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Everything posted by mbrew2

  1. If you are thinking of lowering the car be cautious about installing the frame connectors. On my 73 vert I had installed eaton springs 1" drop springs. That drop with 225/60/15 BFGs on the front only left about 4" of ground clearance with the frame connectors in place. I really wanted Frame connectors on the convertible but now have to decide whether to go back to a stock height spring or get taller tires or some combination of both to get adequate ground clearance for everyday street use.
  2. I have no interest in any of this stuff. Was just curious as to what value might be. I agree that if I needed a new engine, I would want to start with a clean, unmolested, block. This guy is asking $800 for everything but indicated he would accept any reasonable offer. It also occurred to me that somebody owned these blocks when the machine shop went out of business, have to wonder if they are missing them.
  3. Fellow down here has 3 351C blocks that have been machined. 1-DOAE-J , and 2 - D2AE-CA. 1 bored .030, 1bored .040, 1 not sure. all 2 bolt mains. Also 1 set of 2v heads machined with new guides but no springs. Says he bought them out of a machine shop going out of business to keep them from being scrapped. Has 1 set of re-sized rods. Any Idea what they are worth? He is asking for an offer.
  4. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/233683231260768/?ref=category_feed&referral_code=undefined
  5. Not a carb guru, but here's my advise from experience. My car had an eldelbrock 1406 on it when I bought it. Thought it ran OK but had constant problems with running rich and bad heat soak when it got hot. Tried everything anybody suggested. Finally gave up and swapped it for a Summit carb with electric choke. Presto! All problems solved. Cold - turn switch on, pump accelerator once - fires right up. Hot - don't pump, just crank - starts like its fuel injected. Also discovered that Eldebrock was sensitive to fuel pressure which made it almost impossible to tune. My fuel pump was producing almost 8 psi. Installed a fuel pressure regulator set at 6.5 to 6.75 psi and never looked back. Car regularly sits for weeks and still always starts right up. Only time it didn't, it had sat for 6 weeks with front wheels on ramps, even then, it started, but died until drained fuel lines filled. I've run Holley 670 and 770 Street avengers and 750 double pumpers and while the Summit carb may not be the ultimate performance carb, it gets the job done and cranks when I want it to - every time.
  6. So, What are coil recommendations. What are ya'll running. Really don't want to get stranded somewhere on the road again!
  7. 73 351 2V, Mostly stock except for Summit 600cfm carb, Eldebrock performer intake and Mallory Unilite Dist. Replaced ignition module in dist. last year. Few months later had to replace the Accel coil - it had cracked and was shorting out. Was on the car when I got it 3-4 years ago. Same thing happened today. Accel coil cracked at base of coil wire tower and is shorting out. I there a known problem with standard Accel coils or is something else happening to cause it? This one has been on the car less than a year. Car runs great - until it doesn't. Coincidence that this started when I replaced ignition module?
  8. Wish I had seen the post earlier. I have a set of these subframe connectors, never installed, that I would sell for $125 plus shipping. Also, to complete the handling package, I have some lightly used 1" drop front 600# springs that I would sell for $40 plus shipping. also have a new, never installed set of Gabrial shocks to finish it up.
  9. I installed what was supposed to be a "Perfect Fit" system in my 73 vert with factory air. My kit does not use any of the factory brackets or pulleys. It came with a compressor mount that bolted to the front of the driver side head, which I kind of liked because it moved the compressor from basically on top of the motor to lower in front of the head/valve cover. The mount is a 2-piece part with the compressor mount slotted to allow back and forth adjustment for pulley alignment. The kit did not include a tensioner and would not adjust enough to line up with the factory 3rd A/C pulley on the crank. CAA told me that it was designed to use the alternator as a tensioner which requires a pretty long belt. I wasn't too happy about putting that much pressure on the alternator bearings but it has worked for almost 3 years now with no problems except for occasional belt squeal. I think I stopped that by going to a 1/2 inch wide belt. Overall, I am pleased with the unit and their electronic controls.
