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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. As others have said just build it to what you want My vehicle is Bright Red and in some photos looks "orange" so yours could be close
  2. Welcome from Western Australia Low mileage classics getting harder to find so well done and please post more pics!
  3. Congratulations! Always god to get some recognition Although no drag strip close to my home I would be happy to just make it to the end of the line without requiring a tow truck! Have you done any racing with slicks?
  4. Thanks guys, great to have your input and will take it on board once I get my engine back I have raised it with the machinist several times to go to the larger end of the clearances and he seems to think .0020 - .0025 is fine I will double check it with plasti-gauge though He reckons the thrust(end play) will be about .007 - .009 which I'm okay with Unfortunately I don't have expensive micrometers or bore gauges so just had to go with plasti-gauge, dial gauge and feeler gauges Was pretty anal with being clean and everything turned over smoothly The only thing we can point to is the clearances and unfortunately my memory doesn't serve me well as to how I determined what the clearance was I don't doubt that I blew it in this regard but I do doubt that a tight bearing clearance would result in a sudden loss of oil pressure It's been a long anxious wait and I just want to get my vehicle back on the road again
  5. As the crank was brand new there was no need to grind it The mains tunnels were align honed, block zero decked, fully balanced, new rods etc. Machinist supplied pistons, rings, bearings etc Not sure exactly what the machinist measured but as I wanted to assemble the block myself I just used plasti-gauge to check it and unfortunately I must have used the OEM clearances. If I had of gone with "performance" clearances then it would have been just a matter of purchasing ACL H series bearings which I think are .001 oversized then mix and match until acceptable clearances achieved All good in hindsight to speculate, and boy oh boy have I done that, but the fact remains is I failed to get the right clearances from the start The blocked was thoroughly cleaned including using rifle brushes to clean the oil galleries, flushed several times and blown out with compressed air I can only hope it was just tight clearances that caused this but having no proof leaves me wondering, fingers will be crossed!
  6. I wish I had all the answers, believe me I do! Spike - the machinist probably removed the centre main cap first and assumed the worn thrust was the main issue however after further investigation both mains and rod bearings were prematurely worn so his diagnosis moved from a thrust failure to bearing failure due to tight tolerances which lead to a cylinder(no 4) failure with minor scuffing on the other cylinders, obviously due to lack of oil pressure When I assembled the engine the thrust clearance was the first thing I checked and it was certainly within specifications as were the bearings The question is what specifications did I use? After many nights with little sleep trying to get my failing memory to work I realised I may have got my clearances from a book by George Reid called - 351 Clevelands How To Build For Max Performance so I had a look and there is a whole page with most clearances/torque specs Upon looking at the recommended bearing clearances it had approx .0009 - .0015 which I now know is not for performance builds but OEM stock specs I had a vague memory of how wide the plasti-gauge was and sure enough it was about .0015 or possibly less The thrust clearance would have been within OEM specs but shouldn't be an issue however if I did have my rod/main bearing clearances at OEM specs then this could cause a problem with a performance build IA Rider - it was a brand new Scat crank and was checked by the machinist, journals looked perfect to my untrained eye Anyway I've gone with boring it to .030 over, new set of SRP pistons (ouch!!) and the crank is being ground to suit new bearings with clearances at .002 rods .0025 mains Hopefully have the block back by the end of the week and on the road following week but it will be a nervous first few hundred miles Oh and lucky I got my C4 trans checked out, nothing wrong with how I put it together but the front band and a few clutch plates show some feathering which is probably due to old(new) parts getting moisture in them. This could have caused some issues so getting them replaced
  7. Sounds like flooding and due to the fact it has been sitting around for a while the needle & seats are probably sticky Perhaps just replace them and readjust your float levels What carby is on it? Maybe others can give some tuning tips?
