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OzCoupe72

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Posts posted by OzCoupe72

  1. If you didn't have this problem before rebuilding the carby then it will most likely be either a vacuum leak in this area or carby related

    Firstly you say a fuel leak at the bowl gasket, I would fix this first, either you have a loose screw or a bad or misaligned gasket

    If all your vacuum hoses check out then it could be at the carby mounting gasket

     

    You can spray some carby cleaner or aerostart around the carby base and listen for the idle, if no change should be okay, if not then your base gasket could be leaking so just check your nuts are tight but don't over tighten them but you may still have to replace the gasket

    Best not to spray close to your distributor/spark plug wires in case of ignition leaks but should be fine - fire extinguisher nearby is handy!

    I actually prefer propane gas, less messy

     

    Probably others will chime in and may be best if you let us know what carby/engine you have

    I had some idle issues I thought was vacuum leaks but it was more to do with the spacer I was using and needing to open the secondary butterflies up a little due to a long duration cam

  2. [the power steering hose blew and eventually destroyed the pump as well]

    You're one lucky guy...

    No matter the odds against you, you managed to pull it off and it looks gorgeous! You can be proud!

     

    For the rear seats belts, are you forced to have them on top by law?

    Also you said, your engine needs to remain below 400 RWHP. What is the logic behind this law? A 395 hp car is ok, but 410 dangerous?

    Or is it a tax category?

     

    Thanks Fabrice, still a few bugs to sort out but nearly there

    Rear seat belts was forced to have fully retractable due to 20% increase in engine power and was easier to mount them on the parcel shelf although I had to mount the 6 x 9 speakers underneath to accommodate the belts.

    With engine HP apparently there is a rule of max 180 RWKW per tonne of the heaviest variant with ours being the 429 SCJ drag pack which works out at about 1670kg or 300 RWKW which I reckon I will exceed

    The Dyno tuner is aware of this and can tailor my initial tune report to meet this requirement, nudge nudge wink wink you know what I mean

    Not a tax category just the nanny state government keeping its citizens safe from old lead footed blokes like me lol

  3. Been laying low for a few weeks waiting on parts to get my project nearer completion

     

    Took it for its maiden voyage a while back and while everything was going well unfortunately as I was reaching my destination the power steering hose blew and eventually destroyed the pump as well. Had to get it brought home on a truck which was a bit of a bummer.

     

    Not wanting to go with the Saginaw pump again I decided to upgrade to a pump that would match my rack & pinion and of course upgrade the hoses

    Took a while to find the right pulley to match my application but luckily Moroso make the correct pulley

    Pump is a GM Type 2 (sorry!)made for higher RPM and came with a bunch of brackets but luckily only needed one bracket and a couple of spacers

     

    Also have color sanded and compounded the paint work a month ago or so and today sealed it with a polymer sealant

    Has come up pretty good but still have a few paint chips and other cosmetic issues to deal with

     

    Anyway pics below and next up is to sort out some bugs then get it on the dyno

    The DOT wants me to get a report as I have to remain below 400 RWHP which I reckon I will exceed however with some creativity will be able to keep under this for the initial report by tweaking the timing etc

     

    P1030180.thumb.jpg.6dd3da16db0b96bba960f4bf543c7e96.jpg

    Power steering pump installed, certainly much smaller than older style pumps

     

    P1030181.thumb.jpg.20179f75687414210d309102df77380f.jpg

    Remote reservoir was mounted on the fan cowl as there was no more room

     

    P1030174.thumb.jpg.cd858d73a7b9d5f11186550d6fc433b5.jpg

    P1030177.thumb.jpg.0c73650de98b311372d790ca15ced29f.jpg

    P1030179.thumb.jpg.39f3f19352f5f65c098e28b5d2ff792d.jpg

  4. Lizard skin is a bit too expensive for most people. As Don stated above it is fairly easy to make your own using ceramic micro-spheres mixed 50/50 with preferably a latex paint but I just used a gallon of enamel that was a mismatch for $20. Sprayed it through a schutz gun but reckon you could brush it on. All up about $120 compared to over $500 for the Lizard Skin. I also added some aftermarket adhesive sound insulation that was half the price of Dynamat and frankly can't see what the difference is.

    I haven't driven my vehicle prior to doing the above so can't comment on before/after but do believe it will make a difference and should give some heat insulation as well as sound deadening. I did take my vehicle for its first drive a while back and happy to say that while it is quiet when coasting but once the lead foot is applied it certainly growls!

  5. That's not good but hopefully it gets sorted out and you will have your vehicle back soon

     

    I had a similar experience where I didn't get an estimate for my exhaust system and expected it would be about $1000 seeing as the headers were already installed and I supplied the mufflers they only had to make the pipes including a H pipe. Was a difficult job as it took them 8 hours($120 per hour) and I nearly fell on the floor once I got the bill for $1800. I had to pay it of course but must admit they did a very good job and it sounds great. Probably would have shopped around but being a difficult job to estimate just took a chance.

