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OzCoupe72

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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. If the o ring is leaking oil then the shaft seal would be leaking As mentioned before you will need to drop the pan and valve body so while you're at it may as well change the oil etc Here's a how to video if you want to DIY
  2. Welcome from Western Australia Nice stories you have and hopefully you will find a keeper someday
  3. Mine was born 8/71 so I was too young to drive it then at 10 years old
  4. Welcome from Western Australia Nice coupe you have there Hope your not affected by the flooding over your way
  5. If you didn't have this problem before rebuilding the carby then it will most likely be either a vacuum leak in this area or carby related Firstly you say a fuel leak at the bowl gasket, I would fix this first, either you have a loose screw or a bad or misaligned gasket If all your vacuum hoses check out then it could be at the carby mounting gasket You can spray some carby cleaner or aerostart around the carby base and listen for the idle, if no change should be okay, if not then your base gasket could be leaking so just check your nuts are tight but don't over tighten them but you may still have to replace the gasket Best not to spray close to your distributor/spark plug wires in case of ignition leaks but should be fine - fire extinguisher nearby is handy! I actually prefer propane gas, less messy Probably others will chime in and may be best if you let us know what carby/engine you have I had some idle issues I thought was vacuum leaks but it was more to do with the spacer I was using and needing to open the secondary butterflies up a little due to a long duration cam
  6. Thanks Fabrice, still a few bugs to sort out but nearly there Rear seat belts was forced to have fully retractable due to 20% increase in engine power and was easier to mount them on the parcel shelf although I had to mount the 6 x 9 speakers underneath to accommodate the belts. With engine HP apparently there is a rule of max 180 RWKW per tonne of the heaviest variant with ours being the 429 SCJ drag pack which works out at about 1670kg or 300 RWKW which I reckon I will exceed The Dyno tuner is aware of this and can tailor my initial tune report to meet this requirement, nudge nudge wink wink you know what I mean Not a tax category just the nanny state government keeping its citizens safe from old lead footed blokes like me lol
  7. Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback Now all I have to do is get it past the engineers and licensed so I can legally drive it Probably only driven it 10 miles all up so still breaking the rings in but it certainly is a beast so far!
  8. Been laying low for a few weeks waiting on parts to get my project nearer completion Took it for its maiden voyage a while back and while everything was going well unfortunately as I was reaching my destination the power steering hose blew and eventually destroyed the pump as well. Had to get it brought home on a truck which was a bit of a bummer. Not wanting to go with the Saginaw pump again I decided to upgrade to a pump that would match my rack & pinion and of course upgrade the hoses Took a while to find the right pulley to match my application but luckily Moroso make the correct pulley Pump is a GM Type 2 (sorry!)made for higher RPM and came with a bunch of brackets but luckily only needed one bracket and a couple of spacers Also have color sanded and compounded the paint work a month ago or so and today sealed it with a polymer sealant Has come up pretty good but still have a few paint chips and other cosmetic issues to deal with Anyway pics below and next up is to sort out some bugs then get it on the dyno The DOT wants me to get a report as I have to remain below 400 RWHP which I reckon I will exceed however with some creativity will be able to keep under this for the initial report by tweaking the timing etc Power steering pump installed, certainly much smaller than older style pumps Remote reservoir was mounted on the fan cowl as there was no more room
  9. Great work again Your vehicle when done is going to last longer than FoMoCo would ever have dreamed it would
  10. Looking great and quality work for sure Always good to have some progress
  11. Lizard skin is a bit too expensive for most people. As Don stated above it is fairly easy to make your own using ceramic micro-spheres mixed 50/50 with preferably a latex paint but I just used a gallon of enamel that was a mismatch for $20. Sprayed it through a schutz gun but reckon you could brush it on. All up about $120 compared to over $500 for the Lizard Skin. I also added some aftermarket adhesive sound insulation that was half the price of Dynamat and frankly can't see what the difference is. I haven't driven my vehicle prior to doing the above so can't comment on before/after but do believe it will make a difference and should give some heat insulation as well as sound deadening. I did take my vehicle for its first drive a while back and happy to say that while it is quiet when coasting but once the lead foot is applied it certainly growls!
  12. +1 on Badshoe productions, I bought his videos and they are well made Another link for buying parts at a reasonable price - http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/C6_transmission_kits_s/11634.htm Although like me the shipping will be the deciding factor
  13. That's not good but hopefully it gets sorted out and you will have your vehicle back soon I had a similar experience where I didn't get an estimate for my exhaust system and expected it would be about $1000 seeing as the headers were already installed and I supplied the mufflers they only had to make the pipes including a H pipe. Was a difficult job as it took them 8 hours($120 per hour) and I nearly fell on the floor once I got the bill for $1800. I had to pay it of course but must admit they did a very good job and it sounds great. Probably would have shopped around but being a difficult job to estimate just took a chance. I wonder if your transmission was damaged from the accident? Hopefully just an adjustment needed and not a broken pawl.
