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About erikroy57

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    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 Mach 1


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  1. Have you ever find the issue, im afraid i hit the same problem ?
  2. Finally received my new starter solenoid, to replace my default solenoid (that was also brand new). Both Ford solenoid. So i put the new one, and here we go, first time i ride the car since since 2016 when i bought it. Thanks a lot for all the help !!
  3. Hi Don, here is what i found. I completely unplug the big green connector from the end of the harness to the fuse box under the dash. On the starter solenoid, i unplug the ‘’I’’ (green-red) connector (S, red-blue still connected). So now the coil do not heated anymore. If i reconnect the ‘’I’’, the coil is starting to heat heavily. does that mean that my brand new starter solenoid is broken ?
  4. Thanks for all the answers, really appreciated. Yes, i do have the 3 gauges in the center of the dash. Now my real issue is, that as soon as i connect the battery, the coil is getting heavily hot. Note that the keys are not in the switch, they are in my pockets. What is wrong ???
  5. Hi, Im working hard to rebuild a car i buy in pieces. Im pretty sure I wired correctly all the 4 post of the starter solenoid Left: Bat + S: Red with Blue stripe I: Red with green stripe Right: Starter My main concern is regarding the 2 yellow wires. From below picture, A is coming from the alternator. B is coming from the harness under the hood. Where should they be connected ?? Merci !
  6. Hi, I remove my clusters to do some cleanup and maintenance, and i came across this green connector, that was not connected anywhere. The wiring come from the top of the dash, any idea what it should be connected to ? Merci !
  7. Would this one fit on our cars ? I got 4speed hurst https://classicautomotiveltd.com/products/1970-mustang-hurst-4-speed-shift-boot-daniel-carpenter?_pos=1&_sid=9ae06d9ec&_ss=r
  8. Updated ! Machine shop guy agreed to come by to my home to bring the engine back to his shop to redo the works. He said it is less works for him to rebuild the engine and re-balance the crankshaft than machine a damper to fit.
  9. You re seems to be right, according to summit they are both 28oz (cant find this info anywhere else) Why did he told me 50 from the shop :S
  10. So i bring my 351C short block to a local machine shop to get it done. They told me the harmonic balancer is crap and i need to buy a new one ... im ok with that, they are the professionals so they buy a new one. Few months later, when i get the engine, i started to build the rest of the engine. Just before putting the heads, i realize i cant bring the rotating assy to TDC on the damper pointer. A quick search on the internet, and i realize those guys buy a Windsor harmonic balancer, which is quite different than a Cleveland. Windsor have 3 bolts and 28oz, vs a cleveland that got a 4 bolts and
  11. So im bringing this thread again. I buy a new fuel tank and was about to put back the fuel vapor separator. There is 3 notch in the fuel vapor separator, the tank only have 2 notch, so wtf ??? Should i grind a notch on the fuel vapor separator, i guess so ...
  12. The area on the plate, where the water used to flow, dig a groove of 60% of the plate thickness. I dont want to re-used it.
  13. My timing cover is too rusted. Im looking for replacement, which is rare. Summit got this one at 130$ https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ses-5-65-04-201/overview/?retaillocation=int I also find this company on eBay, AT Racing World, and it is only 60$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351C-Cleveland-Zinc-Steel-Timing-Cover-with-Seal/352183047826?epid=16004737455&hash=item51ffbed692:g:cxcAAOSwyGZaBCDA&vxp=mtr Anybody have ever buyed the last one ? Its lot cheaper than summit.
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