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erikroy57

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Everything posted by erikroy57

  1. Hey guys, Today won't be for asking questions, but more to share my weekend find. My father used to have this yellow/black heavily modified '73 for about 20 years before selling it in 1995. I see an add last Monday with a similar car, only to found out that she was still alive, 20 minutes from my home. I pay a visit to the guy, really friendly man, that decide to keep it finally.
  2. Thanks guys ! So if i understand correctly, since i dont have a/c, i need 2 port ? On the side, it goes to Power Brake, on the top, the big one goes to the carburator ?
  3. Hi guys, What is that fitting that is supposed to be installed here (rubber plug installed for the moment) The car is a '73 Mach 1 351C 2V M/T Thanks !
  4. Hi guys, me again with another issue ! I buy my Mustang with an issue that i need to fix now. The bottom of the wiper arm is resting on the windshield and it has all scratch the window. What can cause this ? Does anybody ever got this issue ? I replace the wiper arm with another used from another car, still same issue. Thanks ! -erik
  5. Ah thanks a lot guys, this made a lot of sense now I have a 1.500'' yoke, on a RUG AV1. For what i can read, its C/R 15000 or 15002, and as per Hemikiller i guess C/R stand for Chicago Rahwide. I will order a National 470059 with the Mayhem puller, Thanks !
  6. Hi guys, I have an oil leak just around the slip yoke in the transmission tailhousing. My question is, where can i found the seal replacement part, and how do i replace it ? The seal i bought doesn't look like the one on the car at all. On the picture below, i remove the driveshaft/yoke assy. Thanks ! -erik
  7. Have you ever find the issue, im afraid i hit the same problem ?
  8. Finally received my new starter solenoid, to replace my default solenoid (that was also brand new). Both Ford solenoid. So i put the new one, and here we go, first time i ride the car since since 2016 when i bought it. Thanks a lot for all the help !!
  9. Hi Don, here is what i found. I completely unplug the big green connector from the end of the harness to the fuse box under the dash. On the starter solenoid, i unplug the ‘’I’’ (green-red) connector (S, red-blue still connected). So now the coil do not heated anymore. If i reconnect the ‘’I’’, the coil is starting to heat heavily. does that mean that my brand new starter solenoid is broken ?
  10. Thanks for all the answers, really appreciated. Yes, i do have the 3 gauges in the center of the dash. Now my real issue is, that as soon as i connect the battery, the coil is getting heavily hot. Note that the keys are not in the switch, they are in my pockets. What is wrong ???
  11. Hi, Im working hard to rebuild a car i buy in pieces. Im pretty sure I wired correctly all the 4 post of the starter solenoid Left: Bat + S: Red with Blue stripe I: Red with green stripe Right: Starter My main concern is regarding the 2 yellow wires. From below picture, A is coming from the alternator. B is coming from the harness under the hood. Where should they be connected ?? Merci !
  12. Hi, I remove my clusters to do some cleanup and maintenance, and i came across this green connector, that was not connected anywhere. The wiring come from the top of the dash, any idea what it should be connected to ? Merci !
  13. Would this one fit on our cars ? I got 4speed hurst https://classicautomotiveltd.com/products/1970-mustang-hurst-4-speed-shift-boot-daniel-carpenter?_pos=1&_sid=9ae06d9ec&_ss=r
  14. Updated ! Machine shop guy agreed to come by to my home to bring the engine back to his shop to redo the works. He said it is less works for him to rebuild the engine and re-balance the crankshaft than machine a damper to fit.
  15. You re seems to be right, according to summit they are both 28oz (cant find this info anywhere else) Why did he told me 50 from the shop :S
  16. So i bring my 351C short block to a local machine shop to get it done. They told me the harmonic balancer is crap and i need to buy a new one ... im ok with that, they are the professionals so they buy a new one. Few months later, when i get the engine, i started to build the rest of the engine. Just before putting the heads, i realize i cant bring the rotating assy to TDC on the damper pointer. A quick search on the internet, and i realize those guys buy a Windsor harmonic balancer, which is quite different than a Cleveland. Windsor have 3 bolts and 28oz, vs a cleveland that got a 4 bolts and 50oz. I called the shop, they expressed that they are sorry, and then order the new one. Now, the concern i have, is that he has telling me that, on the process of rebuilding the engine in their shop, they put the crank shaft with the damper on a calibrating machine to ensure the crank is good. Now since the weight of the cleveland damper is quite different, this calibration is completely f***ed off. He said he will have to machine the new damper to reduce to 28 oz to give my an equivalent damper to what the crank is calibrated to now. Im then guessing i will received a crappy balancer, without the black anodize finish and with crappy tdc marks. What should i do, and what crappy results will i get with all this ? 1st balancer (wrong one): PB1009ST 2nd balancer (right one): PB1082ST
  17. So im bringing this thread again. I buy a new fuel tank and was about to put back the fuel vapor separator. There is 3 notch in the fuel vapor separator, the tank only have 2 notch, so wtf ??? Should i grind a notch on the fuel vapor separator, i guess so ...
  18. The area on the plate, where the water used to flow, dig a groove of 60% of the plate thickness. I dont want to re-used it.
  19. My timing cover is too rusted. Im looking for replacement, which is rare. Summit got this one at 130$ https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ses-5-65-04-201/overview/?retaillocation=int I also find this company on eBay, AT Racing World, and it is only 60$ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351C-Cleveland-Zinc-Steel-Timing-Cover-with-Seal/352183047826?epid=16004737455&hash=item51ffbed692:g:cxcAAOSwyGZaBCDA&vxp=mtr Anybody have ever buyed the last one ? Its lot cheaper than summit.
  20. Im bringing back this thread, im also searching for the mesh material in the separator. Mine is still there, but the material is falling aparts, and these little granules falls in the fuel tank. So anybody knows which material it is ? Otherwise i may use stainless steel wool as Don said, if i can find it somewhere.
  21. Thanks chuck ! What is the difference between 1 1/8 bar from addco @ 220$ and scott drake @ 120$ ? Price from summit.
  22. Hi guys, I bougt a '73 H code and the guy previously used it for drag race. He removed the engine and sold it with some missing parts. Now the cars have broken air shocks with leafs in the rear, and adjustable drag shock in the front and i have no sway bar at all (front & back) So im gonna buy 4 new shocks, and the front sway bar. I read forums in here and it seems to says that the rear sway bar is a good addition, is it ? What hardware should i get ? My reading seems to go for the KYB gas shocks with addco bars, which size should i get ? Its a weekend drive, not track or drag.
  23. Alright guys, im going to drill for the anchor of the retractor, can somebody gives me dimensions A & B in the pictures below ? upload images
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