  10. OK, yesterday I replaced the A/C and alternator belts on my car. Backed it into the driveway and ran it for a while at various RPMs and loads to seat the belts so that i could re-tension if needed. Blipped the throttle twice pretty hard and heard a loud bang under the hood followed by a pretty nasty rattle. Thought the A/C compressor had blown up. Went out this morning and found several pieces of rubber-like material in the drive. Cranked the engine to try and find the rattle and noticed that the balancer had come completely apart. The rattle was the outer timing ring sliding back and forth over the front of the balancer and hitting the block or something on the back side. Question is : 1 any recommendations on a replacement balancer ? and , 2 can this be replaced with the engine in the car? Looks awfully close to front crossmember with the additional A/C pulley. Wish it HAD been the A/C compressor - would have been much easier. 73 351C H-code.
  11. I'm going in a different direction. When I bought my 73 there was a terrible vibration that I could only feel thru the steering wheel when within a certain speed range. Actually felt like the steering wheel would "wobble" back and forth, especially when cold. After going through all the motions and aggravation that you have been thru, it was finally diagnosed and fixed as a worn tailshaft bushing in the trans. Last place to check since I could only feel it in the steering wheel and nowhere else, not even on the shifter.
  12. This may be one of those "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth" questions but I have to ask. How plausible is it to have a 1973 convertible that spent 35 years in the eastern Maryland/Washington, DC area and then another 10 years in coastal Florida/Gulf of Mexico area to be "rust free"? When I bought this car in 2016, I went over it thoroughly with a paint thickness gauge and could find no evidence of body filler anywhere except for a probable accident repair about midway up the driver side door. While having repairs made (transmission and front suspension) the mechanics volunteered as to how clean and solid the car was underneath. Being a little surprised and having expected the worst, while it was on a lift having the front suspension replaced I asked to borrow a hammer from the shop owner. I then, with a bad attitude, proceeded to beat the crap out of every piece of metal that was exposed - trunk drop-offs, frame rails, rockers, floorpan and as much of firewall as I could reach. My intention was that if there were any soft areas, I was going to go ahead and knock a hole in it so that I would know what repairs were needed. Other than some light surface rust - nothing - solid as a rock. I did find a small rusty area at the bottom of the driver front fender near the door/cowl area but nothing that needed immediate attention. That was 3 years ago. I recently discovered 3 small pin-holes in the driver rear quarter behind the wheel. Can't see these from the outside because they are in the black accent paint just below the accent moulding but can see light coming through when looking into the trunk drop-of. Front fender rust spot has gotten worse and will soon need repair. When i bought the car it came with a notebook full of detailed mechanical repair records covering 20 years but there was nothing mentioning bodywork. I know that the car had been in a minor wreck and had been repainted sometime after 2008 but none of that is in the records. I guess my question is : If its not reasonable for the car to survive this long with no metal repair, how do I tell if floorpans, trunk, body panels have been replaced ?
