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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. + 1 on installing engine/trans together I tried to install with both headers on but had to remove one to get it in Lowering the front of the car and raising the back made it easier too Good luck with the install and hopefully you will post a video when running
  2. When I was looking for a replacement for my factory air system I ended up going with Old Auto Air Their kit has the Sanden type compressor which fits fine They also supplied the bits necessary to utilize my original A/C control Only down sides are you lose the fresh air vents but can live with this and some of the dash vent adapters were slightly wrong size Pretty compact evaporator housing and with mine being RHD had to modify the mounting plus it sits a little low to the floor but luckily the wife has short legs and little feet
  3. Also check your upper shock mounts aren't cracked, air shocks tend to crack them when jacked up
  4. Looking good and great work as usual I'd help with the bolt holes but it's been 30 years since I had a big block and my memory has somewhat deteriorated since then
  5. Welcome from Western Australia and congrats on finding a matching numbers car
  6. Decided this weekend it was time to get the engine and transmission installed so I can pass another milestone Tried to install it with trans and headers attached but ended up having to remove the right side header Luckily was able to refit the header getting it in from underneath Next problem was lining up the engine mounts as I used an aftermarket locally made mount and it looked like the solenoid on the mini starter was hitting the steering rack so wasn't looking forward to removing the header again just to remove the starter Once I adjusted the engine mounts and got the bolts in it was starting to line up with just enough clearance between the steering rack to starter plus the oil pan is pretty close Lastly had to lever the trans mount into place then slip the bolts in and looks all good for now Put the Holley 770 carby on with a 1 inch spacer but seriously doubt it will clear the hood so might have to go without the spacer, oh well can't have it all my way Anyway happy with the progress with some plumbing/wiring jobs ahead before I start the engine then back onto the panel work
  7. I ended up with 8.100 pushrods and used 2 methods to determine height, both spot on I have a custom Jones hydraulic roller and using his lifters so a bit of an unknown combo hence all the trouble with rocker studs
  8. Looking good and like me bet you can't wait to drive it Did you have any issues with the rocker stud length using Scorpion rockers? I ended up with a 2.100 stud and a .120 washer but perhaps my valve length was oversize
  9. Agree they are pretty good and their shipping charges aren't too shabby A set of guide plates was missing one and they sent a replacement, no questions so gotta be happy with that
  10. Welcome from down under Not sure what the problem is with the photo from my end of things? Oh hang on my laptop is around the wrong way! Doh
  11. This would be one a many threads about Grant steering wheel issues I too had a few dramas mainly with the steering wheel touching the contacts/wires on the turn signal switch and blowing the fuse Putting some electrical tape didn't completely solve it. I had to make a longer sleeve from a plumbing connector to move the steering wheel away from the contacts which mostly fixed it but if I move the wheel side to side with some force the turn signal starts to make contact! I bought the classic wheel as I liked the look of it and at 13 inches would give me some more leg room Perhaps I didn't have issues with the horn as I had wired the horn to switch via earth but also vaguely remember Grant had supplied some small foam pads to stick onto the contact plate, perhaps this could be your issue?
  12. Welcome from Western Australia and yes you are in the right place here
  13. Thanks for the feedback Still waiting on the window panel which is still in Sydney, my window panel and the panel below it are not rusted, just have a damaged panel and need to get the trunk gaps correct. I was pretty lucky withe the rockers, doors and fenders being 99% rust free Nearly all panel work done except window panel and need to mount the fenders then check the aftermarket hood for alignment but will wait until engine installed So far looks like the headers will clear the steering rack but had to modify the kickdown lever plus the dipstick tube
  14. Hi David Sorry to hear about your pain issues Like many others have shared I too have been suffering with sciatic nerve pain which made it difficult to work on the Mustang. Thought it was just my hip giving out so put up with it for 12 months however eventually went to the doctor who diagnosed sciatic nerve damage The good thing is I had bought a traction machine for my wife's sore back/sciatica pain a few years back and tried it on myself and after a couple of weeks was right as rain. Seems like I get one issue fixed and another comes along to take its place so now dealing with Plantar Fascitis (heel pain) and although quite painful I can still work on the car. I can highly recommend the traction machine which is actually a Perth company but they sell all over the world, USA website here - https://nubaxtraction.com/ Plus one on the CBD oil and would also recommend curcumin for inflammation Hope you at least get it under control, good luck
  15. With the winter weather here preventing me from doing panel work I have been busy rebuilding the engine and C4 transmission. Upgraded the C4 with better clutches, billet servo, deep pan and a hi-stall convertor. Would not have tried to do it myself without the excellent Badshoe Productions videos. Made a frame to mount the engine/trans which makes it easier to move around. Hopefully I will be installing it all soon and will attempt to install it with trans and headers attached. Still need to sort out the alternator mounting as standard brackets won't work with the Summit 100 amp unit. Looking forward to the day it is all running but still a long way to go.
  16. +1 on above post and the Felpro gasket I also don't use a torque wrench but just go by feel, gradually tightening and watching the gasket, if it starts to squeeze that is more than enough From memory the Felpro gasket is rubberized cork so less prone to splitting
  17. Good combo you have there and a plus one for the Kevko oil pan, ended up buying one myself after getting frustrated with the poor fit of another brand
  18. Great work as usual If I had your patience I would probably be only 20% done by now So far nearly 2 years into mine and hoping it will be on the road after xmas, about the time I should be getting sunburn!
  19. Welcome from Australia Don't forget the pictures
  20. Your pedal should have an inch or two of travel before it gets hard Check that you have adjusted the pushrod between booster and master cylinder correctly, if too long will get a hard pedal and brakes will come on too quickly, probably drag as well, too short and pedal will be close to the floor Been posted here before but basically need to get a clearance of about 20 thou between the master cylinder piston and booster pushrod, hope this helps
  21. I did a bit of research on the air gap and seems to be a good compromise between a single plane and normal dual plane Mine being similar build to yours would be interesting to see how it goes and I don't just go by dyno figures but prefer how it will behave overall on the street Just a note when fitting the Air Gap, I had to grind some material off the manifold where one of the old alignment dowels were also needed to grind some off to be able to get one of the thermostat housing bolts in, may not be an issue with yours but best to check all this before you bolt it on
  22. I put in a new card and still don't have dash lights despite power at the plug and a good earth The old card did not have the tabs glued in so didn't see the need to glue the new ones in I don't wish to remove the entire dash again so will probably have a go at running a jump wire to one of the illumination sockets I would strongly recommend getting Midlife to hard wire your cluster, that is if he will let you
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