Jump to content

OzCoupe72

VIP Members
  • Posts

    650
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by OzCoupe72

  1. Thanks Fabrice, don't know if I can forgive myself for this one, I should have known but in hindsight all the excitement at getting my freshly painted baby back home was not thinking clearly, perhaps the paint fumes? The 4WD it hit was on axle stands and it actually pushed it off the stands, unluckily it hit the 4WD bumper reinforcement which is why so much damage to the Mustang Anyway already planning to utilize the big palm tree out the front as an anchor to pull it out
  2. Finally got up the courage to have a better look at the damage Main damage is below the tail lamp, the crease in the quarter panel and the trunk lid which is a write off Will have a break for a while and slowly have a go at pulling the worst of it out Luckily the quarter crease is before the wheel arch so can hammer & dolly it although may have to cut the crease when I pull it then weld it up Still kicking myself but will recover, I think?
  3. Thanks Don, inspiring story I will be considering having a go at it using anchor points, chains and my pulling ram The trunk lid I'm not sure I can fix yet but will check it out, new one $450 ouch! Just disappointing for this to happen only hours from new paint, giving it a rest for a while until I get the enthusiasm back
  4. Thanks Vinnie I haven't actually taken photos of the damage yet but might post some later once I calm down Not game to open the trunk yet either as I fear the trunk floor might have been pushed in a little My initial assessment is I will definitely have to pull the whole corner out which will help get the crease out of the quarter panel I have some hydraulic rams (Porta-power) but doubt they will be strong enough so may have to pay a panel beater for some rack straightening
  5. Well what can I say but good news and bad news. After more than 2 years I finally got some color on my coupe, 3 coats single stage Baslac urethane - Bright Red Drove 2 hours to Perth as I had rented a spray booth Very hot day 42 deg C/107 F Tried my best to keep sweat off the paint but got one area which should buff out All in all a pretty neat job apart from some dust nibs and the sweat streak Went to drive the car back on the trailer but it ran out of gas, no problem though just winched it on My problem was going to be getting it off the trailer by myself as normally would drive it off but no time to get gas and prime the carb plus I had to get the trailer back on time As I have done it before my plan was to roll the car off the trailer and put some large blocks of wood as a back stop Got home and in a rush I prepared to roll it off the trailer but didn't allow enough room for it to roll to a near stop When it rolled off the trailer it picked up speed then the back wheels rolled right over the wooden blocks and into the vehicle behind it I rushed to the rear of the car to inspect the damage, I can't repeat all the swear words here but when I saw the damage my heart sank Right now I'm very disappointed in myself and won't post the damage photos yet but I have damaged the rear tail panel, trunk lid and rh quarter I should be able to repair the tail panel/quarter but reckon the trunk lid is not repairable The good news - I have plenty of spare paint to repair my mistakes! Photos before the accident below, back to kicking myself profusely
  6. i for one would definitely use someone else like jones or chris straub. . Why???? Yes would also like to know why? I've followed the 351 forum and Brent is not only respected and knowledgeable but always willing to give members his time Unfortunately I wasn't aware of Brent when I ordered my cam from Jones While Jones is certainly an expert on camshaft technology he is very much lacking in customer service, never again!
  7. Sad news indeed. Although I didn't know Eddy personally it is still sad to lose a fellow member who shares the same passion we all do. Condolences to his loved ones.
  8. I've used LEDs in the turn signal indicators no problem, just can't use LED for the alternator warning lamp if equipped Sounds like your pin at the cluster could be the culprit which you can pull the plug away and bend the tang a little and/or clean it up. Could also be the printed circuit if you didn't test it all the way at the connector end and if that's no good then a Midlife hard wired cluster would be a better fix.
  9. Sounds like they're doing some quality work, hope you get it back soon
  10. Great progress you are making and like others said if only I had your energy Will be good to see the finished product Like the colour and hopefully after more than 2 years I will finally get some bright red on mine next week
  11. The Maier setup is definitely a better option but being a one piece unit the shipping cost might be prohibitive for us international buyers Wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate something like this at home I reckon Perhaps I will get the additional TCP Monte Carlo setup when I'm not bankrupt
  12. Welcome from Western Australia Don't forget the photos!
  13. Interesting thoughts on the effectiveness of these braces whether OEM or aftermarket Personally I don't think they do a lot except stiffen the shock towers slightly under certain conditions Our Aussie Falcons 1967 onwards, which are near identical, have never used shock tower braces and never heard of any problems even on race cars Only reason I installed the TCM braces was my OEM braces interfered with my brake master cylinder being RHD conversion and just wanted them for insurance plus they look trick! As I'm yet to drive my Mustang for the first time I can't give a comparison and honestly doubt I would feel any difference anyways Pics below and you will see I had to use short nuts rather than taller Nylocs on the shock tower