  13. My car has had a power antenna installed. Baseplate/fender attachment looks original and not very expensive.
  14. When I purchased our 73 H code convertible almost 3 years ago I was given a 3-ring binder supposedly containing maintenance and repair records. I never looked at it until last week. Opening the book you find color printouts and pictures from an internet for sale ad dated 9/2006. The car was advertised as one-family owned since new with 79000 miles and in excellent original condition. No price was shown. Next was the section titled Maintenance Records. I was surprised at how organized these records were kept with actual work orders and invoices arranged chronologically from newest to oldest. Most records not only were dated but also showed mileage. Looking through the repair records, and remembering that the car was advertised as "1 family owned" rather than as "1 owner, I speculate that the car was passed down/inherited to maybe a son or grandson with no mechanical ability or money. Also that the car had been sitting up for a while. One of the earliest receipts is for a "used" 205/75/14 tire, followed by a service order that said "car won't run". The mechanic's repair notes "bad gas, water and trash in tank and carb" pulled and flushed tank, cleaned out fuel lines, cleaned and rebuilt carb. Few months later another "used" tire was purchased. 2 years later there is a receipt for 2 new tires showing mileage as 75080. While probably not 100% complete, it is clear that every effort was made to maintain the car and keep up with needed repairs. Receipts cover repair or replacement of almost every major mechanical component. In Feb 2008, the car was shipped from Kennsington Maryland to a new owner in Boca Raton, Fl at a cost of $695. Title records indicate the mileage as 79945. In April 2008, at 80340 miles, the engine was completely rebuilt including an edelbrock intake and carb, mallory distributor and coil, new wires, etc. at a cost of $7149. Other receipts indicate power steering rebuild, alternator, and several minor upgrades. In March of 2011, with 82947 miles, the car was sold to a lady in Fairhope, Al. She added $2246 in receipts to the book. She sold the car with 86177 miles to a lady in Gautier, MS. She added $1641 in receipts which was mostly for a Magnum 500/BFG wheel and tire package from CJ Pony parts. I was coerced into buying the car from her in Oct 2016 with 90150 miles. 2 things jumped out at me reviewing these records: 1. At the time that I purchased the car, receipts show that $31296 had been spent on the car and that in the past 20 years the car had only been driven 15070 miles. 2. there were no receipts for body work. I did not want to buy this car. When I first looked at the car I went over it thoroughly with a paint thickness gauge and was surprised to find that there was no body filler anywhere on the car EXCEPT for on the front 1/3 of the drivers door about halfway up from the bottom. Not a likely spot for rust repair. Closer examination showed evidence that the driver side fender had been replaced along with the hood. The headlight bucket support on the driver side was slightly bent that put enough tension on the grill mounting points that the the bolts had pulled through the plastic. The car had what appeared to be an older cheap repaint with overspray visibly on the trim. Obviously had been hit on the front driver side but probably only a minor wreck. It got worse when I took the car for a test drive. Transmission was worn out, engine stumbled and was running so rich that it was blowing black smoke out exhaust, serious drivetrain vibration at about 45 mph, dash lights didn't work, A/C didn't work and blower only ran on low speed and only though floor outlets, and the worst is that after a 10 min drive the temp was at 235. I suggested to the owner that she not drive the car until it cooled down and told her it was up to 235 in only a short drive. She looked perplexed and asked me what it should be!! I politely told her I would have to think it over and left. My problem was that the car was PRETTY, and I had taken my wife with me to look at it. I admit the car was pretty, white with a medium blue top that almost perfectly matched the medium blue interior, shiny new magnum 500s and even with the cheap paint job, the car showed well. I also saw the grin on my wife's face when we were doing the test drive with the top down. We looked at the car on a Friday and over the weekend my wife repeatedly asked me what about the Mustang. As I tried to explain the mechanical problems and cost she would come back with "you can fix that", "That car is really pretty", "I would drive it every day" and finally, when she asked if we could go back and look at it again on Monday, I realized I was doomed to buy her that car. So now, almost 3 years later, we are the proud owners of a really pretty Mustang convertible and I can add $6917 in receipts to the book. I don't regret it. Even though I think I paid $4000-5000 too much for the car and am probably $10000-12000 upside down in it, we have enjoyed it tremendously and it constantly draws comments everywhere we go. I use it as my daily driver and have put over 8500 miles on after I got most of the mechanical issues taken care of. It still makes my wife smile.
  15. That would be great! Just let me know how much and how to order them from you. I assume they will come with original used rubber inserts also. I only need the 1 larger one but if you only sell as a pair thats OK.
  16. Can anyone verify the radiator size for a 73 factory AC car. I purchase a Cold-Case alum radiator and electric fan kit hopefully to help with my overheating problems while in traffic. Of course was supposed to be a drop--in direct replacement. My existing radiator tanks are approx 3 in deep on driver side and 2.5 inches on passenger side. The upper radiator saddles that attach to the core support are sized appropriately with the passenger side being approx 1/2 inch shorter than the driver side. The new radiator is approx 2 7/8 inches on both ends and the passenger side mount will not work. 1. does the factory radiator sizes sound correct for an A/C car or have I had the wrong radiator all along? 2. the only way the new radiator will work is if the passenger side mount is the same as the driver side. Is there a source for these upper mounts? I can't find any for a 71-73 from any of the usual vendors.
