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About mbrew2

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    Mustangs are cool

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    1973 mustang convertible


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  1. I have no interest in any of this stuff. Was just curious as to what value might be. I agree that if I needed a new engine, I would want to start with a clean, unmolested, block. This guy is asking $800 for everything but indicated he would accept any reasonable offer. It also occurred to me that somebody owned these blocks when the machine shop went out of business, have to wonder if they are missing them.
  2. Fellow down here has 3 351C blocks that have been machined. 1-DOAE-J , and 2 - D2AE-CA. 1 bored .030, 1bored .040, 1 not sure. all 2 bolt mains. Also 1 set of 2v heads machined with new guides but no springs. Says he bought them out of a machine shop going out of business to keep them from being scrapped. Has 1 set of re-sized rods. Any Idea what they are worth? He is asking for an offer.
  3. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/233683231260768/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined
  4. Not a carb guru, but here's my advise from experience. My car had an eldelbrock 1406 on it when I bought it. Thought it ran OK but had constant problems with running rich and bad heat soak when it got hot. Tried everything anybody suggested. Finally gave up and swapped it for a Summit carb with electric choke. Presto! All problems solved. Cold - turn switch on, pump accelerator once - fires right up. Hot - don't pump, just crank - starts like its fuel injected. Also discovered that Eldebrock was sensitive to fuel pressure which made it almost impossible to tune. My fuel pump was producing alm
  5. So, What are coil recommendations. What are ya'll running. Really don't want to get stranded somewhere on the road again!
  6. 73 351 2V, Mostly stock except for Summit 600cfm carb, Eldebrock performer intake and Mallory Unilite Dist. Replaced ignition module in dist. last year. Few months later had to replace the Accel coil - it had cracked and was shorting out. Was on the car when I got it 3-4 years ago. Same thing happened today. Accel coil cracked at base of coil wire tower and is shorting out. I there a known problem with standard Accel coils or is something else happening to cause it? This one has been on the car less than a year. Car runs great - until it doesn't. Coincidence that this started when I replaced
  7. Wish I had seen the post earlier. I have a set of these subframe connectors, never installed, that I would sell for $125 plus shipping. Also, to complete the handling package, I have some lightly used 1" drop front 600# springs that I would sell for $40 plus shipping. also have a new, never installed set of Gabrial shocks to finish it up.
  8. I installed what was supposed to be a "Perfect Fit" system in my 73 vert with factory air. My kit does not use any of the factory brackets or pulleys. It came with a compressor mount that bolted to the front of the driver side head, which I kind of liked because it moved the compressor from basically on top of the motor to lower in front of the head/valve cover. The mount is a 2-piece part with the compressor mount slotted to allow back and forth adjustment for pulley alignment. The kit did not include a tensioner and would not adjust enough to line up with the factory 3rd A/C pulley on the cr
  9. OK, yesterday I replaced the A/C and alternator belts on my car. Backed it into the driveway and ran it for a while at various RPMs and loads to seat the belts so that i could re-tension if needed. Blipped the throttle twice pretty hard and heard a loud bang under the hood followed by a pretty nasty rattle. Thought the A/C compressor had blown up. Went out this morning and found several pieces of rubber-like material in the drive. Cranked the engine to try and find the rattle and noticed that the balancer had come completely apart. The rattle was the outer timing ring sliding back and forth ov
  10. I'm going in a different direction. When I bought my 73 there was a terrible vibration that I could only feel thru the steering wheel when within a certain speed range. Actually felt like the steering wheel would "wobble" back and forth, especially when cold. After going through all the motions and aggravation that you have been thru, it was finally diagnosed and fixed as a worn tailshaft bushing in the trans. Last place to check since I could only feel it in the steering wheel and nowhere else, not even on the shifter.
  11. This may be one of those "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth" questions but I have to ask. How plausible is it to have a 1973 convertible that spent 35 years in the eastern Maryland/Washington, DC area and then another 10 years in coastal Florida/Gulf of Mexico area to be "rust free"? When I bought this car in 2016, I went over it thoroughly with a paint thickness gauge and could find no evidence of body filler anywhere except for a probable accident repair about midway up the driver side door. While having repairs made (transmission and front suspension) the mechanics volunteered as to ho
  12. My car has had a power antenna installed. Baseplate/fender attachment looks original and not very expensive.
  13. When I purchased our 73 H code convertible almost 3 years ago I was given a 3-ring binder supposedly containing maintenance and repair records. I never looked at it until last week. Opening the book you find color printouts and pictures from an internet for sale ad dated 9/2006. The car was advertised as one-family owned since new with 79000 miles and in excellent original condition. No price was shown. Next was the section titled Maintenance Records. I was surprised at how organized these records were kept with actual work orders and invoices arranged chronologically from newest to oldes
  14. That would be great! Just let me know how much and how to order them from you. I assume they will come with original used rubber inserts also. I only need the 1 larger one but if you only sell as a pair thats OK.
  15. Can anyone verify the radiator size for a 73 factory AC car. I purchase a Cold-Case alum radiator and electric fan kit hopefully to help with my overheating problems while in traffic. Of course was supposed to be a drop--in direct replacement. My existing radiator tanks are approx 3 in deep on driver side and 2.5 inches on passenger side. The upper radiator saddles that attach to the core support are sized appropriately with the passenger side being approx 1/2 inch shorter than the driver side. The new radiator is approx 2 7/8 inches on both ends and the passenger side mount will not work.
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