  8. Hard to see in the pics and not sure what effect mixing the flexplate between C4/C6 will do to affect the starter Here's a couple of links that might help https://www.hotrod.com/articles/pit-stop-wrong-flexplate-causes-main-thrust-bearing-failure-302-ford/75-ford-flexplate-offset-c4-vs-c6-jpg/ https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/all-ford-techboard/496214-c4-c6-swap.html
  9. Most commonly when power steering grabs at idle it is your belt is a little loose Tighten the belt so you get no more than 1/2 inch deflection in the middle of the longest part of the belt with firm thumb pressure and see if it improves
  10. Usually only have to use a spacer shim for manual cars I would be checking what flex plate you have first From memory if you fitted a 157T to a larger(164T) bell housing your starter probably shouldn't engage at all so maybe not that Make sure it is a C6 flex plate as they have a different offset to C4 C4/FMX flex plate the convertor mount point is flush with the engine side of the ring gear and C6 is flush with the trans side Whether any of this affects your starter not sure, good luck
  11. You're turning out some great work and becoming quite a good panel beater Sometimes will need to apply heat and cold to shrink some high spots especially when you get that annoying "tin can" effect I have a shrinking disc I put on the sander, it is more subtle than using flame, takes a little getting used to but certainly worth it Like me you will do everything to avoid buying a new fender and paying huge shipping costs, not to mention having to rework the repop panel
  12. Congratulations on reaching this milestone, something I wish for It's usually a process of sorting out the bugs and other issues after a rebuild or restoration I managed about 10 miles and the power steering hose blew, destroying the pump Next time got to 70 miles and the engine failed Good luck with your Mustang and hopefully you reach many more milestones
  13. I bought the CJP set although not sure if they had different brands back a couple of years ago Works fine so far but I would go with OMS next time
  14. Bloody hilarious Midlife, at least she had the steering wheel on the "right" side! Maybe she needs to watch this video - 1sosatic - I have had a similar experience A young a-hole in his shitbox Toyota Hi-Lux that wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding decided he would show me why his wedding tackle is inadequate by passing a Mustang into oncoming traffic at over 60mph. Luckily I was watching this "Darwin Award" candidate tailgating me, once I saw him move I immediately slowed down and moved across to the left, the oncoming traffic also did the same and the oxygen thief survived another day. In the short time I've had the pleasure of driving my Mustang it certainly gets plenty of attention, unfortunately not always good as above But it is all worthwhile when you get positive comments such as the kids down the road and their mum waving me to come over and ask what is that "gangster" car
  15. I'm hoping the machinist has already checked this I could not see any cracks and pick up was tight with correct alignment/clearance I'm certainly no expert but would expect if clearances were the sole cause it would have been a more gradual progression with some contamination in the oil especially after the dyno session but this was a sudden drop in oil pressure
  16. I also agree it may not be the bearing clearances that caused this but this is all the machinist can come up with so far He reckons number 4 cylinder/piston (wasn't seized just badly scuffed all the way around) was due to the lack of oil pressure Cam bearings not bad but will be replaced I will get all the old parts back and post some pics in a few weeks We've pretty much eliminated 95% of all possible causes so far but will be persistent in getting an answer I can only hope he finds something conclusive and I don't have to pre-book the tow truck next time!
