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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Didn't know you could buy the Aussie Penrite oil in the UK Not a bad oil and I have their high zinc break in oil in mine even though I have a roller cam Used to love the USA made Pennzoil but can't seem to buy it over my way, best oil back in the day As others have said Valvoline VR-1 is good and I have a box of it for my next couple of oil changes You will be fine with what you have gone with as your engine is well and truly broken in
  2. That's a shame, mine arrived fine and the fasteners were taped up Hopefully you get some satisfaction from them From what I know the Proflow gear is mostly made in China (isn't most stuff?) I recently purchased a B&M Shifter expecting made in USA but of course on the box made in China, seems well built though Unfortunately due to the almighty dollar we have to put up with what we can get sometimes I liked the Ford Performance valve covers but couldn't justify the cost and not sure they would clear the Scorpion rockers Good luck and keep us posted and if you don't get satisfaction soon PM me and will call them myself
  3. Welcome from Western Australia Good luck with your project
  4. I thought the same thing when I started my project. The more I looked the more I found aaargghhh!! First thing I did was the floors and cowl panel then trunk floor, quarters etc Best to get the most difficult areas done first I reckon With the tail lamps as far as I know they had a thick rubber gasket and no sealer but perhaps someone can confirm Agree in some areas it is best just to treat and apply epoxy primer, 2K primer and paint and make sure your drain holes are clear In some areas such as roof drip rail mouldings rather than use tape I found it better to use strip caulking You might get away with patching your trunk floor but be aware the metal will be quite thin and difficult to weld so might have to cut a fair bit away to find good metal.
  5. In my relatively large town area of about 70,000 I doubt there would be more than a handful of people who would even recognize let alone actually have seen a 7173. With mine about to hit the bitumen within a month or two it will definitely be an unknown sure to get attention I know of one Mach 1 further south of this town which is an unfinished project and a handful of these vehicles further north in the city of Perth I reckon it is to our advantage as most car enthusiasts get used to the more common earlier Mustangs and don't always give them a second look
  6. Looks like they did a good job, sounds good also I used the Summit turbo mufflers and sounds great when stationary but yet to drive it Be interesting if you get any drone as mentioned by Geoff
  7. Looks like a good set up especially cam selection. Carby should be fine, Holley recommends the 770 based on my similar setup to yours. Pity about the machining for the seal not done. From memory the Scat 4.000 inch cranks do away with the oil slinger so one piece seal is almost mandatory. Can also recommend the Rob Mac fuel pump just remember you may need to upgrade your fuel lines to 1/2 inch and this pump sits close or even touches the oil filter, no problem just need to put a small dent in the filter once installed for clearance. Good luck with the build
  8. Getting closer to finishing my project however there is always something that comes along to slow things down. Installed new seat belts and due to our regulations I had to install rear retractable seat belts on the outers. Cost a fair bit extra also to have the much closer to original chrome buckles all up $1150 AUD - OUCH! And of course these belts now interfered with the 6 x 9 speakers I had installed earlier. Ended up having to trim the seat belt covers and mounted the speakers underneath the parcel shelf. Tight squeeze and not the best look but no other option. Next was to install new carpet and underlay which went well enough however when I went to install the console around the auto shifter there was a distinct misalignment with the modified for RHD shifter and console/shift indicator. As much as I don't mind the factory type shifter it was going to be a major job to modify everything so I decided an aftermarket shifter was on the menu. Being RHD not many options except the RHD B&M Megashifter. Installation was not too difficult, just had to make a plate to suit the floor which allowed me to use the original mounting points. Notched a slot for the cable to go through, made a harness for the NSS switch, cut the B&M console down a little Tricky job was cutting the C4 shift lever back as due to the headers there was no room for a grinder but luckily was able to just get the Dremel in there. Took most of the day to install but pretty happy with it and will compliment my other performance mods. Pics below
  9. I did my floors only last weekend and have a 40 sq ft box of sheets with 1sheet left over so probably 36 sq ft for floors only I reckon 2 boxes should do and you will have enough for the roof, inside quarters/doors etc I'm not sure if the dynamat/xmat will work well on the roof as being upside down with heat over time may cause the adhesive to come away For the roof I glued some foam insulation 3/8 thick and it's lightweight enough that if it does come unstuck it shouldn't show on the headliner
  10. $80 USD is certainly a rip off. I paid about $45 USD and it comes with a handle with velcro so you can put a 1 inch sanding disc on it, this one - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TUNGSTEN-BLOCK-DENIB-FILE-FILING-SANDING-DE-NIB/321505477605?hash=item4adb3843e5:g:zzsAAOSwQH5b23bl Certainly an old razor works but best to sand the corners back a bit and no doubt many other ways to skin a cat but for me I can't help myself when a time saving gadget comes along to expand my ever growing tool collection.
