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About Billyillyilly

  • Birthday 07/06/1974

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    73 Mach 1
    351C 2V
    FMX trans
    Has a lot of rust...


  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Region

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  1. As much as I hate to do it, my first car has to go. I got Mach 1 my senior year of high school in 1992. I’m out of time where I have it stored in Los Angeles and I have no feasible way of getting it to my new home in Texas. This is a 73 Mach 1, 351c 2bbl automatic with FMX trans (vin 3F05Hxxxxx, body 63R, color 2B, trim GA, trans X, axle 2, DSO 74). The car is completely disassembled for a ground up restoration I was barely able to start on before a job promotion moved me to Texas. The entire car is there, just in pieces and literally every part needs some work on it. The unibody has cancer around both front and rear windows, the floor boards, trunk deck, both rear quarters and rear panel will need to be replaced. The hood, trunk lid, and passenger door and front fenders are cancer free with some dents/dings. The driver side door has a block of wood supporting the internal cross member which had detached from an accident by the way it looks. (that was a nice surprise to find). The engine was rebuilt in ’94 then lost compression on 7 and 8 in 2003 and it hasn’t run since then. I believe it’s just a head gasket but I haven’t looked further than a compression test. The transmission (FMX) lost 2nd gear. So it’ll go from 1st to 3rd. There was no issue with the axle when it was last driven and the wheels do still turn on it. Most of the interior needs to be replaced. The dash is all but trash, the control panel is complete and functional, both front seats frames are broken (I was using 4x4’s to support the seat so I wouldn’t fall back… LOL, damn this car has some memories in it!) the back fold down seat was still in good condition but rear seat needs reupholstered. After the car was tore down, I stripped the paint off the unibody, gave it a acid bath, cleaned it again REALLY good and applied a red epoxy primer to everything that didn’t need to be replaced so it wouldn’t rust anymore. I was starting on the fenders when I last worked on it and sill need to do the hood, trunk lid and doors. As I said, the car is no longer able to stay where I have it parked in LA so it has to go. So if you’re interested in a project car that’s going to cost WAY more to repair than it’ll ever be worth, or looking for a parts car for your project, let me know. No REASONABLE offers will be rejected. I’d like to get everything out of there and not just part it out as I’m not in California to handle all the transactions. I hate to let this car go, I had a lot of plans for it but one way or another I couldn’t get it done. It was always a lack of funds or nowhere to work on it (the joys of living in apartments). Now I have a place to do it, but not the money and I’m out of time… FML…
  2. Any chance of putting out some pics / info on the body work to squeeze those 345's in there? I was thinking something in the range of 315's for my '73 but not sure how much will actually fit in there. Even adding tub's will only give about an inch or so of extra space due to the frame that's down there. Lemme know how you go about it...
  3. Hi. Yes, I still have the cars. Most are projects in boxes or hanging from chains from the ceiling at my shop, lol. I have tons of flat hoods but no good ram air hoods. No good fenders left to spare. I've gotten to where I just buy the repos. They fit well. I do have some conv rear 1/4 trim pieces. What color? Thanks. Kevin. While your digging through '73 interior parts, any chance you have the "A" pillars for Mach 1?
  4. Yup, I saw this, that's why I'm hitting the ospho a 2nd time, then the grease / wax again, then primer. I might even give another soap bath in there somewhere. But you see in the video how good it works IF it's done right. When you hit it the second time then wash it off do it on a warm day while metal is warm. Keeps the flash rust down. That's part of why I want to hit it with the grease/wax remover again after, it SHOULD knock off any flash rust before I prime it... Thanks for the heads up tho..
  5. Its ok if you do it right. I used both on my build taking Barry's(owner of SPI) suggestions. Here's a good vid that talks about it. SPI is a fantastic epoxy primer!! Yup, I saw this, that's why I'm hitting the ospho a 2nd time, then the grease / wax again, then primer. I might even give another soap bath in there somewhere. But you see in the video how good it works IF it's done right.
