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Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. If you don't like the white seats why not just dye them black? My coupe came with white/blue olympic seats so I just painted them and came out fine, also freshened up the door trims Make sure you use only the best vinyl dye SEM in Landau black which is a satin black Also get their vinyl prep and you should use their plastic adhesion primer for the plastic parts, I used a cheaper brand to do the plastic seat backing and it doesn't stick as well Also important you scrub clean everything prior to paint prep including the piping Expensive stuff but would not use anything else and you can buy in NZ
  2. Looking great and like the wheels Hopefully you get it on the road soon, seems to take forever
  3. These not only look good but tall enough for roller rockers Not expensive either at about $150AUD Still have 3 sets of standard valve covers
  4. They have certainly done a superb job and bet you can't wait to get driving it again Hoping mine will be on the road soon
  5. Welcome from Western Australia Certainly go a decent project to burn some time, and cash!
  6. Thanks Fabrice, hopefully will have the scars on the back done soon, then interior and finally registration! As for the scoop inserts I actually did wonder why they were closed, no doubt without a ram air system there is the chance for water and bugs to enter the engine bay. Our XB Falcon has perhaps the same scoop except it has an open grille and they don't have ram air or a shaker example here - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-Fairmont-XB-XC-GS-GT-XC-Cobra-Pair-Bonnet-Scoops-Vents/202579863306?hash=item2f2ab3670a:g:kdQAAOSwlLlcKK-Q:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true Maybe I'll just drill them out rather than spend money on XB ones especially if they don't fit!
  7. Still working on the rear end damage but making some progress. Took a bit of work to bend the trunk hinge back into shape and made a clamping tool to help pull it back. Tack welded the new trunk skin and seam sealed the edge so while I had the rest of the day I decided to get the front of the car back together. I had removed the grille moldings and of course the tabs broke so I glued most of them back on. Painted the grille to black it out and went to put the moldings back on but some of the tabs broke again so will probably have to glue part of the molding on but if anyone has a suggestion for this and perhaps can adapt the later molding clips to work? Anyway after lots of adjusting, bending and grunting I managed to get the front end together. Not perfect but as good as I'm going to get for a 47 year old vehicle with a mix of OEM and after market parts on it. Hopefully next weekend I get the rear end at least ready for color.
  8. Thanks for posting such a rare and low mileage vehicle I suppose one this rare belongs in a museum but would love to own it
  9. Decided to leave the panel damage I had inflicted and not being sure I could repair it myself had lined up a panel beater to have a look at it. While waiting for a new trunk lid and the panel beater I decided to keep going with the project so installed the headliner which wasn't as hard as I thought just a bit tedious at 5 hours to do it. Came out pretty good and although a couple of minor creases at the rear I'm happy with it. Also removed the rear axle assembly as I wanted to modify the brackets for the emergency brake so I fabricated some new brackets then welded them on. Anyway the trunk lid turned up surprisingly early but no reply from the panel beater so after a lot of thought I decided I should at least have a try at it seeing as I had a Porta-Power hydraulic puller and plenty of chains. I took my time pulling a section at a time to gradually pull it out also using the hammer and dolly while it was under tension I really didn't expect to have much success but by the end of the day was very happy with the progress Had to shrink a few areas using both the MAP torch and the shrinking disc Tomorrow will be more hammer and dolly work, filler and primer but first will have to check panel alignment and make adjustments My next issue is dealing with the bent trunk hinges which could be a bit tricky
  10. Sometimes you need to calibrate the sending unit by bending the rod until you get an acceptable reading. In your case since you have gas in the tank you could jack up the drivers side of the vehicle so the gas doesn't come out of the tank then remove the sender unit and bend the rod downwards a little, reinstall the sender unit, let the jack down until level then check your gauge reading and if close to 1/4 full then done otherwise repeat the procedure. Also you say new unit 9 - 68 ohms, are you able to get a reading with 1/4 tank maybe 20 - 30 ohms? If still 9 ohms then calibrate your sender, if 20-30 could be earthing or voltage regulator on the instrument cluster. Perhaps someone will chime in with other ideas but this is what I would do first.
  11. Yes seems odd that 2-3 companies would have tooled up for the same parts, would be an expensive exercise but as long as they profit I have a few repro panels including cowl, hood, floors, quarter patch and ALL required some reworking however I don't care, just happy I can actually get them! I have just received a new trunk lid and can't even work out which brand or company made it yet They are a bit thinner than original but overall acceptable, got to be careful though as already damaged the new trunk trying to straighten the hinges and have heard horror stories with the hoods buckling when closing although luckily mine was originally a flat hood with softer springs so all good so far I reckon everyone here would be glad to pay a premium price for a guaranteed quality product, I know I would, but at the moment as others say it's a crap shoot. One thing I must mention is so far I've received all panels in good condition considering they have travelled all over the globe I got lucky perhaps but they were certainly packaged well.
