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MotoArts

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Everything posted by MotoArts

  1. Hi all, It's been a while, but I still have and am working on my '71 "lifetime" Sportsroof project. Basically wondering if there have been any new header offerings in the past few years for a 460/C8 heads w/dished piston/Performer intake/Lunati Bracket Master/C6 combo. I searched here but didn't see anything promising. A shorty header is preferred, but do not want the multi piece Hooker style long tubes due to undercar clearance issues and living in war torn Pittsburgh. I wrote off FPA shorties a while back after reading about more than one steering box clearance issue (I refuse to whack on any of 'em). I called Sanderson years ago regarding fitment on their offerings, and received a curt "uhhh, I don't know" for an answer. Further questioning and asking for additional assistance got me a very unenthusiastic nowhere. There's a new Patriot "universal" and a China knock-off version on the auction site, but look to me to be dumping pretty far forward and vertical... as in steering box and/or engine mount problems. I'll build my own if it comes down to it. I have the Lincoln manifolds that came with the engine, and am not even sure that the outlets will clear since the engine is not in the car yet. Thanks!
  2. I haven't checked on this subject in quite a while... Wondering if there have been any introductions of new headers for TJ applications in the past few years. I live in Pittsburgh, and that pretty much rules out low slung tubes like the Hookers or Crites due to the mine fields and corn rows that they pass for roads here. I would actually prefer mid length, but have not read any consistent info regarding *perfect* fitment of the FPA's. My combo is a mid 70's Lincoln 460 with C8 heads. It has not been installed in my car to check fitment of the Lincoln manifolds that I have. Does anyone know if these would even fit the '71-73 (exit angle and such)? If not, which ones will? The exhaust conundrum is one of the bigger things keeping me from big blockin' it, since I have a 5.0, an alloy headed 351W and the original C as options. Thanks in advance.
  3. I have 2 OE Ford intakes, one square bore and one spreadbore. They both have been out in the weather for a long time, but seem to be functional. Yes there is pitting everywhere. No, I do not see any cracks or stripped threads. Maybe one of these will hit the date code lottery for you. Free to good home, pick up near Pittsburgh, PA 15068. Sorry, but I really do not want to ship these. Email motoarts@yahoo.com or IM here please. intakes, one square bore and one spreadbore. They both have been out in the weather for a long time, but seem to be functional. Yes there is pitting everywhere. No, I do not see any cracks or stripped threads but there might me one that I missed. I can inspect closer if need be. Free to good home, pick up near Pittsburgh, PA 15068. Sorry, but I really do not want to ship these. Email motoarts@yahoo.com or IM here please.
  4. Not yet, but I will. Found this 23 channel beauty in a junkyard and polished it up, along with a Craig AM/FM/8-track with quick release anti-theft underdash slider (yes, it still works). I'll keep Steppenwolf and Creedence for it in memory of my Dad ;)
  5. I've been cleaning small brackets and hardware in Muriatic acid in a plastic coffee container for some time now. Oh, yeah it's wicked caustic stinky stuff, but works like magic... fast magic, too. Neutralize with baking soda/water in a bucket. Been DIY zinc plating a number of these small parts, too. I use an old marine anode for boat outdrives. Doesn't come out like new shiny zinc, but haven't tried any brightening agents (ie. saccharin) yet either. A quick buff with some fine steel wool works for what I'm using it for (old dirt bike OE hardware restoration). Also have tried hot oil blackening some of the bolts instead of black painting them. Looks good, but haven't really tested their resistance to the elements yet.
  6. Doggone it. Couldn't hardly be further away from Pittsburgh :( Sigh.
  7. Kevin, maybe I missed it but what tool(s) are you using to remove the existing paint? A Dynazip style wire wheel? Followed up by ??? Looks great!
  8. As mentioned above, I like paint THINNER (mineral spirits) for a job like this. Always test the plastic, but I can say over many jobs of cleaning adhesive off of boats, cars, aircraft, etc., thinner hasn't let me down and attacked any surfaces that I've cleaned. Not the fastest, but safest IMO. Wipe in one direction, turning the cloth regularly. Use a small cloth folded into a 2" square, keeping it wet. Wax and grease remover kinda feels and smells like it would work, but it just is not aggressive enough. Anything more aggressive (stripper, acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.) is positively not recommended for that job. Don't even think about it. Any old "dry" adhesive will need to be scraped off. After all adhesive is removed, clean well with dish soap and water to remove contaminates so any new adhesive will stick. Trust me on this step.
