Jump to content

OzCoupe72

VIP Members
  • Posts

    650
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. I just rebuilt my hinges with Mustang Steve's kit - much stronger than original and you can grease the pins too Easy job to do if you can weld just remember to mark which way they go before disassembly Here is the link and there is a how to video on this forum also - http://www.mustangsteve.com/hinge.html
  2. G'day ITMike I was and still are in a similar situation when I bought my coupe If I knew what I know now I may have had second thoughts but don't have any regrets except the blowout in my budget by a few hundred percent! Luckily mine so far only has the usual rust in the cowl, floor, trunk drop offs and some small spots in the doors/quarters but seeing as I will be doing all the repairs myself the main cost is in time spent which I have plenty I considered a rotisserie but space was an issue plus the cost of steel is pretty high these days so I work on it out in the open as my shed is too small and is fulll of parts/tools etc Some good advice by the others and yes you should investigate how extensive the rust is and decide which way to go For my vehicle it will definitely cost more than the car is worth despite doing all the work myself but for me the experience i will gain plus the pleasure of driving the finished product will far outweigh the expense Only real problem I face is keeping the cost to do this from the missus! Good luck with your project and will look forward to your prognosis
  3. Hi Len Haven't checked this thread for a while been busy Yes I found out thanks to computercarguy and moved the bowl cover underneath I will post some photos of the rack hopefully in a few weeks as I have removed it getting ready to work on the engine bay Easy fit and just need to drill a few holes From what RRS tell me so far headers shouldn't be an issue but I'm a long way off from that Perhaps large diameter 4 into 1 headers might have an issue but nothing a hammer/welder couldn't fix!
  4. Welcome from Western Australia
  5. Well since I strained my back last weekend removing a bit of floor pan thought I should take it easy and organize the shed a bit as I can't swing a cat in there (sorry cat lovers) But I remembered I had purchased Mustang Steve's door hinge repair kit a while ago so went about rebuilding the door hinges For anyone considering these they are an excellent alternative to just replacing bushes, well worth the investment Also gave my spray guns a good clean and the built up gunk was surprising, used a product called CAM Universal Spray Gun Cleaner, good stuff which eats paint but very volatile so need to be careful and wear good nitrile gloves
  6. G'day PABlue I have some used side mouldings including wheel arch but unfortunately not a complete set and mine is a coupe I would have to fish them out of the shed to check which ones, condition and if original I also have some air con bits I won't be using although I will need the vents and control at this stage You can have them but need to pay postage Send me a PM if interested Cheers Mick
  7. Great info especially from Greg I use a DA sander to knock down larger flat areas and with a soft backing pad for curved areas but will always finish with hand sanding Purple scotch brite for the difficult areas One question though and perhaps need to make a new post but would like opinions on paint types i.e lacquer vs 2 Pack Many of us here can't afford to get their vehicle sprayed by a pro and don't have access to a spray booth Although I have spray painted some vehicles with 2 Pack in my driveway I always have to block it down afterwards due to dust or even insects getting in the clear coat especially I like the durability of the modern 2 pack urethane paints but for the backyard operator who doesn't have the luxury of a decent shed or spray booth plus the environmental/health issues sometimes acrylic lacquer is a better option I'm tempted to do my engine bay/door jambs with 2 pack and the exterior with lacquer Seen some great results with lacquer in the old days but concerned the quality of current lacquer paints is not as good as in the past
  8. Welcome to yet another Aussie and when I first saw Mexico I thought you might be from Victoria Interesting vehicle and will look forward to more info
  9. Welcome from Western Australia Will look forward to photos of your catch
  10. If you need any pics let me know Thanks will send PM later
  11. G'day Mark from West Oz Good to see more Aussies on board Great pics and nice color scheme Cheers Mick
  12. Welcome from Western Australia Nice coupe and hopefully mine will look that good when finished Mine being partly RHD when bought has some challenges Would be interested in knowing more about yours so look forward to more posts Cheers Mick
  13. No worries i will do this. Not sure if I would have checked all this and probably would have just got excited to get the upper cowl welded in. Luckily for me this forum has vigilant members who have been down this road and this is one less mistake i will make on this journey. Thanks again! By the way did you put in a new cowl non a/c into a/c vehicle? I think Dynacorn is releasing an a/c cowl soon but only differences I can see is one vent blocked on a/c type and if using factory air you will need to use brackets from your old cowl. I'll be using an Old Air air con kit hence blocking both vents.
  14. Thanks for the tip. I'm not sure if I will have problems yet but will check the wiper linkages before welding in the top cowl. The covers I made for the vents are the same size as the vents so don't see how they would get in the way? Perhaps you mean the pivot partially sits in the bowl? If this is the case then you are right and I will just remove the riveted cover I made and make a cover for the lower part of the bowl. Some people doing RHD conversions have radically altered the cowl by moving the wiper motor across to the right but from what I gather from others is they just modify or extend the right side wiper arm. I'll stick with the modified wiper arm. Regardless it won't be easy! Cheers Mick
  15. Been busy last couple of months replacing floors, redoing firewall sections and replacing cowl panel among other things. Finally got all the RHD stuff to line up including having to modify the original Mustang pedal box with a section of Aussie falcon box plus it was better to use the falcon pedal which matched the falcon booster for travel. Went for the RRS RHD power rack & pinion which is a bolt in fit (only had to drill some holes) which although expensive was far better than the unknown steering setup that came with the car and I'm no expert at steering geometry anyways. Anyway back to work and a few pics below. Mick images of high quality
  16. G'day from Western Australia, nice paint job and look forward to some tips
  17. Welcome from West Oz, great collection you have there, i'd build my collection but will have to get a bigger shed!
  18. Welcome from Western Australia, good job on the quarter panel, I have same model as yours but my quarters look okay so far as I've yet to remove the paint for hidden surprises yet to come!
  19. I'm in the same situation as you with only a shed to store tools/parts etc. My idea is to replace rusty panels and do most repairs then to media blast engine bay, door jambs etc. I just lightly etch prime repaired areas and welds. To keep the weather out I cover it with a weatherproof car cover. Will look forward to your build and yes would like to see your rack set up. I'm still considering a rotisserie but the steel is a bit expensive.
  20. Well done Mickus Will look forward to your report and some pics A lesson to everybody to extend your search parameters when on the hunt Pity the Jap car was not too flash
  21. My coupe has chrome wheel arch trims and body side trim. Had a look on my Marti report and only thing it could be is "appearance protection group" perhaps? Maybe look inside the doors or front of rear quarters for signs of holes being plugged up?
  22. Hi Mike, looks like that car moonlighted as a river cruiser Looks like you have a bigger job than I have on your hands Basically any areas of rust that are pitted or you can put a screwdriver through definitely replace, surface rust use a good rust encapsulator, i'm using Miracle Paint and Interguard 269 as an epoxy primer for bare metal No doubt the floors and cowl panel are rusted, check under the rear seats also I'm looking into dustless blasting myself and looks good but hopefully someone on the forum has used this method Just make sure they use a rust inhibitor Here's a short video - Will be interesting to get other opinions on this Cheers Mick
  23. G'day and welcome from Western Australia
  24. I have this book also and reckon it is pretty good compared to other books out there. Lots of info on the various options and performance tricks etc. Well worth it and for me cheaper to buy from the book depository than amazon or CJP.
  25. Thanks for the thread Pity I now have the bottom ones Looks like I will to make them fit now, damn it!
×
×
  • Create New...