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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Unfortunately i bought mine with the RHD conversion process 3/4 of the way done if that and not a very good job to boot. Still trying to sort out some of it and bloody frustrating when very little info out there on these regarding this Thought I was on top of it last week then had to remove the falcon booster to grind the push rod down to accommodate the mustang brake light switch Re bled the brakes but can't get a good pedal and the lengthened falcon pedal now hits the floor when bleeding, damn it! i recessed the floor pan to suit the shorter pedal so now i will have to recess the floor below it. Back to the drawing board again! Would have been a more difficult process the return it to LHD so will just persist with it
  2. Thought I should chime in being a dinky di Aussie from Australind Western Australia. I can certainly understand the issues we face especially as you mention George freight charges and dealing with local suppliers. Being on a budget and many years in auto parts I will always search for a better deal but being on the west coast on the back of a mining boom I rarely deal with local suppliers as they tend to pull your pants down on prices claiming high shipping costs which is only partly true as I can buy the same parts direct from the east coast or USA via air freight and still get a better deal. As an example I was looking for a cowl panel and the local supplier said he could get one from the USA via sea freight 2-3 months for about $1650 but I wanted it quicker so i looked online and ended up getting it from CJPony for $1450 and had it in 10 days. If I lived in the US I would deal with people like Don@OMS but unfortunately for us Aussies it's not the price of the part so much as the freight cost which kills the deal. Anyway I hope more Aussies chime in with their experiences Oh and another thing Dave mentioned blue in the engine bay (pics please), maybe an aussie thing to have color in the engine bay? Possibly as our local Falcons had color from the factory. Can understand people wanting originality but I prefer color. Cheers Mick
  3. Nice vehicle you have there and glad to hear you have an understanding wife. My wife likes my car so far but yet to have it going and not game to reveal the cost Be interesting to start a thread on how spouses have reacted to our vehicle purchases, have read some pretty amusing posts already
  4. Progress and setbacks seem to be the norm for me. That's what I get for buying an unfinished RHD conversion project, always a glutton for punishment. Steering rack to column shaft ended up being too long due to my positioning of the firewall and column and getting a shorter one made is taking forever. Good thing is my steering wheel height will be better than most RHD conversions but will have to get a new shaft and have had to lengthen the brake pedal. Below is some pics of latest work including getting the headlamp housings and bonnet lock supports blasted/painted/installed with new hardware Also ran into a problem when I went to install the Old Air evaporator unit. The PO had welded in the original A/C firewall hole a bit high so the unit hit the cowl. Pity I discovered this after I painted the engine bay. Had to cut out the hole section and weld in a new plate with a round hold and repaint the area. Also had to cut and shut the evaporator mounting bracket as it was designed for original LHD firewall. Pretty happy with the A/C unit otherwise and although it will hang a bit low I may actually have a full size glove box.
  5. Great job on the doors, haven't started mine yet but sure I will find some rust somewhere Interesting on your dustless blasting, my dustless blaster actually recommended against it mainly due to water getting into the nooks and crannies. Eventually went with glass bead blasting and epoxy primer straight after, worked well.
  6. G'day from Australia, nice car and hope to see more Polish members once you spread the word
  7. Welcome from Western Australia, nice MGB but would like to see your Mustang also
  8. Looking good and like what you've done with the engine stand. Be good to see what colour you go with. If my welding was as good as yours I would post photos before I clean them up, hopefully will improve
  9. Hi Ray, no just a standard coupe, the seats came with the vehicle when I bought it. They don't have the weave type inserts so assume have been recovered at some stage. I'm tossing up to dye them black or put in some modern black leather seats.
  10. Welcome from Western Australia, very sharp vehicle
  11. Might have overdone it with the grease? Usually only need a light smear especially on rubber components.
  12. Awesome. What type of steering system do you have? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk I have an Aussie made RRS power rack & pinion for RHD conversion. They make LHD as well. Will be a long time before I can report how well it works but the fitment was easy.
  13. Welcome from Western Australia, yes very blue and mine will be very red, at least you have most of the bodywork sorted which is a major effort although one thing that takes a lot of time is finding all the bits to put it back together.
  14. Finally got my brakes including hand brake operational, new braided hoses, made up all new pipes and vacuum bled it and after a few adjustments have a great pedal. Now just need to put the rest of the car together.
  15. Thanks Len, I used an AU 3 series handbrake lever which was a better fit. Had a new handbrake cable made up using bits of EL & AU. You are correct that my cable was a bit long so I had it shortened 30 mm to give more adjustment. Now I have all brakes working, bought new braided hoses and made new pipes, bled the brakes and have a great pedal but had to tighten up the pipes a bit to seat in the new flares as they leaked under pressure. Bought a vacuum bleeder which made bleeding a breeze just had to teflon tape the bleeders and cable tie the hoses but well worth it. Installed the steering column and mounted everything up but found the shaft between the steering column and rack is too long so will have to get another one made up. This is probably due to the way I've done the firewall and pedal box. Also have plenty of room between legs and steering wheel even with the standard one and seeing as I have bought a 13 inch Grant steering wheel will be more than enough. Only problem I can see with engineering is the brake pedal seems a little bit high, in other words when my size 11 foot is on the floor my toes barely touch the pedal, obviously with underlay and carpet this will be better so I hope it will be acceptable upon inspection. Oh and as you will see in the pics I ended up making a column to cowl bracket as the OEM one just wouldn't fit despite cutting it and trying to change it. Cheers Mick
  16. Thanks Vinnie, Yes I had to cut, bend and weld the handle base to make it lean towards the tunnel otherwise it would have rubbed on the seat. I also reinforced underneath the seat platform to strengthen the mounting. It doesn't get in the way of the seat tracks either.
