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OzCoupe72

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Posts posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Finally I have the Red Peril street legal! :D

     

    Been a few months sorting out my engine debacle and getting it ready for all the engineering inspections etc etc

    Got my engineering approval a couple of weeks ago but still had to go through roadworthy inspections

    Had a few issues to sort out and finally today I picked up my license plates and went for a first "legal" run

     

    The sad part is like many with this "affliction" I have poured in countless dollars and sent myself broke in the process but frankly I don't care one bit although the missus is none too happy I reckon

    Anyway a few rough pics below and still a few bugs and rattles to sort out

    If I can find enough coins at the back of the sofa for fuel money I will go for a cruise this weekend to finish breaking in the engine

    P1030206.thumb.jpg.f113dd676ad3c5ca3b1415986d3e768e.jpg

    P1030209.thumb.jpg.5ac24fc7eb0f911e77cff1071d9da097.jpg

    P1030211.thumb.jpg.849982a787095cd6c3bdef4e5dc1f8aa.jpg

  2. I'm old and slow too ... I had no idea they had cars in Aus (Oz) ... we left em behind with nothing but breadfruit and a compass  :whistling:

     

    :P

    Nah mate we worked out how to saddle up the kangaroos and the bonus was we could store a few beers in the pouch but you had to drink them quick before they got too warm!

    Oh and you can keep your breadfruit but the compass has come in handy thanks

  3. Got a bit ahead of myself after a short drive last weekend

    Booked a day off work next Wednesday, both engineer and swept volume test booked once again

     

    Then decided I would get a permit and give it a decent test drive yesterday to make sure all is okay

    Once down the road I realized it was only getting 2 gears but with the new high stall converter and big torque engine wasn't easy to tell if in 2nd or 3rd so manually shifted to 2nd and nothing - no drive WTF!

     

    As I was on my way to my trans builder who put it together this time I let him drive it and he concluded it is probably a sticky 1-2 valve in the valve body

    They are going to put together another valve body/shift kit but unable to do the job for a week or so

    Now I'm going to have to postpone once again getting this thing on the road but luckily not too serious of a problem

    Kind of getting used to disappointment by now, doesn't make it any easier but

     

    Decided to do some odd jobs on the vehicle and one thing that has annoyed me was the sill plate screws not holding despite putting larger screws in

    Seeing as I purchased a rivet nut kit a while ago I bought some countersunk screws and inserted rivet nuts

    Worked well and no more loose screws

     

    P1030199.thumb.jpg.52bbcbcd2bb04b27ebf501dff6bb06f1.jpg

  4. Ended up boring the block to .030 so didn't need to sleeve number 4 cylinder

     

    Engine and trans in last weekend and this weekend fitted all the bits and pieces ready for first (or second) start up

     

    Wasn't happy with the torque convertor gap so made some .080 spacers including for the starter to move the trans back a little

     

    I static timed it to about 20 degrees then turned it over but although it wanted to fire it didn't fire up plus there was a tapping noise which was a worry

     

    The noise was two things. one was I had put the torque converter inspection plate the other way around and one of the studs on the Hughes convertor was slightly longer just hitting the plate, the other noise was a top end noise so thinking I had not adjusted the rockers properly I redid the valve clearances but they were pretty good

    I remembered when I first fired it up it needed to be advanced more so I gradually advanced it until it started to fire and eventually it ran but still had a lifter noise but this went away after a few minutes

     

    Anyway glad I got it going again, took it for a spin around the block and with the new high stall converter it seems to be even more responsive even with the rear wheels getting a bit loose stabbing the throttle in second gear

     

    Fingers crossed for the next few hundred miles

  5. Converted the LH mirror to manual adjustment, same as the RHS. Not much use having a remote control on the passenger side. I used the mirror and mount from another RH unit and made up a bracket to suit.

     

    20190905-111028.jpg

    I ended up using XB Falcon mirrors

    I still have the Mustang housings without mirror glass if you need spare ones PM me

  6. Looking good so far

    Looks like they use Falcon steering, booster etc

    Did they use any spacer to bring the idler arm in? Interested to know as mine started with Falcon steering but the geometry was out of whack so went with the RRS power rack

    Apparently the idler arm needs to be spaced about 7/8" inwards

    Be interesting to hear how it drives once on the road especially for bump steer

  7. Not that I think it's needed, but you can save yourself a bunch of work by using a Comp Engineering mid mount plate, which is from .090" steel and trim off what you don't need.

     

    https://summitracing.com/parts/cee-4035/overview/make/ford

    Thanks for the tip and I also thought of just cutting up another sandwich plate but both the wait and expense aren't worth it

    Fortunately at my work we have some .080 plate and a plasma cutter so I will make a template from my spare cylinder block tonight

  8. Spoke to my transmission builder today regarding the gap and he reckons .060" will be okay

    Reckons it would only be a problem on a high HP boosted engine or some GM applications needing 1/8"

    Regardless I'm not taking any chances and will shim the transmission back .080 giving me slightly over 1/8" gap

    Seems that with nearly everything aftermarket there will be clearance issues and I suspect the flexplate

  9. Good luck with your project and like others will be glad to help

    Remember to take photos, bag & tag everything and try not to get into the "while I'm at it" trap, your wallet will be empty quick smart!

    For parts diagrams and shop manuals can recommend www.forelpublishing.com for downloadable manuals but need to pay

  10. What kind of torque converter do you have?  Also, how thick is your spacer plate between the engine block and bell housing?

     

    If it is a stock converter .060” is probably too tight.

     

    If you have a performance converter that is beefier and less prone to “ballooning” .060 might be okay.  I’d make contact with whomever you bought the converter from and ask them what they think.

    I have a Hughes Pro Street 3000 stall with Aeroflow flexplate and OEM sandwich plate

    Hughes say 1/8 to 3/16 so to be safe I will make a spacer to match the block pattern which will bring the trans back another 1/16 or more

     

    Some people have use a second sandwich plate but I don't want to remove the trans again so will just slide a spacer into the gap and cut the dowel holes at half moon

    Will probably have to make a spacer for the starter as it will move closer to the ring gear

     

    Not taking any chances this time

  11. Just getting the engine and trans together and in light of my previous problems with clearances I'm concerned my torque convertor gap is too tight

     

    Installed torque converter onto trans correctly with 3 clicks to engage everything

    Installed trans to engine then tightened bell housing bolts

     

    Upon checking torque converter gap it looked too small, difficult to get feeler gauges in there so measure how much the stud pulled forward with the vernier calipers and it was .060". The convertor could have moved forward perhaps but the fact that it does have a gap and is not binding doesn't indicate this

    Some say 1/8(.125) to 3/16 but others say .060"(1/16) - .187 thou so I'm concerned my gap could be too tight

    Interested if anyone else has come across a tight gap and what is really acceptable

    I read one thread on another forum where they tried 4 or 5 C4 flexplates until they got an acceptable gap so guessing the offset on my aftermarket flexplate could be wrong?

     

    Have installed the engine/trans anyway but won't be starting it up until confident there won't be any issues and I really don't feel like pulling it all apart again!

  12. Looks fantastic, well done

     

    I had idle/vacuum problems also.

    Changed the carby spacer which helped but the main issue was with the new Holley I needed to open the secondary transition slots a little

    Need to remove the carby and adjust a small screw under the base, problem fixed however don't over adjust it.

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