Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Haven't posted for a while but just saw this - great job and sure feels great when done! Yes those window trims sound crap. Even the OEM ones have to be careful not to chip the shiny new paint like I did doh! Should have mine back on the road this weekend after 6 months off road will be a good feeling.
  2. Starting to come together and engine bay looking sharp Luckily mine had the rear indicators done in amber, not sure if lenses were custom cut or purchase somewhere? If you like I can have a closer look and see if any part number and/or brand on them. I just changed the wiring and bulb sockets to suit and the tail lamp sockets are easy to get from Ashdown Ingram or similar. Good luck with firing her up.
  3. Welcome from Western Australia Nice looking vehicle especially the color! As Kilgon says best to use a good paint stripper then clean up with a sander but don't spend too much time with a coarse grit sandpaper in one area as not only will you create heat potentially warping the metal you will also remove some metal, use a slower speed also Will look great with fresh paint and stripes
  4. Great that you have taken the decision to get her back up and running. As you say check all the simple stuff. Does it turn over easily? Bores could be rusted so maybe spray a bit of WD40 down the spark plug holes to help loosen it up a little. If it was running well before it was parked up so long ago then you shouldn't need to make any adjustments such as timing or carby. Be sure to check the wiring before you hook up a fresh battery, don't want to start a fire, check fuel lines for cracks and replace also. If it was me I would just go over it, new spark plugs, points if fitted some fresh fuel and give it shot, fire it up and blow out the cob webs. One thing you could have problems with though is the carby after sitting for so long can gum up a bit so wouldn't hurt to put a kit through it including float valve. If you're lucky enough to get it going easily and have given it a decent run you can assess the mechanical condition of the trans/diff/brakes/suspension etc and work out what needs to be done to your needs. Things that can deteriorate over time such as belts, hoses and old wiring need to be replaced or tidied up Of course you will want to make sure she hasn't any structural rust You might even be able to get the paint job looking good with cutting compound although reckon you will need a big tub of it for the passenger fender! In the end though it will be what you want out of it and also your budget/skill level A word of warning - once you get started and peel the layers back you will become addicted and contract the dreaded "while I'm at it" disease turning a small project into a major restoration. More satisfying when you can do most or all of the work yourself. Perhaps once you get it going post back on the condition of the rest of the vehicle particularly rust issues. Looks pretty decent in the photos but underneath will tell.
  5. Good to see you back! Now you need to show us your progress/updates when back to it Maybe just some info on how the 73 is going?
  6. Welcome from Western Oz Nice ride and color What part of this island are you at?
  7. Welcome from Australia Nice ride and enjoy the TCP products
  8. I cut the blanks out and put in a grille, no problems and no overheating issues, just crank issues LOL Our XB falcons use an open scoop from factory, hood locks or not - see pic below Don't care if it helps or hinders, I just like the cooler air for the intake
  9. Sounds like a reasonable outcome and your insurance was able to fudge the numbers once you gave them the necessary push So many people just take what they're given without question and insurance companies know this well Can understand your hesitation to repair if can't insure for an agreed value due to title Look at it this way at least you have a bunch of goodies for $5890 and $30K to get it going again or transplant to another one Hopefully you will find what's best in the end
  10. Yes certainly for all the seams but I meant above the seams and a big enough bead to divert rain water away This would only be feasible if you have removed the top half of the cowl panel or at least a good part of it though
  11. Either way you go about it I would run a bead of silicone around the hat area to prevent water pooling in the trough If you patch it I would use a POR15 or similar product on your remaining metal as from your photos it is pitted with rust I replaced my entire cowl with the repop item but still ran silicone beads to prevent water pooling
  12. I used a repair kit from KBS Coatings and did a great job. Similar to POR15 fuel tank repair but much cheaper. Here is a link - https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/ You can buy this from formula.co.nz in Auckland
  13. Sorry to hear of your problem. One which I have gone through before and currently now for the second time. As others have stated it is probably trans/converter related although don't rule out the engine yet Important that the trans is flush with the block before tightening bolts and you have at least 3/16 converter movement before tightening converter nuts Another thing with the converter binding is to check the converter snout where it enters the crank spigot, should be 0.10 clearance Some aftermarket cranks and/or converters can have a mismatch causing binding The other thing is although not likely is your new motor had a spigot bush installed for a manual trans but doubt you would even be able to bolt the trans up Would be a good idea to test your trans line pressure and make sure your cooler lines are not blocked or flowing freely Here's an article on this subject - https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/thrust-bearing-failure-prevention-analysis/ Keep us posted with your progress
  14. Pity they can't repair it but at least you get it back with all the goodies along with $29K to put into the next one or repair this one As you say best just to let it sink in for a bit Hope it turns out for the best
  15. c9zxOz, I have contacted a friend in Australia who has great knowledge and experience with these engines. Hopefully you will hear from him. If you do, carefully consider what he tells you. I know it sucks right now. I felt the same way when I had 8 Scat I beam rods go out of round on the Dyno and toast a new Boss 347 build. It took me almost a year to gather up the funds to "go again". Hang in there my friend. Chuck Thanks Chuck and yes it really sucks to have this happen a second time I will contact Jason shortly, appreciate the help Yesterday I performed a line pressure test on the C4 with perhaps some interesting results In forward gears at idle between 110-130 psi with very little change at stall even slightly lower Neutral and Park between 110-125 at idle dropping a little when engine revved Reverse was off the gauge but my gauge only reads to 140psi I'm concerned about the high pressures at idle so will consult with my trans builder
