OzCoupe72

Haven't posted for a while but just saw this - great job and sure feels great when done! Yes those window trims sound crap. Even the OEM ones have to be careful not to chip the shiny new paint like I did doh! Should have mine back on the road this weekend after 6 months off road will be a good feeling.

Starting to come together and engine bay looking sharp Luckily mine had the rear indicators done in amber, not sure if lenses were custom cut or purchase somewhere? If you like I can have a closer look and see if any part number and/or brand on them. I just changed the wiring and bulb sockets to suit and the tail lamp sockets are easy to get from Ashdown Ingram or similar. Good luck with firing her up.

Welcome from Western Australia Nice looking vehicle especially the color! As Kilgon says best to use a good paint stripper then clean up with a sander but don't spend too much time with a coarse grit sandpaper in one area as not only will you create heat potentially warping the metal you will also remove some metal, use a slower speed also Will look great with fresh paint and stripes

Great that you have taken the decision to get her back up and running. As you say check all the simple stuff. Does it turn over easily? Bores could be rusted so maybe spray a bit of WD40 down the spark plug holes to help loosen it up a little. If it was running well before it was parked up so long ago then you shouldn't need to make any adjustments such as timing or carby. Be sure to check the wiring before you hook up a fresh battery, don't want to start a fire, check fuel lines for cracks and replace also. If it was me I would just go over it, new spark plugs, points if fitted some fresh fuel and give it shot, fire it up and blow out the cob webs. One thing you could have problems with though is the carby after sitting for so long can gum up a bit so wouldn't hurt to put a kit through it including float valve. If you're lucky enough to get it going easily and have given it a decent run you can assess the mechanical condition of the trans/diff/brakes/suspension etc and work out what needs to be done to your needs. Things that can deteriorate over time such as belts, hoses and old wiring need to be replaced or tidied up Of course you will want to make sure she hasn't any structural rust You might even be able to get the paint job looking good with cutting compound although reckon you will need a big tub of it for the passenger fender! In the end though it will be what you want out of it and also your budget/skill level A word of warning - once you get started and peel the layers back you will become addicted and contract the dreaded "while I'm at it" disease turning a small project into a major restoration. More satisfying when you can do most or all of the work yourself. Perhaps once you get it going post back on the condition of the rest of the vehicle particularly rust issues. Looks pretty decent in the photos but underneath will tell.

Good to see you back! Now you need to show us your progress/updates when back to it Maybe just some info on how the 73 is going?

Welcome from Australia

Welcome from Western Oz Nice ride and color What part of this island are you at?

Welcome from Australia Nice ride and enjoy the TCP products

I cut the blanks out and put in a grille, no problems and no overheating issues, just crank issues LOL Our XB falcons use an open scoop from factory, hood locks or not - see pic below Don't care if it helps or hinders, I just like the cooler air for the intake

Sounds like a reasonable outcome and your insurance was able to fudge the numbers once you gave them the necessary push So many people just take what they're given without question and insurance companies know this well Can understand your hesitation to repair if can't insure for an agreed value due to title Look at it this way at least you have a bunch of goodies for $5890 and $30K to get it going again or transplant to another one Hopefully you will find what's best in the end

Yes certainly for all the seams but I meant above the seams and a big enough bead to divert rain water away This would only be feasible if you have removed the top half of the cowl panel or at least a good part of it though

Either way you go about it I would run a bead of silicone around the hat area to prevent water pooling in the trough If you patch it I would use a POR15 or similar product on your remaining metal as from your photos it is pitted with rust I replaced my entire cowl with the repop item but still ran silicone beads to prevent water pooling

I used a repair kit from KBS Coatings and did a great job. Similar to POR15 fuel tank repair but much cheaper. Here is a link - https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/ You can buy this from formula.co.nz in Auckland

Sorry to hear of your problem. One which I have gone through before and currently now for the second time. As others have stated it is probably trans/converter related although don't rule out the engine yet Important that the trans is flush with the block before tightening bolts and you have at least 3/16 converter movement before tightening converter nuts Another thing with the converter binding is to check the converter snout where it enters the crank spigot, should be 0.10 clearance Some aftermarket cranks and/or converters can have a mismatch causing binding The other thing is although not likely is your new motor had a spigot bush installed for a manual trans but doubt you would even be able to bolt the trans up Would be a good idea to test your trans line pressure and make sure your cooler lines are not blocked or flowing freely Here's an article on this subject - https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/thrust-bearing-failure-prevention-analysis/ Keep us posted with your progress

Pity they can't repair it but at least you get it back with all the goodies along with $29K to put into the next one or repair this one As you say best just to let it sink in for a bit Hope it turns out for the best