  17. The "window" is probably spring loaded but never having taken one apart could not advise on this If it was me and it didn't free up with some lubrication I would probably replace it To lube the cylinder best to use powdered graphite, just put the nozzle in and squeeze a puff of it in, some on the key can help, push it in a few times Yes there is a gasket between the door and cylinder and would use this, if no gasket water will get in I bought a complete matching lock set but you could also get a locksmith to re-key it for you and they may even be able to fix the cylinder but I suspect they could charge more than it is worth
  18. Don - I drained the oil before removing the engine, dipstick was on the full mark and about 6 litres came out with a little remaining in the pan and filter Oil was contaminated no doubt mostly due to number 4 cylinder and there was a small amount of oil in this cylinder I suppose if the clearances were too tight it would cause the bearings to overheat and since this was the first drive over 10 miles distance they finally gave up with the loss in oil pressure scouring the cylinders Unfortunately there is no way to confirm what exact clearances were on the bearings as they are all shot This is a mistake on my behalf and although I've had success in the past with plasti-gauge I won't be using it again except perhaps to check how accurate it is once I get my short block back Hopefully will have it back on the road in a month or so and it will be a nerve wracking experience driving it for a while without a 100% conclusive diagnosis
  19. If you don't find one I have the rear ashtray but from the smaller or standard console Not sure if the same but will dig it out and check its condition
  20. Still nothing conclusive and machinist still holding to the clearances theory and maybe he's right? Chuck - you're right it is a difficult one and even the machinist is not overly confident but will be checking everything Both mains including thrusts and the rod bearings failed which to me is oil starvation and perhaps if the clearances were a little tight that would certainly have contributed to the bearings early demise One thing that gives a hint of oil starvation is the oil filter when removed had very little oil in it TommyK - No oil mods, not necessary for a mild build and standard volume Mellings pump 85 psi cold, 75 psi at revs and 45 psi hot idle Jay - Oil pickup to pan clearance was spot on - can't remember but maybe 3/8 inch and machinist did also check this Anyway I have 2 choices to fix this One was to sleeve no 4 cylinder, new piston, grind crank, new bearings, rings etc Second option was to put all new pistons boring it to .030 which would not need a sleeve but this option would cost about $500 more and I would rather keep my block at .020 o/s to leave room for future rebuilds so will go with the first option Only issue is will have to wait a couple of weeks for a piston from the USA I only wish my memory was good enough to remember the exact clearances I came up with, next time I will record everything!
  21. Hi David Cam/lifters looked fine but yet to remove cam, machinist will do this Pistons were clearanced by the machine shop and he is certainly aware of the need for extra clearance for forged pistons Ring gaps were filed to spec although I did file a little too much off a couple of compression rings but this wouldn't cause any issue Machinist reckons piston/cylinder wear due to oil starvation Pistons perfectly centred, crank end float spot on and rod side clearances spot on Not sure on mains, ACL Race series I think 1/2 grooved? Machinist reckons cam all good but hasn't reported on cam bearings yet, lifter bores look good but will double check this and front cam bearing I have assembled half a dozen Ford V8s always checking bearing clearances with plasti-gauge and never had an issue Plasti-gauge while not very accurate will still show a pattern and from memory there was nothing out of the ordinary Unfortunately with age my memory not so good and don't remember exact clearances but would expect with all new components they would have been slightly on the tight side. Everything rotated freely I have my doubts that a slightly tighter clearance would have caused a sudden failure but I could be wrong Perhaps it's the chicken or the egg question - did the oil pressure drop first causing the damage or the other way around? Thanks for your input, will post more info if/when it comes to light and hopefully get a better night's sleep! Carolina_Mountain_MustangsWhat does the cam and lifters look like? Did you use zinc additive in your oil? When I worked in race shop you opened up the clearances for couple reasons. The flow of oil cooled the bearings for car that run on track for 500 mile races. The other was pure friction reduction. What we saw with too much oil pressure was that the bearings eroded looked just like when water washes out a section of soil. Most people are not looking at engines that are ran at max for 500 miles and do not see this. A 1/4 mile engine will probably never make it 500 miles. We ran pumps with higher volume not necessarily high pressure. We never ground the cranks to the factory numbers. We would get the new bearings and install them and mike the inside diameter of the bearing. The boss would then tell the crank grinder what diameter to grind each journal. They would vary sometime .001" from the spec. number but usually a few tenths of a thousand of an inch. I would double check the clearance given for the pistons and check with the mfg. for the proper clearance. Some forged pistons need extra clearance due to expansion being more than a cast piston. Did you grind your ring end gaps or just put the rings on and slap the pistons in? Rings might have been butting ends and caused scuffing of the walls. I think one of the members had an issue with the journals on his new crankshaft not being aligned with the bores of the cylinders. Do you have pics of the bottom of the engine when you assembled the first time? When he bolted the rods to the crank the small end of the rod was not centered with piston. Also check the clearance on the lifters. Being a wet lifter galley if there is excess clearance there all the oil leaks out around the lifters starving the bearings. The position of the front cam bearing is also important. Did your main bearings have oil grove all the way around or 1/2 way. My old boss preferred the 1/2 way around. For sure you do not want to go back together with the engine and do the same way as last time. Will probably get the same results. I am suspect of end gap on rings being cylinder issue then the resulting crap gets into the oil and causes other issues. Or piston clearance issue.
