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OzCoupe72

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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Finally I have the Red Peril street legal! :D Been a few months sorting out my engine debacle and getting it ready for all the engineering inspections etc etc Got my engineering approval a couple of weeks ago but still had to go through roadworthy inspections Had a few issues to sort out and finally today I picked up my license plates and went for a first "legal" run The sad part is like many with this "affliction" I have poured in countless dollars and sent myself broke in the process but frankly I don't care one bit although the missus is none too happy I reckon Anyway a few rough pics below and still a few bugs and rattles to sort out If I can find enough coins at the back of the sofa for fuel money I will go for a cruise this weekend to finish breaking in the engine
  2. Nice work you are doing and will be good to see how the "clean" look comes out I got luck with my doors and fenders as well although perhaps not as spot on as yours
  3. Well done and lucky you kept your skateboard! Can understand with your C6 it would be difficult to move around I have a C4 and can lift it myself when necessary Hopefully you have the Badshoe productions videos, if not here's a link - http://www.badshoeproductions.com/c6.html Certainly worth it being very informative
  4. Welcome from Western Australia Nice ride and I reckon the golden glow would look great although black is pretty decent also
  5. From what I can find the speedo cable should be the same for all auto trans 69-73 and 3 speed manual being 61", only toploader different Maybe just check the routing of your cable and if a clamp holding it somewhere just loosen it and move the cable forward
  6. Nah mate we worked out how to saddle up the kangaroos and the bonus was we could store a few beers in the pouch but you had to drink them quick before they got too warm! Oh and you can keep your breadfruit but the compass has come in handy thanks
  7. Your certainly making good progress and looking good so far I'm nearly on 3 years with my project and almost complete Was hoping for 2 years but things get in the way and go wrong sometimes
  8. Welcome from Western Australia Nice looking vehicle you have What part of this big island are you in?
  9. Welcome from Western Australia Seems to be a few new members from Brisvegas lately Feel a bit lonely all by myself in Australind (don't ask just Google it) A few members in Perth but that is 170km away Don't forget the pictures!
  10. Got a bit ahead of myself after a short drive last weekend Booked a day off work next Wednesday, both engineer and swept volume test booked once again Then decided I would get a permit and give it a decent test drive yesterday to make sure all is okay Once down the road I realized it was only getting 2 gears but with the new high stall converter and big torque engine wasn't easy to tell if in 2nd or 3rd so manually shifted to 2nd and nothing - no drive WTF! As I was on my way to my trans builder who put it together this time I let him drive it and he concluded it is probably a sticky 1-2 valve in the valve body They are going to put together another valve body/shift kit but unable to do the job for a week or so Now I'm going to have to postpone once again getting this thing on the road but luckily not too serious of a problem Kind of getting used to disappointment by now, doesn't make it any easier but Decided to do some odd jobs on the vehicle and one thing that has annoyed me was the sill plate screws not holding despite putting larger screws in Seeing as I purchased a rivet nut kit a while ago I bought some countersunk screws and inserted rivet nuts Worked well and no more loose screws
  11. Thanks guys but I won't be cracking the champagne just yet Was good to get to drive it though and will try to get some more miles on it this time
  12. Ended up boring the block to .030 so didn't need to sleeve number 4 cylinder Engine and trans in last weekend and this weekend fitted all the bits and pieces ready for first (or second) start up Wasn't happy with the torque convertor gap so made some .080 spacers including for the starter to move the trans back a little I static timed it to about 20 degrees then turned it over but although it wanted to fire it didn't fire up plus there was a tapping noise which was a worry The noise was two things. one was I had put the torque converter inspection plate the other way around and one of the studs on the Hughes convertor was slightly longer just hitting the plate, the other noise was a top end noise so thinking I had not adjusted the rockers properly I redid the valve clearances but they were pretty good I remembered when I first fired it up it needed to be advanced more so I gradually advanced it until it started to fire and eventually it ran but still had a lifter noise but this went away after a few minutes Anyway glad I got it going again, took it for a spin around the block and with the new high stall converter it seems to be even more responsive even with the rear wheels getting a bit loose stabbing the throttle in second gear Fingers crossed for the next few hundred miles
