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OzCoupe72

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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Welcome from Western Australia and good to see another coupe project
  2. The aftermarket brackets are way overpriced. I ended up using the stock bracket with a couple mods. And yes, you need spacer bushings since the distance between pulley and pump are different. In your Falcon, can you check which Saginaw pump part number is it? Do you have pictures of the bracket? Yes they are, will get some photos and post tonight. From memory most Saginaw pumps can be used but will need to change the pulley and the hose connections could be different. My pump is same as 6 cylinder Falcon from same era Kelpro part no KPP107. Bracket was earlier type with spacers. If it helps this bracket may work and is not expensive plus some Aussies put the F series Saginaw pumps on their falcon - https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Power-Steering-Pump-Bracket-V8/productinfo/12842/ - is for a Windsor so might not work?
  3. Amazing how some of us more senior enthusiasts get carried away with our projects putting most of our time, effort and of course forever disappearing cash into our beloved hobbies and forgetting the importance of our health. I too am going down this road and struggle at times to get under the car or work under the dash due to being overweight Wife has me on a diet and lost 12 pounds in a few weeks. Already starting to feel better for it but a little further to go yet. Sometimes we just need a reboot to get back on track. Now all I need to do is win the lottery Good luck with your repaint and certainly have much respect for those who do it themselves regardless of the outcome although yours is very inspiring
  4. Glad you were finally able to drive it again I'm sticking with a carby for now but might consider EFI further down the track Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983 From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009 A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up
  5. I do like the sinister black but it's your car so will be interesting to see how it looks in white. Are you doing the usual hood blackout or will you go for another colour or all white?
  6. Welcome from Australia and yes a sharp looking vehicle you have
  7. Interesting video of a review on a 1971 Mach1 429 for those who haven't seen it Also some interesting comments on this model
  8. From what I can find it should be a 1445 bulb which looks like the second one in your drawing but I could be wrong Here's one on Amazon for reference - https://www.amazon.com/GE-27207-Miniature-Automotive-Light/dp/B000CHKU92
  9. The converted tach uses the factory lighting. There is no change to the tach that will effect illumination. This is also true for the warning light and clock conversions. Whatever the Good Ford gave you is what you have. Thanks Bob for clearing that up. From memory I shined a torch down every bulb opening and apart from the warning lights nothing else shone through. I wondered which one is supposed to light up the tach? There are 3 unused socket openings that have blue covers. Perhaps the original clock was never lit up? Not having a working car makes it difficult to check. Anyway need to solve my circuit board problem first.
  10. Yes I have rotated the switch and pulled it all the way on. I have lights at the h/lamp switch, cig lighter, wiper switch and centre gauges when I do this.. I have power at the cluster connector and earth is good. I may have pushed the circuit card tang itself out of the way? As I don't want to have to remove the entire dash panel I will try to look at it closer with a mirror. I did rewire the connector up to original so doubt the terminal is in the wrong spot.
  11. When I had a look at the photo it didn't seem like a stupid question The pointer part is fairly obvious but the bit below doesn't look like anything I've seen on Ford V8s I've owned Looks like some sort of magnetic pick up perhaps? Maybe now I'm the one with a stupid question eh?
  12. I ran with the Scat 9000 series 4.00 inch stroke cast crank and no clearance problems except with the oil pan but the Kevko solved this. Only other issue you might have is when using the Scat forged crank is to make sure you use a spacer for the harmonic balancer Just use "stroker clearanced" rods and shouldn't be any problems but as always check then check again Would also recommend machining the block for the 351W one piece rear main seal If you go for the 3.85 inch stroke (393) you will have less clearance issues, good luck
  13. Wow that will be some tire burner! Better pray they don't jack up oil prices by the time you get it on the road.
  14. Regrettably I had already ordered the CJP circuit board before I knew about Midlife's hard wired setup and being in Australia shipping is expensive. After rewiring the vehicle for RHD everything is working so far except the instrument cluster lamps which I converted to LED (yes polarity is correct) I also got the RCC tach conversion and there doesn't seem to be any light provision for this although I think you need to remove some internal covers I have power/earth at the connector and have opened the tangs up a bit but still nothing so perhaps it is just a bad circuit board Anyway too late to change now as I have to remove entire dash to get the cluster out so will put up without instrument lights for now and will rarely drive at night Would definitely go for Midlife's conversion next time
  15. As usual great work you are doing and will look forward to how you tackle your hood. Oh and I completely understand the bugs in the paint. Even when mixing paint I have all sorts of bugs come from nowhere I will definitely be hiring a spray booth for the final paint!
  16. Congrats on finding a good hood. My flat hood has the usual rust on the inside and sounds like a huge salt shaker when you rock it. Putting up with a repro NASA hood and although straight having some gap issues not to mention the built in bow. I reckon at some stage I will try "cooking" my old hood to save it so will have a look at Fabrice's recipe.
  17. Welcome from Western Australia, great story and will look forward to some pics
  18. Welcome from Western Australia, nice car you have
  19. Sounds great and reminds me of my 460 Falcon many years ago. I remember driving it without exhaust for 10 miles to get the exhaust fitted and boy did it wake up a few sleepy travelers on their way to work! Revving a loud big block at 6000 rpm on the way to work brings back fond memories. Also like your paint job and particularly like the non-stripe/blackout look, very clean and gives me an idea of how mine should turn out although mine will have chrome bumpers and 23 less cubes!
  20. Thanks Hemikiller, drive shaft guy thought so but wasn't 100%
  21. Initially no real reason but when I started to look for a new project, being a Ford fan and kind of wanted a Mustang in the past, mine just happened to come up nearby and was affordable! Doubt an earlier model would have been within my meager budget plus I prefer to go for the underdog so a 72 Coupe it is. Must say I didn't know much at all about these models but have certainly grown to like them. Best part is I will probably be the only one in my town area with a 7173!
  22. Just a question, a long time ago I removed the yoke from my tailshaft and now I've come to get the shaft redone I can't remember which way it went! Mine was originally 302 C4 9 inch with 1310 uni joints both ends however there is an internal rubber damper at one end, my guess is it goes to the rear but just want to be sure. Thanks in advance, Mick
  23. That would be the air con compressor bracket, does it still have factory air con controls?
  24. Ouch! That hurts but hopefully the Lexus came off second best Lucky find with the OEM quarter panel though, well done
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