  9. I'm a big fan of the LED's in my daily drivers and motorcycles. No issues, except with turn signals (1157) and one oddball offroad motorcycle head light fitment. Standard 1156, 194's, etc. are no problem. I like the newer COB technology.
  10. I haven't heard of it either. Something new for me to check out at work tomorrow ::thumb::
  11. I've seen pictures of some Shelby Boss Mach 1 convertible coupes that needed these decals to complete their 100 point restorations. Some of them I think were even Frank Cone, Ram Air editions with reverse mounted deck spoilers.
  12. What is the current opinion of the Delrin strut rod bushings nowadays? I know rubber is generally too soft and poly is too hard (leading to rod breakage). I have a set of Midolyne bushings, and don't remember if they are recommended or not especially compared to Delrin.
  13. I have two C6's, but both are mid '70's Lincoln 460 applications. I've heard that the tail shafts are longer in the Lincoln compared to any Mustang, but I'm not certain. Also have (what I believe is) a freshly rebuilt, no fluid small block C6 that I can't seem to be able to sell for $175, which I thought was a giveaway price.
  14. My opinion is, aftermarket is purely a crap shoot. One brand, regardless of price, may fit perfectly on one application (or production run for that particular part), and another may fit horribly on another. I work in the aftermarket business. Not necessarily vintage Mustang specifically, but we do sell (some sporadic) vintage replacement parts as well as current late model stuff. The only consistency that I've noticed is the inconsistency, and it just isn't in sheetmetal parts (ie. lights, wheels, fender liners, etc.). Unfortunately, that's just the way it is, and most likely is going to be. On the bright side, a vast majority of the parts that go out of our door daily fit and function very, very well. Sometimes, better than OE, as I have seen poor fitting OE sheetmetal right out of the box first hand. I would absolutely suggest buying a large item such as a '71-73 hood from a local vendor that will allow you to inspect for shipping damage (very common) and fit to your particular car to avoid bad feelings about the purchase. I plan on a fiberglass hood for my car. I fully expect to have a somewhat large amount of time getting the gaps correct and removing waves in the surface. What I don't expect to do is repair heavily damaged corners or fragmented edges from being dropped on the edge of a dock or similar. I would also expect a sheetmetal hood to have few (or none if you're lucky) of those issues if I were buying one. Certainly not meaning to confuse things here, but would much rather you be aware of what I've experienced.
  15. If you inadvertently invert the +/- cables, it will smoke an alternator, pronto. Been there once :-/ .
  16. A few years ago I bought a VERY clean, loaded '93 LX with a 3.8 that was missing overdrive, for scrap value ($200). First through third worked flawlessly, but overdrive was like neutral. It is a common problem regarding the AOD trans with the nylon grommet falling apart at the throttle body where the TV cable attaches. When it fails, the trans no longer receives info from throttle position, and will not direct proper pressure for the trans fluid, thus cooking OD. Major destruction from a 5 cent part, and not pulling over and checking the issue when it happens. I'm pretty sure the later years went to electronic control though. Otherwise, the aforementioned ball joint/control arms had already been replaced. Car was completely rust free, had one repaint. It drove very well, was very roomy, and had excellent suspension compliance if not a bit too mushy for my taste. The cars are built on the MN12 platform that came after the venerable Fox platform. Never heard of the MN12? That's ok, nobody else has either, LOL. Aftermarket support is near - if not zero (I work for a very large aftermarket body parts company)... no headlights, taillights, sheetmetal... you're up to the junkyard dogs if it gets crashed. Speaking of taillights, the trunk mounted running lights are LED and NOT repairable. They are very often non functional, leaving only the small quarter panel turn signals for lighting. I really liked it, despite lack of parts availability. I struggled to sell it after driving it for a year, and only mustered 600 bucks out of it to a friend. I was looking for 1200, and had zero bites on it at that. He drove it for another year, put zero dollars into it, and resold it for 600.