  11. For those of us spray painting our own vehicles it is inevitable we will get some dust in the paint and no doubt most of us will get a run or two There is nothing wrong with getting a run in the paint and from a well known local spray painter he reckons if you don't get a run every now and again you are not putting the paint on thick enough! Anyway there are a few ways of removing these imperfections including applying fine body filler over the run then wet sanding the hell out of it or sanding the dust nibs with a tiny block and 1500 grit sandpaper or finer Always looking for a better way I came across a relatively newer way of approaching this using a tungsten block so always looking for a better way I purchased a tungsten block receiving it today and couldn't help myself in at least giving it a shot. Boy was I surprised at how easily it removed any blemishes but you do need to be careful with it As much as I would like to take a video of my results I was lazy and have included a link here to a well made video
  12. Like you I have a standard hood that is not worth repairing but might have a go at it if time permits so I bought a NASA hood and despite it traveling half way around the world it arrived unexpectedly perfect. Like others have stated you will no doubt need to address the bow. I actually did a combination of shims for the fenders and then massaged the hood while it was installed and got it although not perfect certainly acceptable to me. I was worried with the thinner sheet metal of the hood I could end up creasing it so will live with a slight bow. I will use a cavity wax later to help protect inside the frame and like David stated removed the e-coat on top and just scuffed underneath. Must be said that although hood arrived undamaged it did need quite a bit of work to get perfectly straight.
  13. Congratulations and one big hurdle to get over Can't wait until mine is roadworthy enough just to test drive let alone fully legal
  14. Starting to come along well. Love that rear end set up and will be interesting to see how it handles the road
  15. Is that all! Only $20K? I was planning on $30K over but then again I'm $AUD so you could be about right But really I don't care what it costs me nor am I keeping tabs on expenditure, just love the car
  16. Those are the exact ones I was looking at last year! I really like them. But all ones I found were from Australia and shipping was around $100. So is says it would be 318.90 AUD shipped. So there is a exchange rate factor here right?!? 318.90 AUD comes out to 225.83 USD. In the end I would only expect to pay 225.83 right? Still wouldn't mind cheaper ones but I'm not really seeing anything I like. I really do like these though... They are the ones I have and they fit perfectly plus they clear the tall Scorpion rockers, fasteners supplied Sometimes they have a 20% off sale and that's when I bought mine for about $140AUD Maybe if I see them on special again I'll buy a couple of sets and if anyone wants some at whatever they cost plus postage, hmm maybe can do a bulk buy?
  17. Cheers. I was given some XA falcon discs for the front and they took the same bearings but I couldn't get them to tighten up properly so had to buy 71-73 Mustang rotors. Hope to change the rears to discs eventually and probably beefier suspension but budget definitely doesn't allow for that until I've paid it off! Lol. They didn't mention the park brake so I'm keeping quiet. I did tell the mechanic prior though so I presume they may have adjusted the tension when on the hoist That's unusual as I used XY/XA rotors DBA106HS and pads S776HD. Also replaced wheel bearings with XA onwards kit 2746. From my fading memory the new discs might have had XY type bearing races installed and had to remove and fit XA type from the kit but can't remember if both inner and outer. Correct Mustang part numbers should be outer cone LM12749 outer race LM12710 inner cone L68149 inner race L68110
  18. If I get a report like that will be more than happy, only minor issues Hopefully you get the hand brake sorted and if you need I have an old pedal assembly you can have but not sure of condition yet Not sure if you get our Falcons over there but I installed an AU Falcon floor mounted handbrake along with EL rear discs You probably want to keep it original but if interested let me know
  19. Oh and forgot to mention you can use the earlier 69/70 rear floor sections(under seat) Just need to hammer down a rib
  20. i just forfeited a holiday to pay for all the parts. I mainly use CJPP, post Brexit we're f£$%ed every which way so just get on and pay for it..... hopefully when the US trade deal comes along (with no strings attached pls) we get tax free imports and can buy parts to our hearts content :) floors should be ok, i'll check out those posts, i have seen a couple of good vids on youtube as well. I just need to be patient and take my time. Parts arrive mid March so i will work on detailing wheel arches and engine bay.
  21. The Scorpion rockers a quite tall so doubt stock covers will clear them I even had to search for longer than usual studs to get correct valve geometry
  22. Good luck with your project and if you don't get afflicted by the dreaded "while I'm at it" syndrome you may even keep to your deadline, I certainly didn't! Like me being international it gets very expensive to ship large parts so the shipping cost is the biggest deciding factor I prefer to buy from OMS but sometimes for larger parts I''l go through a Sydney supplier or lately have found NPD to be reasonable Do you have any Mustang parts suppliers in the UK that regularly sea freight parts? May have to wait a few months but certainly cheaper. You shouldn't have too much problem with welding the floor pans in and best to butt weld. Plenty of info on the web but also check out Q code's videos and posts on this, he does a great video on doing floors just search in the body/chassis tutorials section
  23. I have stock seats and a Grant 13.5 inch steering wheel and although I can get in and out of the vehicle there is not a lot of room, I would try to lower the seats if possible and then if needed a smaller steering wheel might be the answer Tilt steering is an expensive option so leave it until last
  24. Why don't these vehicles come up for sale in my area? Ad looks fine but unless you are desperate for money I would keep what looks like a fairly solid vehicle and wait until you have the funds to get started on it.
  25. An update on progress Had a long weekend so got ready for spray painting my rear damage and had a small window of opportunity when the wind was low yesterday so got up early and prepped everything including masking. The wind finally dropped enough so I blasted some color on and did my best to blend it into the roof line using a blending solvent Will still have to color sand and buff it all so hopefully comes out okay Only problem I noticed that in my rush to get some paint on I missed some sanding marks in one area on the quarter panel which barely show up in the paint but still noticeable so will see how it comes out after buffing. Frankly right now I've had enough of body work so will live with it until it gets the better of me. Started assembling the rear area and starting to look like a vehicle now but waiting on some tail lamp seals to install them
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