  17. Been busy lately and starting to make some progress - pics below Rear axle is in with new Eaton Tru-Trac and 3.5 gears. Fitted new disc brakes and set up handbrake but will need to shorten the front cable slightly to get enough adjustment. Fuel tank was rusty inside from sitting around for a few years so refurbished it with KBS coatings fuel tank repair kit and painted the outside with bright zinc paint from the hardware store, added some rubber pads for the top of the tank and the mounting straps, new sender unit also. Trunk floor has been painted with a speckle finish paint which came up pretty good. For the main floor area I decided to make my own lizard skin using $80 worth of Insuladd ceramic spheres mixed with 4 litres of quick dry enamel which was only $20 as it was a mismatch which explains the color but who cares as nobody will see it. Couldn't justify spending over $800 for lizard skin so this will have to do plus I will add further insulation later. Tore down my Aussie 302C yesterday and the good news is it is standard bore so I have room to move with the rebuild which will end up being a 408 stroker. With the Aussie 2V heads at this stage will use dished pistons and the heads will get extensive port work with the chambers opened up also. Might consider alloy heads at a later stage but will get the block done first as don't have the funds to do it all at once. Anyways happy with the results and progress so far but there is still a long way to go.
  18. I didn't specifically look for any particular vehicle let a lone a Mustang when looking for a project but being a Ford fan in the past and not being able to afford one of our sought after vintage Falcons I came across my 72 Coupe and apart from liking the body shape it was affordable. After looking at many vehicles on this site I still prefer the coupe to the fastback. IMO the fastback does look fine especially with a decent set of boots on the back but I do find the rear of the car can look a bit too bulky especially with small wheels, a bit like our Falcon coupes.
  19. Welcome from Australia and glad to finally see some pics, nice!
  20. Thanks and from reading other posts i will definitely do the 1 piece seal. Chuck thanks for the advice and i was thinking that could be the case. As it turns out the crank/rods have already sold so I've purchased my second option - which was my original plan Bought the 9000 series cast crank which should be fine for my mild stroker - 4.000 stroke 6.000 inch rod For the rods they didn't have I-beams so I upgraded to H-beams part no 6600021SA Should be easier to find pistons for this setup but will be a while before i start this build just buying bits when they are on sale They had Probe dished pistons at a good price but only .040 and i'm not keen on boring a clevo block more than .030 Haven't even taken the heads off yet so hopefully my bores aren't too bad!
  21. Starting to look at engine options and have been considering a 408C stroker for a while now to wake up my slug Aussie 302C There are some kits available however there is a sale on at one of our major performance warehouses and they have a crank and rods on special I can't resist but not 100% they will do the job without requiring custom or special pistons, balancer, timing set etc. As an example 408 forged kit dished pistons $3300 AUD - crank/rods $1385 which leaves nearly $2K for pistons, rings & bearings The crank is a Scat 4340 standard weight forged 2.750 main journal 2.100 big end journal however the required rod length is 6.125 which is unusual. Scat part number is 4-351C-4000-6125 or 4351C48 which is no longer in their current catalogue. I found it in an old 2009 catalogue online and they are listed for 351W with 351C mains (use narrow bearings?) From what little info I can find many of the Scat stroker cranks are a hybrid of some sort and can be used between 351W & 351C providing you use the correct balancer and timing chain set which shouldn't be too hard to find. The con rods on sale are Scat part no 6612521QLSA which are ultra lite h-beam stroker rods (Chev type) which will suit the crank but my main worry is getting the right piston being as this crank must have been phased out. Anyways would appreciate if anyone has experience with these different set ups. I might even email Scat themselves to see what they can tell me but the sale ends soon so I need an answer soon.
  22. Welcome from Western Australia, Nice vehicle you have there and stands out amongst it's older cousins parked down the road! Spent a few minutes in Belgium (at the three land point) but drank quite bit of their great beer.
  23. Like the other guys mentioned learning to weld although scary at first is probably the most important skill to learn when restoring cars. I barely knew how to weld when I got my Mustang and after a lot of cursing, holes,crappy welds combined with many hours on the grinder I've improved a lot. Even the most experienced welders still burn holes and have a crappy weld occasionally. The pic of your cowl although it doesn't look flash in my opinion as long as it's water tight the only criticism is they didn't grind the weld down to make it presentable. They've obviously stitch welded it which is usually the only way with thin metal especially old metal. Hopefully you can find a reliable welder but I reckon the only reliable person when you want something done is yourself, just need to find the motivation.
  24. Great looking project and like the color scheme. Will be interesting to watch your progress and see how the finished product turns out. Keep up the good work.
  25. Didn't take any pictures when making them but pretty much the same as in the link supplied Will probably post some pics on them installed on my build thread when i get around to it Fairly easy to make as long as you have some welding skills i found it difficult when welding them into the vehicle as it was only a foot or so off the ground plus i'm not as flexible as I used to be Also be careful when welding to the thinner chassis, easy to blow a hole which I predictably did!
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