  12. Great photos and looks like you have a pretty good vehicle to start with Will look forward to seeing it in the museum when done Hopefully some members here can help out where possible for a good cause
  13. See my recent post about removing old tape/glue as you will need to clean up some areas first The strip caulking is the best way to go for re-sealing the roof drip and weatherstrip channels Don't just replace the weatherstrips, remove and reseal the drip/weather strip channels(moldings) Get yourself some 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to glue new weather seals in place You can use ordinary contact glue but the 3M adhesive seems better and also works well for headliners Just remember before you apply any adhesive retrofit your pieces to see where they line up as you may have to make some adjustments Maybe post some specific questions for more detailed answers
  14. I'm in the process of putting my vehicle back together after paint and just doing the roof rail moldings/weatherstrips now One of the worst jobs is removing old adhesive especially the double-sided foam tape so I Googled for some ideas and everything from WD40, wax & grease remover to eucalyptus oil was mentioned as the bees knees to remove it so I gave it a try and although it softened it a little it was still a slow and tedious process. One bloke mentioned pouring boiling water over it so I gave that a try and it worked quite well however was quite messy as I needed to do this inside the shed. Then a light bulb went off and I realized I had bought a clothes steamer like this one - https://www.target.com.au/p/garment-steamer/60024565 I bought it ages ago to remove window tint film which by the way works perfectly well for this So I got it out and gave it a try and boy did it make life easy, only needed to put the nozzle over for 10-20 seconds and by using a plastic trim remover tool that has the width of the tape or you could get away with a screwdriver it removed it in no time Also used it to remove old glue and the caulking from the drip rails You can even use it for removing stickers and old masking tape Any garment steamer would do it and for 50 bucks well worth it and you might want to use it for your clothes too! Oh and don't forget to wear gloves!
  15. Good luck with your project Vinnie and try not to fall into the "while I'm at it" trap! Believe me it will cost you heel veel guilders - sorry about my Dutch
  16. Welcome to the forum, you're in the right place Good to see another coupe and looks like you have a great starting project Like others have said you will be surprised how with just a few improvements these cars can handle well but don't forget to upgrade the brakes My coupe was originally a 302W but I bought it with a Cleveland in it but I have owned a few 302's and have a soft spot for them +1 on David's advice especially the cowl area and definitely take pictures, bag & tag Oh and thanks for the music video David Good luck with your project and will watch your progress
  17. Welcome from sunny and warm Western Australia Don't forget the pics!
  18. As usual some great work you are doing Fabrice despite the freezing conditions The way you're going you'll end up with a new career as an industrial chemist! Have you tried using cadmium as this is used in plating quite a bit? Your efforts have inspired me to check out doing it myself if I ever find the time While having a look on the internet found an Aussie website that sells DIY plating kits - http://www.caswellplating.com.au/plating_kits.html I'll have to invest in a white coat and glasses first, then grow some Einstein hair though
  19. Welcome from Western Australia, bigger than Texas When I one day go to the USA Texas is top of the list
  20. G'day and welcome from Western Australia Good luck with the build
  21. Probably need a better description or photo of the damage I'm gathering it is down the lower part of the A pillar near the hinges If so will need to remove the fender and door for better access Depending on the damage you may be able to rig up a Porta-power and pull it out If not much experience might be better to go to a local panel beater and get them to pull it out, wouldn't cost a lot I reckon Main problem will be getting it back to its original position which would be easier to check with a good door or take measurement from the good side Good luck
  22. After having a better look yesterday I saw the skin had separated from the frame rib and was buckled I found a good way for pulling some dents especially long ones is to weld some large washers along the dent and depending which angle either a bar or bolt through the washers or a set of hooks then use a slide hammer or puller. Works well for those who don't have a stud welder and will use this method for pulling below the tail light panel, which is worse than it looks in the photo As they say six ways to skin a cat and no matter what way the cat is still skun!
  23. Looks great, you'll have her back in no time! Did they paint using base/clear or single stage?
  24. Thanks John and hope your vehicle is coming along well, it is in good hands and look forward to seeing you get it back We all learn from our mistakes and this one will teach me a few lessons Unfortunately the trunk lid is toast but hopefully can get one from the other side of the country, don't want to wait 3-4 months again! Fell off the horse(pony) just need to get back on it!
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