     

    I wonder if your transmission was damaged from the accident? Hopefully just an adjustment needed and not a broken pawl.

  6. Great work and looks like you've added a new addiction to your list

    The soldering iron is a great tool for plastic welding and if you have a soldering iron with multiple tips even better

    I find the flat blade tip works best as you can smooth the repair afterwards with the flat side

    Keep up the good work but beware of the fumes from the plastic!

  7. As others have said you will easily meet your HP requirements with the factory 4V heads

    I'm running Aussie 302 heads CNC ported on a 406 stroker and although yet to get dyno testing I should easily exceed 450HP

    As for cam selection I would go with the suggestions above

    I went for a Jones cam and although fairly close to the Lunati grind suggested there are some subtle differences

    Because I was able to provide cylinder head flow rates he was able to tailor the cam to suit and unlike most cams for 4V engines where they increase lift/duration on the exhaust side mine has .610 intake lift and .602 exhaust but 232 intake duration and 240 exhaust, seems odd but Jones does know his cams

    Would be best to order a custom cam once you have your entire combo selected especially heads

  8. G'day Fabrice

    Good to see your restaurant is still running flat out

    The 71 & 72 grille moldings are clipped directly on to the grille plastic, no removable clips

    If you are very careful, unlike myself, pry them off and you might not break any of the raised sections on the grille

    I broke several and glued most back on with PVC glue which kind of worked although some broke again

    From what Don says at OMS the 73 clips are too wide

    Picture below shows on the left what you are left with when they break and on the right a good one

    P1030173.thumb.jpg.cd679f3ad986a6997dfbac554aec4765.jpg

  9. I think you are asking whether to repair the existing damage with perhaps some welding and finish with bondo or to replace the entire quarter section?

     

    If that is the only damage on your quarter panel then I would definitely repair it.

    Would not waste my time welding in a large section just for an easy repair

     

    Difficult to see from the photos but assuming no rust holes and just some previous damage then might just need to pull out any dents as best you can

    Many ways to do it like a simple slide hammer with a hook and tack weld one or two washers to the low spots then little by little tap it out

    Nothing wrong with body fillers at all just use a good quality product and don't put it on too thick i.e 1/8 inch layers

     

    When I stripped all paint from my coupe which hadn't been touched since 1980s it had body filler on every panel and in some places more than 1/2 inch thick!

    There was no cracking, lifting or surface rust below so my guess is they did the prep work correctly which basically is to scuff the bare metal with course 36-80 grit to allow for adhesion, prep the metal with a surface conditioner which is not always necessary and apply thin layers of filler. Best to get the metal repair as best you can though and use minimal filler for the imperfections

     

    Other thing to remember when working with body filler is to try not to use any water or wax and grease remover on it as it is porous and could cause issues later

    Best just to dry sand the filler, blow off the dust and get some primer sealer on it such as epoxy primer. After this you can get it straighter with a high build primer and/or fine poly filler or glaze putty

  10. +1 on above

    I would not install the flat springs in your situation at all

    The repro hoods are made with thinner metal and there is a chance the heavier springs will cause it to buckle where the hinges mount

    Can't remember who but a member had this problem and had to repair plus reinforce his repro hood

  11. If you're looking for originality plus strength then the C6 is the way to go

    If you're not bothered by keeping it original either look at doing the FMX but due to difficulty getting parts and extra cost why not go for a C4?

    They can be built strong, less drag and plenty of parts available

  12. Looks great, I have a spare set of white coupe(convertible?) trims but they are a little chalky so yours is a good solution

    Would be a shame to throw out an original set of trims just because they are chalky

     

    OzCoupe72,

     

    Especially since good ones are hard to come by. Are they reproduced? I have seen that the repo 71 -73 fast back ones are not of good quality.

    My guess is they are original as I inherited many trim parts including seats from an Olympic Sprint model although these might have been recovered

    Not sure if Coupe and Convertible are different but my original black ones don't have ashtrays or seat belt slots but the white ones do

  13. Good to hear you got some satisfaction from them albeit a slow response. I have purchased quite a bit from them and would agree their customer service is lacking somewhat. Everything apart from an oil pan that needed modification (ended up with a Kevko) was fine. I only buy from them when there is a sale on but if I want good service and advice I go elsewhere.

    Damn shame you had to destroy those valve covers they could have been repaired to look passable.

    Let's hope your next set works out and you are happy with the fit, mine are fine and have no complaints plus did not expect much for the price

    Make sure you use some Felpro rubber gaskets or similar

  14. Use a new good quality weatherstrip, I think Daniel Carpenter makes a good one and use a good sealant inside the outer part of the weatherstrip

    I was going to install mine myself but not being a one person job I paid the windscreen guys 50 bucks extra to do it while they did the front screen and they had it done in no time at all plus I didn't have to shell out 30 bucks for a tube of good sealant

    I wouldn't bother with the foam tape as it's not very waterproof

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