  14. Great work and looks like you've added a new addiction to your list The soldering iron is a great tool for plastic welding and if you have a soldering iron with multiple tips even better I find the flat blade tip works best as you can smooth the repair afterwards with the flat side Keep up the good work but beware of the fumes from the plastic!
  15. As others have said you will easily meet your HP requirements with the factory 4V heads I'm running Aussie 302 heads CNC ported on a 406 stroker and although yet to get dyno testing I should easily exceed 450HP As for cam selection I would go with the suggestions above I went for a Jones cam and although fairly close to the Lunati grind suggested there are some subtle differences Because I was able to provide cylinder head flow rates he was able to tailor the cam to suit and unlike most cams for 4V engines where they increase lift/duration on the exhaust side mine has .610 intake lift and .602 exhaust but 232 intake duration and 240 exhaust, seems odd but Jones does know his cams Would be best to order a custom cam once you have your entire combo selected especially heads
  16. G'day Fabrice Good to see your restaurant is still running flat out The 71 & 72 grille moldings are clipped directly on to the grille plastic, no removable clips If you are very careful, unlike myself, pry them off and you might not break any of the raised sections on the grille I broke several and glued most back on with PVC glue which kind of worked although some broke again From what Don says at OMS the 73 clips are too wide Picture below shows on the left what you are left with when they break and on the right a good one
  17. I think you are asking whether to repair the existing damage with perhaps some welding and finish with bondo or to replace the entire quarter section? If that is the only damage on your quarter panel then I would definitely repair it. Would not waste my time welding in a large section just for an easy repair Difficult to see from the photos but assuming no rust holes and just some previous damage then might just need to pull out any dents as best you can Many ways to do it like a simple slide hammer with a hook and tack weld one or two washers to the low spots then little by little tap it out Nothing wrong with body fillers at all just use a good quality product and don't put it on too thick i.e 1/8 inch layers When I stripped all paint from my coupe which hadn't been touched since 1980s it had body filler on every panel and in some places more than 1/2 inch thick! There was no cracking, lifting or surface rust below so my guess is they did the prep work correctly which basically is to scuff the bare metal with course 36-80 grit to allow for adhesion, prep the metal with a surface conditioner which is not always necessary and apply thin layers of filler. Best to get the metal repair as best you can though and use minimal filler for the imperfections Other thing to remember when working with body filler is to try not to use any water or wax and grease remover on it as it is porous and could cause issues later Best just to dry sand the filler, blow off the dust and get some primer sealer on it such as epoxy primer. After this you can get it straighter with a high build primer and/or fine poly filler or glaze putty
  18. I used a combination of home made lizard skin using a bag of ceramic spheres mixed in with some cheap enamel paint, a generic mat 1/3 price of Dynamat and some underlay under the carpet. Looks like I will have to open the windows now to hear the wonderful V8 sound but at least my feet won't burn when I drive around bare foot in the summer!
  19. One technique is to plunge a screwdriver into it, a bit old school and if you lose your screwdriver you definitely need to replace it!
  20. +1 on above I would not install the flat springs in your situation at all The repro hoods are made with thinner metal and there is a chance the heavier springs will cause it to buckle where the hinges mount Can't remember who but a member had this problem and had to repair plus reinforce his repro hood
  21. If you're looking for originality plus strength then the C6 is the way to go If you're not bothered by keeping it original either look at doing the FMX but due to difficulty getting parts and extra cost why not go for a C4? They can be built strong, less drag and plenty of parts available
  22. OzCoupe72, Especially since good ones are hard to come by. Are they reproduced? I have seen that the repo 71 -73 fast back ones are not of good quality. My guess is they are original as I inherited many trim parts including seats from an Olympic Sprint model although these might have been recovered Not sure if Coupe and Convertible are different but my original black ones don't have ashtrays or seat belt slots but the white ones do
  23. Good to hear you got some satisfaction from them albeit a slow response. I have purchased quite a bit from them and would agree their customer service is lacking somewhat. Everything apart from an oil pan that needed modification (ended up with a Kevko) was fine. I only buy from them when there is a sale on but if I want good service and advice I go elsewhere. Damn shame you had to destroy those valve covers they could have been repaired to look passable. Let's hope your next set works out and you are happy with the fit, mine are fine and have no complaints plus did not expect much for the price Make sure you use some Felpro rubber gaskets or similar
  24. Looks great, I have a spare set of white coupe(convertible?) trims but they are a little chalky so yours is a good solution Would be a shame to throw out an original set of trims just because they are chalky
  25. Use a new good quality weatherstrip, I think Daniel Carpenter makes a good one and use a good sealant inside the outer part of the weatherstrip I was going to install mine myself but not being a one person job I paid the windscreen guys 50 bucks extra to do it while they did the front screen and they had it done in no time at all plus I didn't have to shell out 30 bucks for a tube of good sealant I wouldn't bother with the foam tape as it's not very waterproof
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