  13. I ended up using XB Falcon mirrors I still have the Mustang housings without mirror glass if you need spare ones PM me
  14. They look like the Mustang ones which is unusual as they usually use all Falcon steering from what I know Outers are the same as Mustang from memory Here's a link with the Mustang inner photo - https://www.cjponyparts.com/inner-tie-rod-end-1971-1973/p/DS791/
  15. Looking good so far Looks like they use Falcon steering, booster etc Did they use any spacer to bring the idler arm in? Interested to know as mine started with Falcon steering but the geometry was out of whack so went with the RRS power rack Apparently the idler arm needs to be spaced about 7/8" inwards Be interesting to hear how it drives once on the road especially for bump steer
  16. Thanks for the tip and I also thought of just cutting up another sandwich plate but both the wait and expense aren't worth it Fortunately at my work we have some .080 plate and a plasma cutter so I will make a template from my spare cylinder block tonight
  17. Spoke to my transmission builder today regarding the gap and he reckons .060" will be okay Reckons it would only be a problem on a high HP boosted engine or some GM applications needing 1/8" Regardless I'm not taking any chances and will shim the transmission back .080 giving me slightly over 1/8" gap Seems that with nearly everything aftermarket there will be clearance issues and I suspect the flexplate
  18. Welcome from the other side of the island Nice original vert you have
  19. Good luck with your project and like others will be glad to help Remember to take photos, bag & tag everything and try not to get into the "while I'm at it" trap, your wallet will be empty quick smart! For parts diagrams and shop manuals can recommend www.forelpublishing.com for downloadable manuals but need to pay
  20. Great job on the barber's pole! Lucky you won't see it when driving as it could make you dizzy Great when you get good weather for painting and I much prefer to dry components in the sun Raining heavily here and too wet to get under the car so not doing much
  21. Have read that one among many others and some say 1/16 to 3/16 One builder reckons he has done dozens of hi-po engines with only about 0.020 gap without problems I still won't be taking any chances so will go the spacer route
  22. I have a Hughes Pro Street 3000 stall with Aeroflow flexplate and OEM sandwich plate Hughes say 1/8 to 3/16 so to be safe I will make a spacer to match the block pattern which will bring the trans back another 1/16 or more Some people have use a second sandwich plate but I don't want to remove the trans again so will just slide a spacer into the gap and cut the dowel holes at half moon Will probably have to make a spacer for the starter as it will move closer to the ring gear Not taking any chances this time
  23. Just getting the engine and trans together and in light of my previous problems with clearances I'm concerned my torque convertor gap is too tight Installed torque converter onto trans correctly with 3 clicks to engage everything Installed trans to engine then tightened bell housing bolts Upon checking torque converter gap it looked too small, difficult to get feeler gauges in there so measure how much the stud pulled forward with the vernier calipers and it was .060". The convertor could have moved forward perhaps but the fact that it does have a gap and is not binding doesn't indicate this Some say 1/8(.125) to 3/16 but others say .060"(1/16) - .187 thou so I'm concerned my gap could be too tight Interested if anyone else has come across a tight gap and what is really acceptable I read one thread on another forum where they tried 4 or 5 C4 flexplates until they got an acceptable gap so guessing the offset on my aftermarket flexplate could be wrong? Have installed the engine/trans anyway but won't be starting it up until confident there won't be any issues and I really don't feel like pulling it all apart again!
  24. Looks fantastic, well done I had idle/vacuum problems also. Changed the carby spacer which helped but the main issue was with the new Holley I needed to open the secondary transition slots a little Need to remove the carby and adjust a small screw under the base, problem fixed however don't over adjust it.
  25. Great find and good to see another coupe I would love another Mustang and a garage to put it in but need to finish my current one first then win the lottery!
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