  14. Yes just did mine on the weekend If your using original suspension you may need shorter nuts rather than nyloc (I used exh manifold nuts as they are shorter and still lock a little) or if you can get the shock tower bolts longer would be best You can mount the firewall bracket under the cowl lip as in your picture or above which I found easier although you will need to flatten the lip for this method. Overall a quality product but yet to drive my vehicle so can't give any reports on performance Here's a video on installation -
  15. If it won't turn over by jumping the solenoid try direct battery power to the cable going to the starter but just briefly to see if the starter actually engages If nothing you've either got a loose connection especially at the starter or a burnt out starter motor
  16. Not a bad bunch of cars from 250 workers, great of the boss to put on a show My personal favorite is your Mustang though I do like any older vehicle still driven Unfortunately I only work with 10 people and the only one with an old vehicle is unable to bring it to work yet, unfinished project!
  17. Welcome from Western Australia Awesome vehicle you have there and a great story Would be interesting to know more about this car especially engine mods or is it near factory? C4 behind a big block must have some stout mods to handle the torque Also would be interesting to know your ET down the quarter mile
  18. From what I can see in the photo your inner race needs to be fully seated to edge #1 Perhaps there is some scoring or a nick from removing it with the punch? Pop it back out again and check the inner disc surface for any marks particularly raised surfaces and clean them up I would change the races in the new discs to Timken or similar to save having to do it again due to failure
  19. Yes interesting infomercial and was waiting for the free steak knives at the end lol The idea seems sound and if it really does improve throttle response then could be worth a try but at 60% off or $40USD for a bit of brass it's understandable many would be skeptical so would be interested if any members have actually tried this gadget
  20. Great work as usual Fabrice especially your epic hood effort! Will be repairing the aftermarket hood I have with the usual bow in it and removing most of the e-coat before priming Great deal you got on your radiator, I paid about $900AUD for a custom radiator but for that price I would have bought 2 or 3! Hearing you talk about the cold weather brings me back to my time in the Netherlands Dec 99/Jan 00 so I can understand why it is difficult to paint I have the opposite problem this weekend as although it is summer we have thunderstorms around and humidity is too high for painting Wouldn't we all like a climate controlled spray booth!
  21. After a long 6 months wait my donor window filler panel finally turned up so it was time to get this installed so I can continue with the panel work First thing to do was to separate the upper panel from the lower section by drilling out the spot welds then I got my blaster to blast underneath and all the edges These areas were epoxy primed prior to welding in place. Unfortunately the blasting had popped the panel causing some oil canning but this could be fixed later and luckily my blaster being a panel beater had the right equipment along with experience to fix this Next was to drill out the old window panel, remove it and prep for welding Main problem here is it is virtually impossible to drill out the spot welds at each end where it meets the quarters as these are underneath so the easier solution was to cut the ends close to the join then once the upper panel is removed simply grind off the spot welds or you could even drill them if you wish Next was to clean up all areas to be welded and apply some weld through primer One issue I faced was whether I could plug weld the ends and although possible I wasn't prepared to get my 6 foot frame inside the trunk to upside down weld a few plug welds so for the end sections I decided it would be a much better proposition to glue this area which would also help seal it more effectively One thing must be mentioned it is very important to do a mock up fitment then install the trunk lid to ensure everything lines up. Luckily it was spot on lining up with the old marks! Once all prep is done and alignment is checked it was time to clamp everything in place and weld it in A tip when plug welding along the weatherstrip channel is to close up the mig shielding nozzle with a vice a little so it will squeeze into the channel Next was the tedious job of grinding the welds smooth, removing old paint, repairing oil canning, epoxy primer, filler, epoxy then high build primer, blocking down and a last coat of primer, nearly ready for paint One job finally done and what a relief Hopefully after I fix a few panel gaps and get the aftermarket hood straightened out I will be closer to getting some color on the car
  22. Hi Steve Looks like you have already ordered your caliper parts. I had mine rebuilt by a Perth brake rebuilder and they are the same parts as our local Falcon XY/XA with the Kelsey Hays calipers. Disc pads and rotors also same but some disc rotors come with the earlier falcon bearing cups but you just knock these out and install XA falcon ones.
  23. Another way I was able to get WOT apart from modifying the pedal pivot point was to attach the throttle cable ball at a point closer to the throttle shaft which will lessen the total cable travel Mine being a Holley has 3 different holes for attachment so not sure for the Quickfuel?
  24. Welcome from Western Australia, very sharp coupe you have and like the color
  25. Fabrice's idea of modifying the brace should work or perhaps you can modify the drop base air cleaner? I have the NASA hood, air gap, 1 inch spacer, Holley 770 and drop base but looks like it just touches in one area so might have to go to a 1/2 inch spacer This combo might work in a normal set up with NASA hood but I had to raise the engine 1/4 inch to clear the steering rack
×
×
  • Create New...