  17. Is it safe , or workable, to plug a phone charger or any other device such as an invertor into the cigarette lighter as a 12 volt source.
  18. Thanks for the heads-up about the Mallory distributor. I have ordered a new module that should be here tomorrow. Hopefully that will solve my problem.
  19. Has to be a real trade-off. I had Flowmaster 40's on my car and loved to sound - but just couldn't live with the drone and found that nothing could be done about. They would be OK if you just drive the car occasionally and not much on the highway. I use my car as a daily driver and switched to turbos which still have a little rumble but no drone.
  20. UPDATE: Shortly after posting this my problem magically disappeared - until now. The issue stopped after I was leaving my house with the engine cold and choke partially on. As I hit the street, I floored it. Motor bogged down a little, Backfired thru the carb, and picked right up. Has not shut off since until about a week ago and now having same problem. Just shuts off going down the road. I can put it neutral, crank it, and it immediately re-starts and runs normally. I have checked all electrical connections to choke, coil, and distributor and can't find any loose connections. Thought maybe a fuel issue or trash in the new carb but can't make sense out of that since it immediately restarts with no hesitation. It has a mallory unilte distributor which I know nothing about. I currently have the primary fuel bowl set a little below the line per Summit recommendation. Only happens when it is cold. Other than checking all connections - I'm at a loss as to how to troubleshoot the issue since its an intermittent problem. Some days it will shut off twice before I get a mile from the house and sometimes not at all. Anywhere else I can look for the cause.
  21. I had a similar clicking noise that I thought was under the dash somewhere. Like you, I thought it sounded like a relay. Turns out it was the clock in the console. Unplugged it and clicking noise is gone.
  22. I do everything I can to help the new generation gain some appreciation for old cars. Easter weekend was beautiful down here so I asked these pretty little girls, 10, 16, 16, and 19 if they would like to go for a convertible ride. Showed them how to let the top down and turned them loose in my car. None of them had ever even sat in an older car, much less driven one. Only restriction I asked was if they got on the interstate, please don't go much over 100mph. They were gone maybe hour and half. When they got back they all were beaming and Lucy, the driver, told me it was the coolest car she had ever been in. Made my day. Just look at those smiles. upload image
  23. Interested, What other upgraded Items you might want to get rid of?
  24. Did you purchase the rear end or was it already in the car you bought? Can you give an estimate of weight so that I can figure shipping cost to Mobile,AL 36695
  25. Wonder if it's more common with the old cranks? I'm also curious about what another member was saying about it coming through the flywheel bolt holes? The bolt holes go all the way through so the oil in the pan gets slung onto the holes and since the thread to thread seal is not perfect, oil makes its way to the front side of the flywheel/flexplate and down. If it makes it alll the way to the backside of the flywheel it will ruin the clutch. It usually put 1-2 drops on the ground every time you park it after driving it. Some say just use a boat load of lock-tite and it won't leak. It didn't work for me on the 408C. I still need to pull the transmission to seal it up. What did work on the Boss 347 build was a thin coat of Grey Stuff on the crank to flywheel mating surface, lock-tite on the flywheel bolt threads, and Grey Stuff under the heads of the flywheel bolts. The threads need to be clean and dry. Who knows, perhaps your luck is better than mine. P.S. The B347 crank was a Molnar, also through drilled. Chuck Just want to add that I'm in no way bashing Scat cranks. This was about 15 years ago and there's no telling how many stroker cranks they have sold since then with no problems. Just my personal experience. By the way, for once in my life I was dealing with a shop that did all they could to solve the problem. I had installed a Tremec 3550 at the same time as the motor so I wasn't sure if the leak was from trans or motor. When trans came in, the input shaft was sticking out of the shipping crate. Suspecting that it had been damaged, I contacted the seller ( can't remember who) about the leaking and they paid for shipping for me to send it back for them to check it out. Found no problems with trans and also paid shipping to send it back to me. The motor was in the car when I took it back to the engine builder. He kept the car for a weekend, driving it and confirming the leak. He pulled the engine out of the car, tore it down, re-assembled, dyno tested, and re-installed everything back in the car at no cost to me.
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