  22. G'day Chuck Sorry no pictures yet as block etc at the machine shop 50 miles away Story in short I was driving along the highway 50-60 MPH all going well and constantly checking the gauges Heard a noise like loose tappets then looked at the gauges, oil pressure 40 and slowly dropping Had to drive a couple of miles, very slowly, to find a parking bay and shut down, checked for leaks, none, checked oil, clean as a whistle and full, so clean I had trouble seeing the oil on the dipstick. Checked it several times, same. Got vehicle home and perhaps from getting on/off the tilt tray the oil had mixed so it was now a dark color on the dipstick What I'm having trouble comprehending is that if the bearing clearances were too tight there should have been some wear from the beginning and there would have been some discoloration in the oil much earlier on especially after the dyno testing Ring gaps were set at where they should be but don't quite remember exact measurement, I did file a little too much off a couple but that wouldn't cause any problems In my opinion it is more likely an oil starvation issue considering all bearings including thrust surfaces are worn, number 4 cylinder badly scuffed perhaps as one of the last to receive oil Machinist is yet to examine the oil pump, galleries and camshaft so will have to lose some more sleep waiting Luckily the crank can be saved and the block will only need one sleeve at this stage Hopefully I have more news in a week or so
  23. Still waiting on my engine's final autopsy and getting different stories/theories every week In short I rapidly dropped oil pressure on a fresh 406C stroker resulting in engine noise and a $400 towing bill Decided to send it to my machinist a couple of long weeks ago and his initial diagnosis after removing a couple of bearing caps was the thrust bearing was wiped out due to the crankshaft being pushed forwards This led to "a" conclusion it must be my transmission having excessive charge pressure or a misalignment issue which is certainly a possibility but the fact there were no witness marks on the flexplate or convertor I was not convinced Having excessive pressure in the trans would also cause excessively harsh shifts which was certainly not the case at all Regardless I took the trans to a local shop and he can't see any evidence of this so far Get another call from my machinist to say they have removed the crank/pistons etc and after measuring the wear on the thrust, end play and the fact that all the bearings have prematurely failed/worn he no longer blames the trans but thinks the clearances might have been too tight I told him my oil pressure was consistently 80-85 psi cold, 75-80 hot revving with approx 50 psi hot idle which to me is not excessive for a new engine I don't remember my exact clearances but checked them with plasti-gauge (I know not perfect!) and they were certainly within spec at about 0.0025-0.0030 mains and 0.0020-0.0025 rods The crankshaft turned freely even with pistons installed and although plasti-gauge is not ideal even at the tighter side of the above clearances I am far from convinced it was the clearances causing this failure The oil was always clean even when I stopped the vehicle and wasn't until I got home the dirty oil finally mixed in Machinist is yet to check oil pump, galleries and cam bearings so could get another story next week My "theory" is something caused a drop in oil pressure such as a blocked oil gallery or an internal leak such as a slipped cam bearing or oil pump issue which led to the bearing failure and major scuffing in no 4 cylinder with minor scuffing in the rest Would be interesting to hear from members what oil pressures they have had on a fresh engine especially with new crank, rods etc Oh and you're welcome to add to the theory list, I could use a laugh right now
  24. I wired up 2 relays, one each for high and low beams You will find some info/plans on this thread - https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,12760.0.html
  25. I see you have a rivnut tool also, very handy for some applications Reckon you'll have that beast painted soon and glad you've stuck to the original green Are you able to paint in your yard/shed or is it a no no in your town? I can get away with some minor painting but hired a spray booth to do the big job due to bugs having a liking for 2 pack paint! As for my vehicle I'm awaiting an autopsy on the C4 trans which should determine the cause of the engine failure Will post a full report later but so far the crankshaft thrust bearing has failed due to the crankshaft being pushed forward This could be anything from the flex plate backwards but suspect the trans has somehow suddenly increased converter charge pressure and forced the crank forwards Just one of those unfortunate things that happens
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