  6. I knew this question had do be asked in here somewhere and BEHOLD i have found it! The magic question of how much... I'm about to media blast my 73 Mach 1 sometime in the next couple of weeks (yes i'm doing it myself) and I want to get some primer on there as soon as I have the metal all prepped. My plan of action is to use SPI epoxy primer after the metal prep (soap wash, grease/wax remover, Ospho rust inhibitor, sit over night, Ospho again (to remove the dry Ospho), grease/wax, 80 grit sanding, damp cloth wipe down, primer). I'm thinking about first hitting it with red, then after the flash time passes get it with 2 coats of black. The main reason would be so I know where I'm at during the block sanding process so if i'm getting too close to bare metal I see red and know it's time to STOP! The black coats will highlight any imperfection in the metal (in theory) so I can see waves, high spots, dips blah blah blah before I get to the point of using a guide coat. And, I get to see what it looks like in red and black to help me with what color final paint will be... Anyway, back to the original question of how much of each would I need for the whole car? I'm guessing a quart of red (plus the catylist at 1:1 mix so 2 quarts sprayable) and a gallon of black (plus the catylist again so 2 gallons sprayable). Does that sound about right? I'm media blasting and hitting the epoxy BEFORE any metal work is done so I know there's going to be a bit of waste and re-primer in the mix. I plan on buying individual quarts as I go along at that point but as of now.. that's a ways off in the future. Anyway, I appreciate any insight and direction you guys want to give.
  7. I thought about getting the car dipped but that's about as far as I got with the idea, not even sure where I would go to do it and if it is cost effective,. I'm sure I'd have to ship the car pretty far to get it done though. Living in the wonderful state of California with all the chemical restrictions I'm sure it'll be fun and pricey too. As for tearing it down, Already done! The only thing left on the car is brake lines, the fuel line, paint and rust...I'll look into it though and see what I come up with. Thanks! Also, yours looks like it's coming along quite nice... it looks like you had a good starting place. I'm FINALLY posting the pics of my rack online... (tee hee)... It's not fancy or special but it works. Makes it real easy to move the car around, work on or under it and it's way more stable than it looks... when it's down... when it's up... from the back... rear construction bolted to rear leaf spring sub frame
  8. I was thinking about doing the same thing to mine but haven't figured out all the parts I need yet, still a long way away from playing with the engine. What i'm curious about tho is.... how much $$?
  9. A Craigslist ad might be worth while, just have to be really careful about who I'd go with. Leaving all my parts where who knows what can happen with them. I wouldn't mind looking into your shop if I wasn't on the opposite side of the county, somehow time to work on the car might be scarce like that. Thank for bringing it up though.
  10. You know, I never even thought about doing something like that. Thanks for the idea, I'll see what it would cost and weigh it out... That might be tough to find a shop willing to let you work on your car their shop due to liability - worth a shot though When you need to get your body panels hit me up - I can sell them to you and arrange will call at a warehouse about an hour from LA to save shipping costs you're right, I've called to smaller places and got the same story from both, due to insurance and liability they immediately dismissed any idea of renting out space. It's all good though, not having a roof isn't going to stop me from moving forward. Will do on the parts, If you have what i'm after and can save me the shipping, I'll definitely hit you up, thanks for the offer!
  11. Great info and thank you, I'll check out the one in Oregon and compare it to one that's in L.A. and see if it's worth while. With the amount of work I already know I have to get done I've been leaning towards stripping the car before i do any metal work. I know it's going to hurt to see just how bad things actually are but its better to find out early!
  12. I was wondering if a part's donor would be available in my area and BEHOLD!!! I'm building a Mach 1 but I'd be able to use quite a few parts off this IF i had the money to throw at it right now. Oh well, here it is if anybody is interested... http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/5962815746.html
  13. about the interior roof trim metal pieces around headliner. Are you talking about the actual roof supports that go under the the headliner? or would it be over the headliner??? Or between the headliner and roof? This part on top that's all bent up.. OHH!!! also, the trunk floor rear shock mount, it'll have to be cut off though. it's this part...
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