  17. Stock compression ratio is about 8:1 or a little less... As it sits, it will be very uninspiring at best, IMO. I have darned near the exact engine combo that Tommy described in an engine on a stand. - Mid 70's Lincoln, stock bottom end, dished pistons - C9 closed chamber heads, very minor porting - Lunati Bracketmaster hydraulic flat tappett #10340496 cam - Regular Edelbrock Performer, not RPM - Carb will most likely be the Holley #3310 750 that I have on a shelf - Harland Sharp roller rockers - Stock C6 with a vintage Hughes streetable converter One of the big things that will keep it out of my car will be exhaust choices... there aren't many. Manifolds, no problem. Headers are expensive, choices few, and quality (ie. perfect, no interference fit) is questionable from what I've read over the many years of considering this combo. Do I wanna use it? Oh hell yes. But the GT40 headed, B-303 cammed, stock rotating assembly'd 351W sitting next to it on another stand is calling to me. I wanna try it, too. Header choices galore, trans choices galore, intake choices... well, I have a few. I figure, if I hate it or blow it up, the 460 is there with bells on, waiting its turn. For storage, I did trim up a 2x4 that goes behind the balancer on the crank snout, down to the engine stand feet to relieve a majority of that torque that the backbone of the stand is supporting. A big block just isn't safe on a regular stand, please be careful.
  18. For 22 smackers, I want a radio that works... and - the - spoiler - on - correctly... :whistling:
  19. Kevin, We carry a similar 3-N-1 product that sounds similar to the U-Pol. It's among our best selling primers to the do it yourselfer and smaller shops. Claims to have grip on bare steel up to basketball sized areas. The only weak spot, if there is one, is as a wet on wet sealer it just isn't as "good" as some others in the smoothness. Think about it though, a true do it all product, whether is primer or dish soap or grass seed, really doesn't exist. I think, for your intended use, the U-Pol will be more than sufficient. Cavity wax that repair well, and it will likely outlast the rest of the truck. Aaaah, gotta love these PA roads...
  20. Two things that my Dad taught me years ago: A) Don't fix what ain't broke. B) Be sure you know where to "pinch the burning fuse" when it comes to "fixing up" an engine. It usually involves a SOLID game plan. So, if the engine... assuming it is a lower compression stock type rebuild... is fresh, it most likely will have a sub-10:1 compression ratio. Most likely, any solid flat tappet grind that has a rumpity engine note will make for a dog in the performance department. Be careful, choose the cam as a package... every engine component will affect the outcome. Back in the day, my high school Torino had a cool sounding lumpity hydro Crane cam, single plane Offenhouser with a 750 Holley on an otherwise stock 9:1 compression '69 351W and a stock FMX... only ran 15.40's with 4.11 gears. I had to force it to spin the rears. It was depressing and somewhat embarrassing. That was before I knew what component selection and intended use was all about. Yes, engine building is a loooong drawn out process with absolutely no black and white correct answers. Choose wisely.
  21. Eric, that's a VERY cool car with some really neat "silent" mods done to it! It (hopefully) may be an Alger - a converted Alpine. It has MkII headlight rings, but MkIA grill and interior. Seats appear to be from the Fox car, have a very OE Tiger upholstery pattern, and would have to be much nicer to use than the original lawn chairs. The wheel fitment is noteworthy, too. Stock Tigers have a HUGE track difference front to rear, where the rear is much narrower making over the counter wheel fitment a total nightmare especially back in the day. Stock wheels are tiny 13x5's with a 4" offset, LOL. There's properly offset 14x6 Panasports with 195/60 Dunlops on the green car, tires fitting perfectly flush with the fender, and they still just barely touch the RF sheetmetal (only when turning while backing up - I assume bushing/control arm flex). Wheel fitment to get "the look" on our '71-73's is a walk in the park compared to these suckers. Curiosity is going to kill me now! Gotta see how my 17x8/17x9 staggered Fox Saleen replicas look on it :) Wonky as they are, any of that era Brit car would probably be cool 5.0 swap candidates. Back before we were of legal drinking age, a buddy of mine had a stock TR4 that we'd cruise both cars to different places with. Even though his car looked good, he hated having the farty Farmall 4 banger bucket of bolts sound compared to the Ford V8 music.
  22. I agree, but I'm kinda partial. And, it's likely the only Lucas equipped vintage vehicle on the plant that may have all 4 (?) original fuses in place. No kidding. :)
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