  16. G'day everyone I have been away for a while enjoying driving my 72 coupe even entered a few car shows with plenty of interest in the only 7173 in attendance As some of you may remember I had some issues with my stroker engine last year in which it prematurely retired due to thrust failure along with (perhaps?) tight bearing clearances contributing to a sudden loss of oil pressure Engine machinist couldn't find anything conclusive and just put it down to tight bearing clearances My memory not being the best I believe I had checked them against the tolerances listed in my performance rebuild book which at about .0010 to .0015 I can vaguely remember the flexi-gauge reading was about .0015 which would be fine for a stock engine but have since learnt a bit tight for a performance engine Kicked myself up the backside severely for this and decided to pay the experts to assemble the short block this time round - almost $5K for this one Last Sunday went for a run and started to notice an odd rubbing/rattling sound coming from the engine/trans area Oil & temp still good so took it easy and got it home to inspect Sound was coming from the bellhousing area so suspecting a loose/cracked flexplate I removed the inspection plate After looking for anything obvious I decided to lever on the flexplate and sure enough it moved about 3/16 inch so was hoping just a flexplate but after talking to my trans guy who knows the car well he said he wanted to look at it as it could be the engine thrust again and my first thought was no not again! Sure enough once on the hoist with one watching the balancer and one levering on the flexplate they both moved in unison - damn damn damn!!!! Now before anyone chimes in we previously explored the trans/convertor excess pressure on the crank causing thrust failure but didn't find anything conclusive but despite this replaced the converter and had the trans guy go over the transmission regardless Although the engine has been going well the last few months it has recently been using a tiny bit of oil with a couple of times at high rpm (limited 5900) there has been a little smoke and not just from the tires so my gut feeling was something wasn't right Naturally I'm devastated that once again I have to tear down the engine but first I need to conclusively eliminate the transmission side of things so will be doing a pressure test today, My trans guy who has worked on and driven this car several times has doubts the trans/converter is doing this because if the line pressure was excessive I should have extremely hard shifts which is certainly not the case I'm also going to check every other avenue including trans alignment and crank run out as the block was align honed The only other thing that could be causing premature thrust failure is it is just a bad crankshaft from the start Crank is a Scat 9000 series cast and these are supposed to be good to 600hp I have not found many negative reviews of this crank but who knows? Anyway a long way to go and can't afford to let this happen again so will be a long process to find the cause I will welcome any suggestions from members but reckon by now I have researched every possibility ten times over Can't afford to fix it straight away anyway, apparently there's some bug getting around and the missus has had to close her business down so no extra cash for the mustang unfortunately Reckon the crank is beyond repair this time so will probably go with a forged 4340 this time round. Also the block may be buggered as well but have a spare standard bore block so hopefully the pistons/rods are still good.
  17. So sorry to just see this post Kevin I haven't been on the forum for a while now and decided to check in just now with this the first post I read, not good As for what to do only you can decide and would be best to first negotiate with your insurance company and try to get it repaired which will save the title If it were me I would buy back the vehicle and fix it myself in a heartbeat for a couple of reasons, one being I'm not concerned about the title and just want my pride and joy back and two where I live I don't have a choice of replacement vehicles. Hopefully you can get a good outcome eventually and sounds like your estimator is willing to work with you unlike some of them Good luck and will watch your progress
  18. I used steam to remove mine and worked great Maybe a heat gun might work but reckon it's the steam that works best to soften the sealant I bought a cheap clothing steamer and it has many uses especially for removing old window tint
  19. G'day from Ozzieland It can certainly be a daunting task at first restoring any car but before you start tearing it apart take many photos for future reference Bag and tag all the bits and pieces as you go is also important Search this forum especially the projects area for ideas and post questions when needed You are pretty much on the right track with your plan by getting the bodywork done first including the engine bay Then you can do suspension, interior, wiring if needed, engine/trans etc Everyone will have many ways to restore a vehicle so just do what works for you One thing you will need before you start is plenty of patience, lots of cash and an understanding partner! Good luck with your project
  20. Those plugged ports would just be vacuum ports for the brake booster etc If you mean the temp sensor usual position is right front of block. You can place another temp sensor in the water pump if needed I have both gauge and idiot light so have used the extra port in the water pump Your OE harness should reach unless someone has cut it before?
  21. Merry Christmas to all and a happy new year ahead Christmas morning here and had a good start, took the kayak out and caught my limit of blue swimmer crabs Hope everyone has a good day feasting but spare some thoughts for those less fortunate that don't own a 7173 Mustang
  22. Bought most of her presents early, new rims, tires, springs & shocks but more than anything she would like a full tank of gas so I can take her for a nice long drive Bit like a faithful dog just wants to go walkies all the time! Pity there won't be any money left for the wife though
  23. Great job on fabricating a new bracket just annoying when you don't have the cable to try it out I see your customs dept has had your package since last Thursday and maybe they are trying to find a way to tax you for it Post always takes longer in the silly season but hopefully they will get it moving to you tomorrow
  24. Yep pretty damn warm over this side of the island too Although not quite 44C/111F When I painted my car it was 42C/107F and although I still oven baked it I could've just left it in the sun to cook Midlife is correct about our ladies and the hot weather means they have to wear less clothing to keep cool, not that I've noticed :whistling:
  • Create New...