •Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .552/.564 •LSA/ICL: 110/106 •RPM Range: 2000-6000 We tried 3 different Carbs: 600cfm holley, 750 cfm and 900 something not sure. The footprint was pretty much the same. It made less power with the bigger carb. 600 cfm was running around 405hp at the same rpm but much leaner A/F ratio. Jetting was not right but the idea was to see if we can get same footprint /graph on the dyno. I included youtube video of the last run in my previous post so have a look and see if something jumps at you by looking at the vacuum gauge Alex
  11. Don, I have no doubt that If I can figure out what the restriction/issue is this engine will make over 500 HP. I am already happy with the torque numbers Alex
  12. Hey, no hard feelings here. I knew what I was getting into. It was simple decision to save money. CHI heads are about 2400 dollars while these heads cost me 1000 and that is with all updated valve train components. This is not going to be racing engine and it will not see lots of action past 5000 rpm but I am puzzled with this issue and would like to get to the bottom of it. So while my engine is still on DYno, I would like to try maybe replacing manifold and lifters to see if this condition improves. I forgot to say, that our last test was with the vacuum gauge attached to the manifold. We expected to see turbulence at that RPM but we did not get anything major... It was fluctuating a bit around 0 . I'll see if I can add that run to youtube and I'll post the link here. link: I was wandering if I can use let's say CHI 3v manifold with these speedmaster heads? I will call the vendor later to ask. Alex
  13. That seems strange. If you have hydraulic lifters it should go all the way up to 6k or 6.5k. I am sure there will be others here with more knowledge replying. I don't know if that will all be due to the manifold. It is choking somewhere. Maybe the lifters, or something not well adjusted with the valve train. Did you measure total valve lift with oil pressure (if hydraulic lifters)? Cam advance? Did you guys degree the cam? The engine builder did all the work. I assume he knows what he is doing. they build mostly big blocks and race engine but definitely very knowledgeable BTW, oil pressure stayed around 77 PSI the whole run. We did more then 10 in total. each time we changed something to see if the issue goes away. The engine runs strong. No valve train noise. The whole dyno session and troubleshooting lasted almost 7 hours :) Alex
  14. OK guys, so after almost one year the engine was built and dynoed today. However, we have an issue.... So as i said, i went with the 408 cleveland stroker kit and speedmaster 220cc 3v aluminum heads. All internals (valve train) that came with the heads have been replaced with quality parts. Anyways, i bought 3v speedmaster intake as well to match the heads. So long story short it made 422 HP at 4600 RPM and 482 lb-ft of torque at same 4600 RPM at 4700 RPM fall of on its face hard... It goes down to 429 lb-ft of torque and 384 HP from then down it keeps dropping power. We never pushed it past 5000 RPM... So builder thought it is ignition problem so we changed ignition and boom same problem at same RPM. Changed spark plugs, wires, checked Fuel Pressure, cleaned fuel filter, changed 3 carbs ... Same problem at the same RPM They said it should not be valve float since they checked the spring pressures and it is matching cam... Suspected lifters issues but ruled that out later because it does not matter if its cold or warm engine pull it drops down at 4600 RPM. You can tell that it wants to climb up higher but something is happening and it is falling on its face. So the last thing it was suggested is to replace crappy Chinese intake. It is the low profile speedmaster intake manifold. Overall , i am happy with the build and 422 HP and 480 lb-ft of torques at 4600 RPM but i feel that it is much more capable than that So i am planning to replace the manifold with again speedmaster highrise 3v manifold but i am not sure if I am going to have clearance issues with my hood. Do you guys think that manifold could be an issue and what other intake manifold could fit these speedmaster 3v heads? (sorry, i just noticed that Graph and data image are from 2 different pulls but they are all almost identical) I am attaching dyno sheet.(nice Christmass tree :D ) Thanks Alex
  15. Thanks Turns out I don't have the back window panel for a fold down, just non fold down. I do have on quarter panel for the passenger side though (it will need to be stripped - someone painted it black over the blue). It is a 72/73 as it has the seatbelt hole. [/url] Thanks so much for looking into this for me. I already have Quarter panels so I do not need those however still looking for those corner quarter panels. If you come across pair of those just let me know Alex
  16. I believe I have the panel under the rear window. Will get you a picture this week. Thanks
  17. Looking for both Quarter panel corner trims and panel above trap door. See attached image Please PM me what you got and the price I also have US address so no need to ship to Canada directly Thanks Alex
  18. Yes please . I am looking for both corner quarter panel trims as well as panel under the window. I'll send you PM. Thanks Alex
  19. Thanks HemiKiller. I now know what they are called and can find some for other years except for 71-73 fastback. I did not realize they are so hard to find cheers Alex
  20. Hi guys My car is missing these two pieces (see attached image) but I do not know what they are called so that I can find them on the net... Can you help me please? I have 72 Mach1 Thanks Alex
  21. Let's revive this old thread since there is constant need for this bezel... So, I need one as well . Please pm me if you have one . I dont really care about condition. Just want to close the hole ;) cheers Alex
  22. He he he ... What did I tell you on the second page post 11? I was chasing same issue for months it was gasket between heads and manifold except in my case tightening manifold bolts closed the gap and fixed the issue Cheers Alex
  23. Hi guys So i am preparing to switch to fitech efi And converted my tank using tankinc pa-4 retrofit kit I am venting from the rollover valve to the outside of my tank just wandering if you guys think that is good and safe way to vent the tank I believe my gas cap is non vented style Here is one image... it was taken before I added rollover valve with foot long hose attached to it.it is pointed to vent at the back of the tank. Thanks Alex what is the molar mass of nh4 2so4
  24. Then I might wait until car is painted and interior is back together before I brake it in. I have another engine in it now so I am not in rush. What is the best way to preserve the engine for 6 months or so? I dont want any rust developing inside Cheers Alex That isn't what he meant !! HE meant "will sit idle" for 6 months (probably longer) WHILE continuing restoration. From reading this post - he knows to fire and get to 2500/3000 RPM at once and DUMP the oil from that period . AS TO not "rusting" - you just want to keep it sealed. (never remove plugs on a motor that will sit) Nor would you move a carb UNLESS you tape seal from the atmosphere. Mark Thanks for all your help guys. Really appreciate it Alex
  25. I had an issue like that that I was chasing for months. It was an internal leak between heads and intake manifold. Tighten your intake manifold bolts to 25 ft-lbs and try again Alex
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